https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

• The story behind her FA of Mad Lib (9a / 5.14d)
• Sending Dolby Surround (9a+ / 5.15a) after a hold broke
• Trading beta with Will Bosi
• Taking her strength and power endurance to a new level
• Handling send pressure on a limit project
• The challenge of grading the hardest climbs
• A case for doing easier volume
• The most efficient way to build endurance
• Being featured in Reel Rock

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Pressure at the Limit 00:24 Mikaela Returns 01:27 Big Sends Preview 04:03 Lyme Disease Detour 07:10 Catching Up and Moving 08:50 Vermont Bouldering Tear 09:53 Madlib First Ascent 15:22 Jaws and Size Beta 16:25 Dolby Surround Backstory 19:04 Two Months on Dolby 21:44 Sponsor Break 24:41 Training for Dolby 27:08 Send Day Mindset 32:50 Grading and Consensus 35:50 Grades Versus Inspiration 39:20 Breakthrough Grades Memories 42:21 Colorado Plans And Technique 44:58 Tactics And Smart Volume 45:55 Intentional Climber App 47:47 Anti Style And Beta Sharing 50:34 Training For Route Season 51:48 Endurance Sessions Explained 55:22 Madness Cave Prep Tips 58:32 Mindset Journaling Progress 01:02:13 Real Rock Feature Reveal 01:06:46 Bonus Episode And Patreon 01:11:00 Host Red Session Update 01:16:18 Thanks Sponsors And Wrap

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

• Recap of August goals (hits and misses)

• Struggling like crazy with the new training load

• How I achieved 18% more completed workouts

• Squamish recap

• Getting on the fall 12c projie for the first time

• Technology I'm using to hack my training

• Can a vegetarian use collagen?

• September goals

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

I hope your training and climbing are going great! 

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

Jonathan Siegrist, Alannah Yip, Mike Foley, and Tyler Thompson sit down at the Arc'teryx Academy to explore:

• Memorable climbing experiences (and epics) in Squamish
• The process of athlete-designer collaboration for gear design
• The future of hard sport climbing
• When will we see a 5.15d (9c) repeat or 5.16a (9c+) FA
• Why America is falling behind on hard sport climbing
• What went into Arc'teryx's brand new sport harness, the Lithos SL
• Gates in or out

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Arc’teryx: Check out the new Lithos SL harness; the lightest and most comfortable harness I've ever tied into. Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 
• Intentional Climber: Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for busy climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right):

00:00 Intro

00:24 Ryan Returns From Squamish

01:10 Meet The Panel

02:18 Puppy Distraction

04:47 Live Show Kickoff

04:59 Enormocast Origins

06:23 Old School Harnesses

10:03 Suffering And Progress

11:41 Alannah First Gear Story

13:53 Mike Foley Squamish Intro

15:34 Designing Lithos SL

19:31 Mike Path To Arc'teryx

21:34 Harness Giveaway Moment

22:41 Future Of Sport Climbing

25:13 Non Gendered Fit System

29:31 Bring Out Tyler And J Star

31:00 Clinic And First Leads

32:11 Squamish Memories Grand Wall

35:41 Squamish Epic Stories

37:49 Harness Design Testing

41:57 Minimalist Sport Rack

46:06 Future of Hard Climbing

52:15 Route Development Debate

54:07 Audience Q and Harnesses

59:22 Squamish Trip Recap

01:00:46 Bouldering and Slab Lessons

01:05:10 Multi Pitch Humble Pie

01:09:23 Sport Day and Film Night

01:12:04 Fun Over Grades

01:13:46 Thanks and Wrap Up

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

• Her recent 5.14R trad ascent
• How to care about a goal without losing oneself in the process
• Pushing to the edge of what was healthy
• Is projecting “fun”? 
• Her emotional low point and what turned it around
• How her friends helped her to send
• The highs, lows, and "what's nexts" after the send 

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Hazel Returns and Big Send

03:51 Tea Talk Warmup

06:38 Route Name and Welsh Roots

11:38 E Grades and Risk Explained

14:23 Postpartum Performance Context

18:23 Motivation and Finding Your Why

24:18 Sponsors and App Updates

28:08 Goals Without Obsession

32:48 Costs Boundaries and Motherhood

36:56 Project Life Balance

39:18 Progress And Pressure

41:48 Training App Break

43:40 Projecting Fun Debate

47:09 Weather And Low Points

49:47 Route Beta Breakdown

54:04 Send Day Story

58:39 Mindset And Trying Hard

01:02:37 After The Send

01:09:45 Strong Mind Resources

01:11:20 Bonus Episode Pitch

01:14:02 Host Training Update

01:17:30 Final Thanks And Wrap

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• What is Horseshoe Hell
• 12, 24, and 36 hours of Hell
• Why aren't there more injries
• How to qualify in different areas
• Biggest mistakes noobs make at Hell
• What Chris and I need to do to survive 
• Pro tactics to save skin, energy, and sanity
• What to expect before, during, and after the event
• The most important thing: choosing the right costume

Check out The Ground Up Podcast wherever you get your pods, and follow their adventures on IG https://www.instagram.com/listentogroundup/

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 
• Rhino Skin Solutions: Take care of your skin, send harder! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. 

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Why Hell Feels Grim

00:51 Meet The Guests

08:52 Event Basics Explained

10:17 Vibe Costumes And Culture

14:16 Rules Points And Qualifying

18:33 The Ranch Layout And Rock

28:10 Prep Mindset And Goals

33:44 Training Systems And Stashes

38:39 Old Man Strength Training

40:19 Tactics Over Training

41:08 Shoes for 24 Hours

43:58 Prewalk and Partner Sync

46:54 Fast Transitions No Retie

49:43 Safety and Code Words

54:02 Sponsor Break Skin App

57:11 Route Difficulty Strategy

01:02:47 Rack and Permadraw Beta

01:05:49 Lead Swap and Efficiency

01:08:47 Pacing Bonks and Howls

01:10:58 Food Water Caffeine Plan

01:13:51 Food Stash Strategy

01:15:19 Dialed Systems and Ropes

01:16:40 Stashing Timing and Labels

01:18:59 Darkest Hours and Bonks

01:22:31 Night Gear and Headlamps

01:24:59 Logging Routes and Weather

01:26:56 Crowds Etiquette and Waiting

01:29:22 Taping Fingers and Gloves

01:31:21 Support Crew Rules

01:32:52 Final Hour Sprint

01:35:39 Post Finish Recovery Party

01:39:46 Wrap Up Sponsors and Training

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

• Documenting the cutting edge of climbing performance
• Being with Janja for every attempt on Bibliographie (9b+ / 5.15c)
• Dirt bagging days
• The evolution of climbing media
• What it takes to make it as a climbing photographer / filmmaker
• The send footage of Tommy on Meltdown that can’t be shared (yet)
• Exploring his incredible films Girl Climber and Strength to Weight
• Is Janja capable of 9c/5.15d?

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.
• Spire Clip: Built to last, built to work every time. Easily hang and remove draws, clip your rope through a pre-hung draw, and snag your rope for the next climb. Purchase just the head or full rig with the carbon fiber pole and use code STRUGGLE for $10 off.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Why Film Struggle

00:26 Meet John Glasberg

03:53 Parenthood And Travel

07:37 Janja And Bibliographie

09:56 Early Climbing Roots

13:28 Dirtbag Year On Road

14:26 Bouldering Breakthrough

18:13 Digital Media Revolution

20:01 Building Louder Than 11

26:18 Creative Hustle Today

27:27 Betting On Stories

33:50 Strength To Weight Origins

35:16 Ethan And Fatherhood

42:06 Sponsor Break And Next Film

46:01 Girl Climber Reflections

47:20 Portaledge Turning Point

51:38 Storytelling Under Pressure

52:57 Chasing Janja Interview

54:28 Why Bibliographie Matters

58:15 Near Misses And Conditions

01:00:47 The Send Day Breakdown

01:03:19 Is This Her Limit

01:07:06 What Makes Janja Great

01:12:51 Future Goals And 9C

01:19:13 Bonus Episode Teaser

01:22:10 Support The Show

01:24:34 Bee Sting Climbing Update

01:27:56 Final Sign Off

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

• Recap of June/July goals (hits and misses)

• Another back injury

• Australia struggles and climbing

• Nate Drolet's new training plan for me

• Exploring the maximum tolerable dose of training

• A technique "a-ha moment" on the Treadwall

• August goals

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

Download Intentional Climber on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock $100 of free coaching plans, plus a secret discount.

Have an awesome month!

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

Father, husband, computer programmer, and weekend warrior Jeff Ash explores:

• Climbing in the 80s with Matt Samet
• Quitting climbing for 32 years 
• Ninja training crossover 
• Being more intentional with training 
• Focusing on technique
• The power of reflection and journaling 
• How to avoid gym distractions 
• Training indoors for just a few outdoor days
• Intuitive eating and forming a healthier relationship with food
• Drill work to improve movement
• The benefit of “coaching” our friends 

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Low Hanging Gains

00:56 Meet Jeff Ashe

09:53 Jeffs Climbing Roots

15:18 Life Break From Climbing

18:01 Return After 32 Years

22:59 Old School Ethics

23:50 Rebuilding At 50 Plus

26:02 Arcteryx Academy Plug

27:15 Shoe Gear Talk

27:43 Scarpa Shoe Picks

29:10 Software Engineer Origins

30:12 Tech Then and Now

32:03 Houston Gym Routine

34:04 Intentional Technique Gains

39:16 Planning Sessions and Drills

43:30 Outdoor Goals and Route Style

50:08 Intuitive Eating Coaching

54:57 Root Causes and Habit Fixes

58:40 Journaling Patterns in Training

01:00:33 Exaggerate Hip Technique

01:02:45 Drills and Coaching Tools

01:04:29 Film Your Sessions

01:07:38 What to Look For

01:12:12 Board Video Comparisons

01:13:24 Train Hard Then Have Fun

01:14:44 Summer Endurance Goals

01:17:10 Community Feedback and App

01:22:02 Jet Lag and Australia Trip

01:25:19 Back Injury and Reset

01:27:01 Training Plan Ahead

01:28:45 Closing Motivation

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

• His journey to sending 9a (5.14d)
• Managing a string of mystery injuries
• Being told he needed to quit climbing forever
• The route Adam Ondra recommended to him
• His off-the-wall training to build endurance
• Why pull-ups are pointless
• Finger training he did to get better at sport climbing
• YouTube projects (and struggles)
• His secret reality tv project

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Shoulder Scare Cold Open

00:23 Welcome Back Emil Returns

03:14 Swedish Place Names Banter

03:56 Dad Portrait No Eyebrows

05:35 First 9A Goal Talk

09:50 Injury Streak And Misdiagnosis

13:30 Why We Climb Soul Searching

17:36 Rehab Trench No Pullups

19:35 Straight Arm Board Lessons

29:14 Arco Project Picked With Ondra

31:37 First Sessions Reality Check

34:13 Off Route Endurance Training

39:23 Resting Skills Kneebars Mastery

41:58 Sport Skills Boost Bouldering

43:25 Training Timeline and Shoulder

44:17 Pullups Versus Climbing Skill

46:37 Cardio Base for Climbers

48:15 App Break Intentional Climber

50:17 Finger Training and Hangboard

52:58 Personal Strengths and Superpowers

54:47 Fear of Falling Mindset

57:57 Next Goals and Injury Risk

01:03:59 YouTube Workload and Big Island

01:10:08 Research Projects and Physical 100

01:12:39 Fantasy Climbing League Explained

01:17:43 Wrap Up and Host Training Update

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong

• How to test critical force 
• Why it matters
• My critical force test
• Why MVC is still king
• How critical force tells us what to train 
• Improving power endurance on and off wall
• The big change I’m making to my training now
• What boulderers should focus on kill
• Why so many pros don’t test finger strength 

Dr. Tyler Nelson's Critical Force Field Test is on the Intentional Climber app! Test your CF and get instant training recommendations from Tyler based on the results.

Here are Tyler's other episodes to check out:

• https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-on-finger-strength/
• https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/expert-analysis-training-with-dr-tyler-nelson/
• https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-power-with-dr-tyler-nelson-free-preview/
• https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-pro-clinic-on-building-endurance-for-bouldering-and-sport-climbing/
• https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-stronger-wrists-stronger-climbing/
• https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-dr-tyler-nelson-on-how-to-maintain-and-gain-strength-beyond-age-35-free/

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Critical Force Teaser 00:22 Show Intro and Focus 01:39 Critical Force Explained 05:20 Host Updates Australia 06:47 Meet Dr Tyler Nelson 08:05 Testing Protocol Breakdown 11:07 Interpreting Your Numbers 15:27 Energy Systems and Plateau 18:23 Testing Method Matters 23:58 Who Should Use This 25:43 Arc'teryx Academy Ad 26:59 What Results Mean Training 31:42 Route Goal Flower Power 33:28 Training Interventions Percentages 41:49 No Gear Testing Options 43:49 Treadwall for Endurance 45:28 How To Train From Metrics 47:38 Critical Force Takeaways 48:57 Power Endurance Priority 50:28 Training Tools Setup 52:09 Active Rest Explained 53:39 80 vs 60 Percent Blocks 56:11 Retesting and Progress 57:35 Elite Curve and Technique 01:01:47 Why Pros Skip Testing 01:04:00 More Quality Attempts 01:09:31 Repeater Protocol Details 01:11:41 In Season Projecting 01:14:52 Peaking for Fall Season 01:19:57 Outro and App Protocol 01:23:49 My Current Training Plan 01:27:25 Final Wrap Up

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Elite climber Adam Ondra explores:

• Flashing multiple V15 (8C) boulders
• How he’s stronger than ever at 33
• The new training tools he’s using 
• The truth about his "secret" crimp grips 
• Going for V17 (and perhaps V18?)
• His weird low-intensity warmup for V15 flash attempts 
• Training solo vs with a crew 
• Is anyone today capable of 9c+ 5.16a

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 App Announcement

01:15 Welcome Adam Ondra

03:46 Life in Arco Italy

05:39 Smith Rock Stories

06:57 Retiring From Comps

08:49 Flash Mindset Explained

12:20 Training Tools and Crew

16:49 Board Climbing Breakdown

19:09 Sponsor Break Arc'teryx

20:52 Sponsor Break Sendurex

22:35 Strength Testing Habits

24:23 Grip Hacks and Thumb

32:09 Flash vs Project Potential

35:02 App Break Intentional

37:04 Mindset for Flash Attempts

38:47 Flash Warmup Routine

40:48 Using Beta Videos Wisely

43:37 Solo vs Crew Training

46:30 Regimen vs Flexibility

51:39 Sport Climbing Goals

53:49 Arco New Route Potential

55:41 Will 9C Get Repeated

59:20 What Makes 9C Plus

01:03:32 Staying Psyched Climbing

01:06:54 Bonus Episode Promo

01:09:45 Host Training Update

01:11:13 Intentional Climber App

01:14:29 Final Wrap Up

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• Process goals vs outcome goals
• The power of journaling and reflection
• Using thoughtful goals to mitigate fear of failure 
• Finding your big Why
• Is grade chasing a “bad” goal?
• Intrinsic vs extrinsic goals 
• Setting S.M.A.R.T. goals 

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The free version of this Pro Clinic is being brought to you at zero cost thanks to:

• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

-

Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial):

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Growth Mindset Hook 00:24 Pro Clinic Returns 00:47 Intentional Climber App 02:36 Why Goals Need Purpose 03:56 Meet Hazel and Angus 05:05 Mallorca Retreat Recap 06:27 Trip Goals and Intentions 08:10 Hazel on Goal Setting 10:44 Angus Evolves His Goals 12:30 Meltdown Project Tactics 18:23 Outcome vs Process Goals 23:53 Find Your North Star 27:09 Ryan Shares His Why 32:17 App Break Intentional Climber 34:48 Digging Deeper Than Progress 44:19 Finding Your Why Support 45:47 Strongmind Resources Explained 46:24 Mindset Frames Growth Mindset 49:24 Bad Why External Values 54:12 From North Star To Goals 55:44 Process Vs Outcome Goals 01:01:05 Intrinsic Vs Extrinsic Motivation 01:07:35 Staying Intrinsically Focused 01:11:35 SMART Goals Without Overload 01:16:35 Distill Your Why Mantra 01:18:19 Wrap Up Links Newsletter 01:21:22 Host Reflection North Star 01:26:24 Intentional Climber App Updates 01:28:09 Final Thanks And Support

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter and Michael Martin for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Elite climber Noah Wheeler explores:

• Specific training for Burden
• The dab ascent and what happened after
• Is Burden really V17?
• The change that unlocked the send
• Board climbing vs hang boarding
• Mindset tools to lock in for a send
• What Daniel Woods taught him 
• Half crimp vs full crimp 
• The next V17 on his list
• The happiness advantage

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Secret App Launch 02:23 Noah Wheeler Intro 06:33 Goals and Process 11:51 Evolving Through Struggle 18:18 Board Training Origins 21:15 Board Sessions and Volume 24:05 Intentional Climber Break 26:07 Rehab and Burden Prep 31:10 The Dab and Redemption 36:24 Dab Send Debate 37:25 Grading Burden Reality 42:10 V17 Or Downgrade 43:17 New Beta Breakdown 47:12 Micro Beta Anchors 50:20 Arc'teryx Harness Spot 52:06 Nutrition Calorie Wakeup 53:08 Carbs Protein Caffeine 57:11 Tactics Trip Mistakes 59:44 Footwork Pull Away 01:02:39 Grip Strength Weakness 01:05:23 Finger Strength Metrics 01:05:59 Projecting Mindset Phases 01:09:52 Pre Send Mental Crux 01:11:36 Embodiment Tools 01:15:50 Happiness Advantage 01:19:35 What’s Next Plans 01:20:53 Board Style Dreams 01:22:55 We Will Rock Vision 01:25:24 Wrap Up Bonus Plug 01:28:00 Host App Pitch 01:29:28 Climbing Reflections 01:31:59 Final Thanks Outro

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

• Recap of May goals (hits and misses)
• Finding flow and fun outdoors
• Breaking down my endurance training plan
• Results from my critical force test
• How I'm going to maintain strength and power
• A smack in the face regarding my technique
• Listener questions
• June goals

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

Download Intentional Climber on Google Play or the App Store and use code LAUNCHCREW to unlock $300 of free coaching plans, plus a secret discount (ends June 5th).

Have an awesome month!

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• Being naturally powerful but struggling with endurance 
• Managing send anxiety and fear of failure
• A powerful tool to stay present on a climb 
• The untapped potential of breath work 
• Forcing seasonality with training 
• Using hips as a fifth limb
• The "pact" that led to a quantum leap
• Covering historic ascents in the new ACJ

Join the AAC by July 1st to get your copy of the American Climbing Journal (amongst other awesome perks): https://americanalpineclub.org/

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Anxiety After Belief

00:24 Meet Hannah Provost

06:04 Climbing Origins Indiana

09:19 AAC Work Life Balance

10:40 Boulderer Wants Sport

13:19 Grades And Struggle

14:03 Doubt Cycles Tactics

20:28 Breathwork And Focus

24:08 Seasonal Training Blocks

26:20 Coach Nate Hip Power

29:46 Endurance Sessions 4x4

31:42 Hips As Fifth Limb

33:52 Hips Into Training

34:40 Treadwall Leg Drive

36:05 Beginner Mindset Reset

37:36 The 5.12 Pact

40:37 Exposure Over Sending

43:53 Next Goals Big Papa

46:42 What Is The ACJ

49:28 Stories From The Journal

54:45 AAC Membership Perks

57:31 Hostels And Wrap Up

59:07 Host Takeaways And Links

01:03:35 Training Update And Goodbye

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

Elite climber Tyler Thompson explores:

• The process of becoming a pro climber 
• Struggling with training consistency
• Preparing for La Rambla (5.15a)
• His Spain sending spree 
• How to make climb days worth more
• Struggling with performance anxiety 
• An epic last-day-last-go send of Era Vella
• How to trick yourself into sending

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Arc’teryx: Check out the new Lithos SL harness featuring Warp Strength Technology and fully customizable sizing for an ultra-light sport climbing fit. Build yours at Arcteryx.com 
• PhysiVantage: Try SendureX to improve your power endurance and recover faster between attempts. I love it! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Endurance Mindset Teaser 00:28 Meet Tyler Thompson 03:28 Vegas Base And Background 06:09 From Summer Camp To Youth Team 08:10 Going Full Time Climbing 11:31 What Struggle Means 16:20 Training Balance Outdoors Vs Gym 20:35 Spain Prep And La Rambla 25:39 Endurance Work And Self Assessment 33:11 Nutrition And Recovery Habits 37:23 Tactics Learning And Repetition 41:02 Finding Efficiency And Energy Leaks 42:49 Fresh Beta Experiments 43:19 More Tries More Learning 44:55 Evolving Beta Near Send 45:41 Inventing a New Sequence 49:40 Choose Moves You Love 50:27 Favorite Move Spotlight 51:52 Southern Smoke Send Story 53:59 Remembering Projects Past 54:50 Scarpa Shoe Shoutout 56:15 Performance Anxiety on Redpoints 57:22 Resting and Switching Gears 01:00:42 Era Vella Injury Miracle Send 01:06:10 Trying When Tired Works 01:08:59 Next Projects and Finn Cave 01:10:52 Trips and Dreamcatcher Goals 01:13:59 Finger Rehab Reality Check 01:15:06 Wrap Up and Bonus Episode 01:18:18 Host Training Update 01:22:08 Final Thoughts and Signoff

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

• Are old school climbers stronger than modern climbers?
• What has contributed most to the progression of hard climbing? 
• What will the ‘board generation’ mean for outdoor climbs?
• The future of board technology and specificity 
• Will there be highball gyms?
• The future of ultra-adjustable walls
• How high can grades go?
• What is the ideal board angle?
• What will be the evolution of climbing comps?
• Two things gyms are sleeping on right now

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up boards. I’m training on the Homewall Full Ride, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo!
• Asana: Whether you're looking to deck inside or out, Asana has got your landing. Incredible pad systems and crash pads, made by climbers who love what they do, and do it really friggin well. Use code STRUGGLE to score 15% off crash pads and 5% off your pad system!

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Modular Wall Teaser

00:26 CWA Live Podcast Intro

03:48 Panel Setup and Goals

04:19 Ryan Training Breakthrough

06:07 Panelist Origin Stories

10:15 Are Climbers Stronger Now

13:26 Tools Driving Progress

15:50 Future of Training Boards

19:42 Gyms in 10 to 50 Years

23:33 Futuristic Walls and Replicas

24:01 Modular Holds Vision

24:42 Adjustable Walls Future

25:45 AI Route Setting Fears

26:18 Making Climbing Accessible

28:14 Pro Grades Next Decade

29:27 Dylan On Grade Progression

31:08 Boards Getting Steeper

32:16 Pro Climbing League Hype

33:59 Skys The Limit

35:08 Host Outro And Cyborg Aid

37:58 Treadwalls For Endurance

40:56 Adult Classes And Leagues

49:58 Intentional Climber Updates

51:22 Final Send Off

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

Climbing Coach Eric Hörst joins to discuss:

• How to fix energy leaks
• The mental side of endurance
• Traits of an efficient climber
• What not to do when you grab a bad hold
• How to manage the internal critic
• The physiology of endurance
• Programming an endurance phase
• To run or not to run
• What to change in order to hit peak

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Energy Leaks Overview 00:24 Spring Update and Guest Intro 01:31 Endurance Goals Madness Cave 03:22 Zooming Out Endurance Masterclass 04:33 Bouldering vs Routes Long Term 11:04 Rope Time and Volume Basics 18:16 Sponsor Break 21:06 Technique Fixes Quiet Feet 24:49 Pace and Internal Dialogue 33:48 Fear Falling and Efficiency 40:53 Tools Timeline and Training Plan 42:44 Aerobic vs Anaerobic Systems 46:25 Aerobic vs Anaerobic Engine 48:35 Three Pillars of Endurance 52:02 Six Month Base Building 55:51 Weekly Training Blueprint 58:42 Zone Two Climbing Intensity 01:04:30 Lactate Myths and Oxygen Debt 01:08:29 Three Day Schedule Options 01:11:52 Strength Balance and Injury Proofing 01:16:29 Peak Month Training Shift 01:18:46 Choosing the Goal Route 01:20:07 Host Wrap and Training Plan 01:22:53 Sponsors and Patreon Thanks 01:24:19 Final Sign Off

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

Elite climber and coach Neil Gresham explores:

• The thing coaches don't talk about
• Turning life stress into climbing fuel
• How he trained Tim Emmett to send 14d / 9a
• The most impactful training modalities
• Why it’s good that most of us don’t train like pros
• His low inflammation nutritional breakthrough
• Technique pitfalls and fixes
• Why having kids can level up our climbing
• Chris Sharma‘s winning mindset

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Psych High Time Low 00:28 Meet Coach Neil 04:39 Podcast Format Plan 06:19 Struggle Origins 10:47 Life Stress And Grief 15:34 Ebb Flow Training 23:14 Climber Or Coach 24:22 Masterclass Legacy 27:08 Sponsors And Patreon 29:29 Training Strength Battle 34:03 Building Strength Plans 38:52 Tim Vs Dusty Coaching 43:41 Training Load Templates 45:07 Stop Copying Elites 47:07 Quality Over Quantity 47:51 Recovery Days Matter 49:20 Collagen Sponsor Break 50:40 Nutrition Recovery Reboot 52:13 Low Inflammation Shift 55:03 Cut Booze Sugar Wheat 57:29 Carbs For Sleep Recovery 01:00:25 Nutrition Burnout Warning 01:05:14 Periodized Eating Cycle 01:09:49 Technique Versus Strength 01:13:02 Mindful Warmup Drills 01:18:48 Repeats Mirror Angle Hacks 01:23:36 Outdoor Project Tactics 01:25:03 Timing Peak And Conditions 01:27:04 Maintenance Training Diagnostics 01:28:08 Quality Over Volume Peak 01:28:57 Simulate Project Conditions 01:29:49 Avoid Project Burnout 01:33:32 Kids And Mindset Shift 01:34:09 Learn From Chill Crushers 01:35:39 Obsession Reset Lessons 01:37:11 Want It But Let Go 01:39:05 Tim's Meltdown Breakthrough 01:42:45 Modeling Calm At Crag 01:44:36 Belief Unlocks Grades 01:46:47 Conditions Can Lie 01:50:05 Coaching Confidence Hack 01:57:19 Stop Overthinking Redpoints 01:59:10 Work With Neil Gresham 02:01:31 Wrap Up And Bonus Plug

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Adventurer and Author, Alastair Humphreys, explores:

• Why humans crave adventure 
• Easy ways to create and embrace discomfort
• An adventure anyone can do this weekend
• The magic ingredient is uncertainty 
• Leaving a positive trace
• Environmental handprint vs footprint 
• Our favorite books on nature
• His new book, Unwilded
• Shifting Baseline Syndrome
• The incredible benefit of 15 mins in nature

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Honnold Foundation: Bringing solar energy to marginalized communities around the world. Learn more and support their incredible work with a monthly donation at HonnoldFoundation.org

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Big Adventure Question

00:32 Earth Day Introduction

03:03 Meet Alastair Humphreys

06:00 Struggle And Comfort

10:05 Defining Adventure

13:53 Micro Adventures Explained

16:25 Micro Adventure Mindset Shift

19:33 Violin Trip Uncertainty

22:58 Earth Day Partner Spotlight

26:13 Solo Versus Group Micro

29:00 Backyard Adventure Starter

31:56 Pay Attention Tell It

34:51 Bad Adventuring Ethics

36:38 Leave Positive Trace

40:11 Handprint Over Footprint

41:23 Personal Positive Actions

43:10 Type Two Fun Stories

47:46 Fifteen Minute Nature

51:11 Nature Books Rabbit Hole

54:02 Unwinding From Screens

57:55 Politicians Need Camping

01:01:09 Next Adventures Ahead

01:02:55 Earth Day Wrap Up

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

In this episode of the Weekend Warrior series, amateur climber Chris Martin joins to discuss:

• Early days developing at The Red
• Bolting some of the most iconic routes
• FA of my proudest sport send, The Force
• Quitting climbing due to work and family
• The struggle of restarting the climbing journey
• Going from 5.11 to 5.13 in his 40's
• Training up power in his 50's
• Endurance training via Tyler Nelson

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Basement Interview Setup

03:33 Meet Chris Martin

04:34 First Climbing Days

06:08 First Red River Epic

09:07 Improvised Gear Era

11:40 Rapid Grade Progression

13:20 Porter Crew Origins

15:30 Motherlode Discovery

17:39 Bolting First Routes

19:32 Undertow Cleaning Battles

20:43 Omaha Beach Beginnings

22:11 Team Wilson and Thirteens

24:17 Flower Power Project

25:39 Sponsor Break

28:29 Ryan’s Route Overlap

31:11 Training and All Weather

34:59 Boca and Route Names

36:35 The Force and Dark Side

38:24 Mossy Wall Beta

38:44 The Force Grade Debate

42:42 Sharp Side Route Dev

44:01 Life Break And Triathlon

46:45 Gym Comeback In 2015

49:30 Rebuilding To Thirteens

50:53 Moonboard Power Sessions

55:05 Endurance For Season

58:44 Recovery And Retirement

01:02:33 Project Process Outdoors

01:09:56 Training Takeaways

01:14:17 Wrap Up And Next Goals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

If you'd like to train with Kevin, you can reach him at training@kiltergrips.com

I'm on spring break vacation with the fam and not supposed to be working, so I'm going to go bury my kids in the sand and eat my bodyweight in Oreos now. Hope you're having an awesome day!

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

Coach Nate Drolet joins me to break down the big send, including:

• Timeline of days on the proj
• Puppydog vs Bulldog
• Major difference makers
• Physical prep
• Mental prep
• Was this limit?
• What's next 

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up board. It’s what I’m training on at home, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo!
• Asana Pads: The best crash pads and indoor pad systems in the game! Incredible designs and best-in-class customer care. If you plan to fall, fall on these. Use code STRUGGLE to score 5% off your pad system or 15% off crash pads!

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

Check out Max's photos: https://www.instagram.com/mjbarron/

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter and Michael Martin for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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• His early days with Alan Watts 
• Moving to Vegas for year-round climbing 
• Climbing 30 5.14s after age 40
• Climbing three 5.14s (so far) in his 60s
• Customizing training for specific projects
• Developing the try hard part of the brain
• The benefit of doing a very big training day 
• How to train on a Treadwall 
• Most common mistakes he sees climbers make
• Having no F’s to give 
• The Pain Box

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter and Michael Martin for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Am I Too Old 00:47 Meet Bill Ramsey 03:54 Early Days With Watts 05:28 Eugene Training Era 07:27 Smith Rock Revolution 08:51 Red River Return 10:50 Move To Vegas 12:04 Decades Of 514 16:19 Two Very Different 14a 18:20 What Struggle Means 21:12 Sponsor Break Collagen 23:28 Back To Training Talk 26:49 Try Hard Over Minutiae 31:25 Training On Climbing Days 36:35 Big Days More Rest 37:55 Injury Risk Overtraining Myth 40:35 Treadwall Setup Linkups 43:50 Protocols for Red River 46:22 Training Rests Recovery 48:50 Dark Side Stories 50:23 Sponsor Break Ads 53:10 Nutrition Recovery Basics 57:55 Project Tactics Staging 01:02:40 Micro Beta Puzzle Mindset 01:06:04 Warm Up on Project 01:07:54 Rope Solo Projecting 01:08:14 Garage Crux Replicas 01:11:03 DIY Holds And Measurements 01:11:40 Warmup And Rewarmup Plan 01:14:31 Attempts And Rest Timing 01:15:57 Cold Hands Pain Tactics 01:18:10 Aging And Mental Freedom 01:21:24 Arrival Fallacy And Next Goals 01:24:39 Process Over Metrics 01:28:14 Pain Box Explained 01:35:04 Risk And Modern Comfort 01:36:20 Wrap Up And Bonus Tease 01:40:07 Host Training Update 01:42:37 YouTube And Farewell

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• Climbing gym culture of the 90s
• Trends in corporate vs independent gyms
• Which gyms prepare climbers better for real rock
• A case against mega gyms
• A case for mega gyms 
• Will soft gym grades result in mass upgrading of classic outdoor climbs?
• When a local gym closes... and is miraculously saved
• Is pickle ball competitive with climbing?
• How dirtbags can help save indie gyms

-

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Old Gyms vs Mega Gyms 01:37 Rock Sport Closes 03:20 Andrew First Gym Memories 06:35 Chris Early Wall Origins 11:26 DIY Gym Spirit 11:51 Rock Sport and Rock Creation 15:09 Rock Creation Business Model 20:45 How Many Gyms Exist 23:32 Gym Growth and Trends 28:29 Gyms as Outdoor Gateway 32:26 Case for Mega Gyms 36:04 Gym Community Vibes 37:24 Modern Mega Gym Magic 39:12 Corporate Future Hypothetical 40:19 Grades Versus Real Rock 42:48 Setting Ergonomics Limits 44:34 WALL-E Mega Gym Satire 46:44 Surprise Guest Joins 48:21 Saving Rock Sport 50:29 Keeping the Old Soul 56:07 Sandbagging and Grade Plans 58:15 Pickleball and Business 01:01:47 Gym Ownership Reality Check 01:07:44 Support Your Local Gyms

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter and Michael Martin for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• Which grip training pays off most for climbing
• Is a hang board all climbers need?
• How to make a $3 forearm trainer 
• Eccentric vs isometric training
• Why half crimp may not be the best to train
• Minimal edge vs heavier hangs 
• Which grips are weakest for climbers
• Two simple grip exercises to consider adding
• How to program ballistic lifts for a peak phase

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Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial):

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 One Weakness Focus 00:22 Meet Eves Gravel 03:28 Arm Wrestling Basics 05:38 Why He Started 07:36 Climbers Crossover 09:05 What Is Grip Training 11:04 Arm Wrestling Weak Links 13:16 Training Recovery Tradeoffs 14:29 Is Hangboarding Enough 18:16 Grip Sport Implements 21:42 Hand Size And Events 24:44 Wrist Flexion For Climbers 27:44 PVC Pipe Setup 33:09 Patreon Outro And Teaser

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter and Michael Martin for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

Follow Yves on IG @yvesgravelle

Here's the homemade forearm trainer: https://www.instagram.com/p/DUzPN7fDaaL/

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Elite climber Mike Boyd explores:

• The formula for rapid learning 
• His biggest mistake when he was a new climber
• How to get better at failure 
• Avoiding “junk mileage” when learning a new skill
• The 40-minute rule for optimized learning 
• Why coaches don’t like shortcuts (and why we should anyway)
• Stealing knowledge from fellow climbers 
• Trying the Dave McLeod diet
• Refusing to say “I’m too short”

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up boards. I’m training on the Homewall Full Ride, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo!

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Follow Mike on IG @mikeboydvideo and on YT /@mikeboyd and /@mikeboydclimbs

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. A hero indeed!

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Welcome and Learning Dip

00:41 Meet Mike Boyd

04:18 Climbing Setup and Psyche

17:35 Struggle Mindset Origins

27:47 Learning Framework and Breaks

32:57 Training Diary Metrics

33:51 Self Coaching vs Mentors

38:19 Keeping the Psych Alive

41:12 Weekly Climbing Plan

57:25 Nutrition Weight Strategy

01:09:41 Resting Like A Pro

01:10:41 Climbing In Gears

01:14:18 Projecting And Send Blues

01:18:21 Fear Of Falling Tools

01:32:02 Creative Goals And Wrap

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• Pros and Cons of a 7-on 7-off schedule
• Shift work 
• Training without a climbing gym
• Yoga for climbing (and life)
• Getting better because he can’t climb all the time 
• The power of intentionality 
• Overcoming decision fatigue 
• Working with Neil Gresham
• Training pitfalls 
• 25-second hypertrophy hangs 
• The benefit of doing the unsexy stuff 

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. A hero indeed!

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow and @ryandevlinclimbing

Follow Dusty @nothing_but_hardwork

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• Reflecting on his recent Hueco Tanks trip
• Climbing while injured 
• Collecting rejections like Stephen King
• Are gym boulders too tall?
• The problem with "easy" classics
• Advice to his younger self
• Falling 101
• Is Coca-Cola Coffee aid?

If you'd like to set up a consult with Nate, or explore coaching options, hit him up at: njdrolet@gmail.com

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.
• Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up board. It’s what I’m training on at home, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo!

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. A hero indeed!

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

• His rapid ascent from V1 to V16 in just 7 years
• Specific training for Lucid Dreaming 
• Adapting strength for his style 
• Being weak on a 20mm edge
• When to commit to beta on a project
• Learning to control his temper
• Pursuing perfection of movement
• Slowing down the projecting process
• The power of journaling 
• Letting the magic in 

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

• Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up boards. I’m training on the Homewall Full Ride, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo!

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. A hero indeed!

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Introduction to the Struggle Climbing Show

00:31 Meet Ethan Salvo: The Young Phenom

01:16 Ethan's Climbing Journey and Achievements

03:00 The Disappearance of Portable Boulder

03:59 Conversation with Ethan: Climbing Styles and Challenges

08:10 Ethan's Training and Nutrition Insights

36:54 Tactics and Mental Game in Climbing

42:03 Micro Beta and Climbing Style

44:12 Event Horizon: The Hardest Boulder in Canada

45:11 Tactical Insights and Gear Customization

54:51 Mindset and Mental Game in Climbing

01:02:57 The Joy of the Process and Achievement

01:11:29 Journaling and Embracing the Magic

01:22:44 Future Goals and Expanding Horizons

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

In this episode focused on all things wrists, Dr. Tyler Nelson brings the science and application, covering:

• Why there’s been a steady rise of wrist injuries in climbers
• How to train up wrist flexion strength to perform better on slopers 
• The reason bigger holds can be more injurious
• Google won't show you the most common climber injury
• Wrist Wrench vs. Rolling Thunder
• Set and rep scheme for wrist training
• To tape or not to tape?
• Recovery time frames for wrist injuries
• How to return to hard climbing faster after an injury

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And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

Check out Tyler's course on wrist injury and rehab, and his many other fantastic courses: https://www.camp4humanperformance.com/store

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Introduction and Overview

00:27 Welcome and Guest Introduction

00:44 Understanding Wrist Injuries in Climbers

02:56 Personal Experiences and Injury Management

04:32 Training and Strengthening Techniques

46:24 Managing Wrist Injuries in Climbing

47:39 Personal Experiences with Wrist Pain

50:09 Common Wrist Injuries in Climbers

57:48 Recovery and Rehabilitation Strategies

01:15:23 Training Tips and Final Thoughts

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Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

In this Pro Clinic, climbing coach and dyno master Charlie Schreiber explores:

• The 5 pillars of mastering dynos
• The #1 issue that holds climbers back by up to 4 grades
• Beginner dyno training program
• Managing fear of injury
• The power of keeping a dyno journal
• Which specific setups and moves to practice in a gym setting 
• Where to program dyno training within other training and climbing 
• The Japanese chat code for dyno domination
• The specific biomechanics of a dyno and how to optimize each step

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Enter the giveaway! https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/charlie

Work with Charlie: https://www.paradigmclimbing.com/

Follow Charlie: https://www.instagram.com/paradigm_climbing_coaching/

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Introduction and Welcome

00:29 Guest Introduction: Coach Charlie Schreiber

02:43 Charlie's Climbing Philosophy and Rocklands Trip

04:01 The Importance of Patience in Climbing

11:32 Defining Dynamic Climbing and Dynos

13:57 Key Elements for Successful Dynos

18:17 Overcoming Fear and Building Confidence

24:15 Practical Tips for Dino Training

28:49 Falling Practice and Safety

32:45 Advanced Dino Techniques and Variety

34:49 Conclusion and Giveaway Details

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• How to fit climbing sessions into a very busy work and life schedule
• Dealing with injury and setbacks after having kids
• Working with Natasha Barnes on strength training
• Working with coach Matt Pincus on climber training
• The importance of a dialed warm-up for shoulders and fingers
• How she builds endurance even during her busiest seasons
• Working to build back her pyramid with a goal of 13a
• The benefits and drawbacks of having kids at the crag
• How to be a supportive climbing partner to friends who have kids

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up board. It’s what I’m training on at home, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo!

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

Follow Sara on Instagram: @climblikeagirl

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

Anna Hazelnutt is back with another Crag Chat packed with laughs, musings, updates, struggles, beta, and whatever else is on our minds, including:

• The ups and downs of a climbing injury

• Training legs and core

• The rad climbing scene in Colombia

• Surprise guest and Canadian Crusher, Connor Runge

• Training while on a long climbing trip

• Connor's coaching style

• Pros and cons of dating a climber

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THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY:

Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up boards. I’m training on the Homewall Full Ride, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo!

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

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To work with Connor as a coach, hit him up at Project Direct: https://www.projectdirectcoaching.com/connorrunge

Check out Anna’s latest videos on her YT channel: youtube.com/@annahazelnutt 

Check out The Struggle’s latest videos at: youtube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow 

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @annahazelnutt 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Elite climber, Tim Emmett, explores:

• The moments surrounding the send of Era Vella (9a)
• Dealing with relentless failure
• Overcoming countless injuries and setbacks
• 8 years of effort and commitment
• Being his fittest and strongest at age 51
• The invisible costs of taking on a huge project 
• The training breakthrough prescribed by Neil Gresham
• Having a total emotional breakdown 
• The diet change that changed everything
• Letting go of the outcome 
• Skills over strength

Here's Tim's emotional video just after sending the proj: https://www.instagram.com/p/DRH5YN4CEa0/

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up boards. I’m training on the Homewall Full Ride, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo!
• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• Results from my Kilter reassessment
• Improvements in strength and movement
• Struggles in beta and commitment 
• Plans for doubling my hold set
• Going steeper and harder next block
• V8+ projecting schedule 
• Should I set a replica?
• Off-the-wall conditioning plan

Here's the first assessment episode with Kevin

Here's the 90-90 stretch

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Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter. So mega! 

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout. 

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• What 'masters athletes' can do to maintain or build strength
• Why losing strength with age is not inevitable
• How to maintain strong tendons with age
• How to get strong without getting big 
• What younger climbers can do to prep for their older years
• Specific protocols for strength, power, and hypertrophy
• Sets and reps schemes for a 5-day program
• How to keep strength and power up during a climbing season
• The fallacy of fatigue 
• Large vs small muscle group programming
• When to focus on power vs strength in season
• Winter programming
• Should we lift before or after climbing?
• How to build power as part of a climbing warmup 
• Hang board protocols for strength and health 
• Nutrition, supplements, and sleep guidelines for aging athletes

HERE is a fantastic article Tyler wrote about the subject, to support what was covered in this interview

Other episodes about strength and power to check out:

Dr. Tyler Nelson on Finger Strength

Dr. Tyler Nelson on Power

Dr. Tyler Nelson Q&A 

Dr. Natasha Barnes on Strength Training

Colin and Jesse of C4HP on Strength Training

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Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial):

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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• Dealing with discomfort
• Releasing mental baggage
• Struggling with self-image
• Prioritizing outdoor climbing over indoor training 
• What he and Sharma have in common
• Going back for unfinished business 
• Goals for Meltdown and La Rambla
• The benefit of discovering “tired beta”
• What the best boulderers do  
• There’s always better beta. Always. 
• A sport climber's mentality for bouldering 
• Managing risk and fear on scary boulders

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

• ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout.

• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com

• Nature Climbing: Beautifully crafted lifting edges and hangboards that feature real granite edges for improved texture and skin conditioning. Sustainably crafted works of art, I love them so much! Get 20% off everything at natureclimbing.com using code STRUGGLE. 

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Introduction

01:26 Ethan Pringle's Climbing Achievements

02:49 Deep Dive into Climbing Philosophy

04:25 Interview Begins: Ethan's Background and Struggles

12:03 Mindset and Emotional Challenges in Climbing

56:09 Unlocking Beta: The Key to Climbing Success

57:42 The Philosophy of Constant Refinement

01:00:23 Creative Solutions and Beta Breakthroughs

01:03:37 The Importance of Strategy and Tactics

01:19:11 Managing Fear and Mental Barriers in Climbing

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

• Recap of November goals (hits and misses)
• Learnings from my second 12c
• What being "board strong" has meant for my route climbing 
• What it took to send 12a, 12b, 12c, and 12d in the past 6 weeks
• My first session on Bulldog boulder (V6 / V8)
• How I'm adjusting my training during this performance window
• The fear factor of trying higher moves on a boulder
• Patron questions
• December goals

Thank you so much for supporting me. I love hearing what you're up to, so feel free to hit me up on IG. Have an awesome month!

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• Improving endurance by getting stronger 
• How to self assess weaknesses 
• Is there such thing as “active rest”?
• Developing beginner crack skills 
• Periodization for gym climbers 
• Which crack size is the best to train 
• What standard tests should climbers do
• How often should we test finger strength
• Building a cheap crack trainer at home
• Correlation between finger strength and climbing grade 

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne!
• ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout.
• Nature Climbing: Beautifully crafted lifting edges and hangboards that feature real granite edges for improved texture and skin conditioning. Sustainably crafted works of art, I love them so much! Get 20% off everything at natureclimbing.com using code STRUGGLE.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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In this skin care masterclass, Mads Bülow Duus from Nature Climbing and Justin Brown from Rhino Skin Solutions cover:

• Why skin care can be the difference maker
• What bad climbing skin looks like 
• What good climbing skin looks like
• How to bring skin humidity down
• How to to bring skin humidity up
• How to condition skin for specific types of rock
• When to prep skin (and how) for a big trip
• Protocol for using real rock edges and holds in training 
• How to treat a split or flapper

-

Get 20% off at Nature Climbing and Rhino Skin Solutions by using code STRUGGLE 

-

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

In this episode of the Weekend Warrior series, busy-dad climber Joey Churchman joins to discuss:

• How he broke into new grades on just 3 hours per week at the gym
• Tall-climber struggles (he's 6' 6.5")
• Big gains using a training app to stay focused and efficient 
• From avoiding system boards to training almost exclusively on them
• How he programs his gym sessions and home training for optimal results 
• Picking the right project to break into V7 and 5.12a
• Top-roping tactics for faster sends 
• Using video to accelerate progress 

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne!
• SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.
• Petzl: The best and most reliable helmets, harnesses, draws, and gear that'll help you to Access the Inaccessible. Find Petzl at your local gear shop, and learn more at Petzl.com

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• What hypnosis is and isn't
• How to access flow state more often
• Using self-hypnosis to manage fear of falling
• How to reduce the pain response on and off route
• Breaking bad habits in as little as one session
• Using a 10-min protocol to improve focus and productivity
• How to manage the stress of climbing and beyond
• Getting to sleep faster, and back to sleep after waking in the night
• Controlling HRV using self-hypnosis

Score a 7-day free trial and 20% off your subscription to the Reveri app using code STRUGGLE at reveri.com

-

Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial):

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• Are bouldering and route climbing goals at odds?
• Why having endurance can help with board climbing and bouldering
• What he recommends for my training schedule this season
• The risk of trying to peak too early in the season 
• A top rope drill to learn how to climb faster and mentally manage the pump
• The 3 types of routes that are best suited for boulderers
• Whether I should try to push my sport grade this season or not 
• The Chattanooga V8 he thinks could be my perfect fit

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne!

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Emily Harrington, Kai Lightner, and Anna Hazelnutt team up for a live podcast from iconic Miguel's Pizza to kick off Rocktoberfest! We grab a slice and a beer, then dive into:

• Memories from first trip to the Red

• How to work through the mental discomfort of pump

• Fear of falling and how the pros handle it

• What solidified climbing as their passion in life

• USA Climbing's ban on trans athlete competitors

• How becoming a parent impacts climbing performance and adventures

• How to become a professional climber

• Climbing pet peeves

-

BIG THANKS TO THESE SPONSORS FOR SUPPORTING ROCKTOBERFEST AND BRINGING YOU THIS EPISODE AD-FREE:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

• SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.

• Petzl: The best and most reliable helmets, harnesses, draws, and gear that'll help you to Access the Inaccessible. Find Petzl at your local gear shop, and learn more at Petzl.com

• Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase! 

And a huge shoutout to the RRGCC for making Rocktoberfest happen. Please support their work with a monthly donation like I do, if you can!

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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• Why he now seeks to avoid struggle 
• How he got better when he stopped training  
• The new grip position he learned from Daniel woods that took his performance to new levels
• Boards vs spray walls for his training 
• An argument against training up weaknesses 
• The nemesis Kilter climb he has yet to do
• How he sent Megatron (V17/9A) in 5 days
• How he sent No One Mourns the Wicked (V17/9A) second or third go
• Utilizing “One touch” climbing to send hard things fast 
• Creative outlets and passions beyond climbing 
• Attempting to flash Burden of Dreams

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com
• Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase! 
• Nature Climbing: Beautifully crafted lifting edges and hangboards that feature real granite edges for improved texture and skin conditioning. Sustainably crafted works of art, I love them so much! Get 20% off everything at natureclimbing.com using code STRUGGLE

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

In this Climber's Guide to the Red River Gorge, Eric Hörst and Kris Hampton explore:

• When to visit
• Where to stay (on all budgets)
• Where to eat (on all budgets)
• How to train for the pump
• Tactics to perform at your best
• How to 'protect the send'
• Favorite routes from 5.9 to 5.14

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne!
• 5-Year Training and Performance Journal: The most important climbing tool I use! Takes just a few minutes each day, and yields amazing insights year after year. If you’re psyched on training and performance, this is the journal for you. Log, reflect, send. 

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

04:24 Interview with Eric Horst and Kris Hampton

05:43 Kris Hampton's Climbing Journey

09:36 Eric Horst's Climbing Journey

18:14 Best Seasons to Climb at the Red

24:31 Where to Stay at the Red River Gorge

34:10 Where to Eat at the Red River Gorge

36:54 Training for the Red River Gorge

38:31 Understanding Endurance Climbing

39:25 Training for the Red River Gorge

43:05 Aerobic vs. Anaerobic Training

47:49 The Importance of Year-Round Training

49:43 Mental and Physical Adaptations

57:53 Tactics for a Successful Climbing Trip

01:15:52 Favorite Routes at the Red River Gorge

01:18:52 Discussing Favorite Climbing Routes

01:20:30 Exploring 5.10 Climbing Routes

01:22:50 Diving into 5.11 Climbing Routes

01:28:12 Highlighting 5.12 Climbing Routes

01:33:31 Exploring 5.13 Climbing Routes

01:37:40 Discussing 5.14 and Beyond

01:41:18 Wrapping Up and Future Plans

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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• How she fell into a charismatic climbing relationship that turned very dark, controlling, and abusive 
• The manipulative tricks her partner used to keep her under his control
• Power imbalances that can occur in some climbing relationships
• Her harrowing escape
• The evidence based therapy (EMDR) that she used to process and recover from the trauma 
• Stoic philosophy
• Why she feels more deeply connected to climbing and mastery everyday 
• Struggling with chronic health conditions and how she manages them
• Being psyched on sport multi-pitch and FAs
• How to identify red flags in your relationship or belaytionship
• Being mentored by John Long

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• How she sent ten V10s in her first two years outside
• Challenges (and advantages!) of being 4'11"
• Why indoor climbs can be harder than outdoors for short climbers
• Climbing 3 days per week and doing very little other training
• Why her first season was so magical, and her second season a struggle
• Dealing with send pressure
• The importance of releasing expectations
• Separating self-worth from climbing performance
• Flexibility and finger strength tips to "climb taller"

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne!
• Petzl: Check out the CONNECT ADJUST at your local gear shop, and learn more at Petzl.com. I love this PAS, it's so easy to use.
• Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• How to access maximal effort and power on the first move
• Visualization techniques to get amped
• The value of limiting attempts on a boulder
• Are grades necessary for motivation and progression
• Loss aversion theory
• The importance of skills over grades 
• Managing fear of falling
• A guaranteed way to get better at scary top outs
• Dealing with injuries 
• How to let go of the things we can’t control 
• Overcoming biases to refresh our training and performance 
• How to improve at technique if we don’t have a coach 
• Using video for self technique review 
• When testing various strength metrics is helpful vs a waste of time 
• Building capacity for better bouldering sessions

-

Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial):

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• What my assessment entailed
• My strengths and weaknesses 
• The two main things I need to work on right now
• Specific drills and exercises for me to implement 
• Why he doesn’t want me to cut feet
• The benefit of imposed scarcity for attempts 
• The importance of not 'cheating' climbs
• Why some of my sport climbing instincts are working against me as a boulderer 
• Embracing unstable positions 
• Off-the-wall training to support my climbing 
• How to schedule climbing and conditioning for best gains and recovery 
• When I’ll try my first V8 on the board 

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up board. It’s what I’m training on at home, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo!
• Altitude Climbing: Join legends Chris Sharma and Magnus Midtbø for an unforgettable deep water soloing retreat in Mallorca, where all of the logistics (food, lodging, boat guides, etc.) are taken care of for you. Dream trip! Visit altitudeclimbing.com/events to learn more and apply today.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

Elite climber Chris Sharma explores:

• A wild idea to offer cash incentives for sending hard outdoor climbs
• What happens when comp climbers get psyched on rock
• Why being a busy dad has improved certain aspects of his climbing
• Details on his super steep next level 5.16 (??) project
• Knowing when to walk away from a project
• Being motivated by grades can be good sometimes
• The art of not giving a f*ck
• How he alleviates send pressure
• The intensely beautiful and unique experience of DWS
• How YOU can climb with him and Magnus Midtbø

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com
• SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. 
• Altitude Climbing: Join legends Chris Sharma and Magnus Midtbø for an unforgettable deep water soloing retreat in Mallorca, where all of the logistics (food, lodging, boat guides, etc.) are taken care of for you. Dream trip! Visit altitudeclimbing.com/events to learn more and apply today.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

Mindset coach Neely Quinn explores:

• Pros and cons of being a perfectionist as a climber 
• How to embrace perfectionism (and keep it from ruining our climbing experience)
• How to quantify the amount of "suffering" we are willing to go through to improve as climbers
• Examining my "failed" spring season 
• Why it's important to celebrate the little things
• The three questions to ask oneself after every climbing session
• Is too much humility doing us a disservice?
• Why we fixate on the one thing that went wrong 
• Determining whether climbing is a fun outlet or a source of stress
• Process over progress and what that really looks like
• Why we often send when we least expect to
• A practical drill for overcoming fear of falling 

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase! 
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 
• 5-Year Training and Performance Journal: The most important climbing tool I use! Takes just a few minutes each day, and yields amazing insights year after year. If you’re psyched on training and performance, this is the journal for you. Log, reflect, send. 

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right):

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

Book a session with Neely: https://www.neelyquinncoaching.com/climbing

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• How to schedule workouts as a busy dad and ER doctor
• What worked (and didn't) on his road to 5.13a
• Comparing his hangboard numbers to mine
• What to do when a plateau hits
• How he broke through a hangboard plateau
• Why climbing fast isn't always best
• How gratitude helped him send his hardest route
• Going from noob to proficient Yosemite climber
• His four "rules" for crack climbing
• One simple tip to advance way faster in the Valley

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

• 00:00 Introduction to the Weekend Warrior Series
• 01:08 Meet Doug Hartman: The ER Doctor and Climber
• 01:38 Doug's Journey to Climbing 5.13a
• 02:15 Trad Climbing in Yosemite
• 03:43 Upcoming Events and Personal Updates
• 06:22 Doug's Climbing Background and Early Experiences
• 14:07 Training Strategies and Overcoming Plateaus
• 32:14 The Importance of Rest and Mental Strategies
• 44:24 Training for the Crux
• 45:13 Project Duration and Effort
• 46:54 Realizations and Training Adjustments
• 48:41 Fueling Gains with Fizzy Vantage Nutrition
• 50:05 Introduction to Trad Climbing
• 51:15 Four Realms of Trad Climbing
• 52:06 Crack Climbing Techniques
• 01:01:16 Mental Aspects of Trad Climbing
• 01:08:58 Final Thoughts and Goals
• 01:11:26 Yosemite Climbing Insights
• 01:17:25 Weekend Warrior Wrap-Up

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

Elite climber Jonathan Hörst explores:

• How to train hard when your gym lacks options
• His favorite way to build bulletproof endurance
• The undervalued skill of learning on to rest on route
• To run or not to run
• Was his the heaviest 9a send ever? 
• Bodyweight and composition for various climbing goals
• The snack he eats 30 mins prior to a send go
• Carbs, fat, protein, micronutrients... and how to time them
• His goal of becoming a 'climbing decathlete' 
• Overcoming low-confidence just before sending his hardest climb to date
• The epic new crag he's developing at the Red

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: Get your nutrition dialed! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Here are some AI generated chapters:

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• How to up- and down-regulate the nervous system to perform when it counts 
• Dealing with the inner critic 
• Music, breath work, and movie clips to control your stimulation level 
• The massive connection between sleep and performance 
• How to implement sleep extension intervention
• Relaxation techniques to improve rest and recovery
• Supplements to improve sleep
• Choosing between more sleep or more time to exercise
• Jet lag planning 
• Foods that help us to get better sleep 
• How to manage caffeine for performance and sleep 
• Effect of alcohol, THC, CBD, and Ambien on sleep quality 

To learn more about Dr. Shaw's work or to get in touch with her, check out her website: https://www.drlindsayshaw.com/

-

Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial):

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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It's a podcast of podcasters! Live from Climber's Fest in Lander, WY, we crack a beer with the stoked festival goers and explore:

• What makes ICF and Wild Iris so special

• How a noob (like me) can best enjoy the festival and local climbing

• Climbing pet peeves

• The "blah blah blah"

• Dangerous crag practices

• Expanding vocabulary beyond "Let's goooooo!"

• Crag dogs, crag cats... and crag monkeys?

• What makes the climbing community so dang special

-

BIG THANKS TO WYOCLIMBERS AND ICF FOR PUTTING ON SUCH AN AMAZING EVENT! Also, shoutout to these sponsors for hooking festival goers up with some rad swag:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

• ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout.

• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com

• SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.

• Petzl: The best and most reliable helmets, harnesses, draws, and gear that'll help you to Access the Inaccessible. Find Petzl at your local gear shop, and learn more at Petzl.com

• Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase! 

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• Vertical Dance theory
• Why climbing is not about the hands
• Unlocking rock overs, drop-knees, and flags
• Mastering the mysterious inside-edge flag
• Specific drills to help you get better TODAY
• The brain-body connection
• How to increase our climbing IQ (not just our grade)
• Optimizing fun while also improving performance
• Dealing with our inner critics
• Climbing Out Of Depression, and how the climbing community can help save lives

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Get coached by Be: https: https://www.beclimbing.co.uk/

Support the wonderful work of Climbing Out of Depression: https://cood.org.uk/donate/

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. 

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• Going from beginner to V9
• Transitioning from gym to crag
• Climbing hard at 200 lbs
• The key to steady progress
• Specific technique drills that yielded fast improvements
• Why finger training wasn't producing results
• Setting a goal for 50 days outside... and what it did to his climbing
• The surprising benefit of a spray wall
• The effects of gaining and losing 30 lbs
• His road to V11

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Rúngne: The softest, most durable, and highest performing pants I've ever worn (on or off the rock). Check out my faves, the Harness Utility, and use code STRUGGLEPANTS for free shipping on any pair of pants!

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

• 01:41 Host's Personal Climbing Experience
• 03:47 Upcoming Events and Announcements
• 04:52 Interview with Stephen Conti Begins
• 06:44 Stephen's Climbing Background
• 09:02 Training and Progression Insights
• 18:33 Skill Development and Drills
• 35:44 Memorizing Sequences for Climbing
• 37:47 Setting and Tracking Climbing Goals
• 39:24 Climbing in Challenging Conditions
• 43:24 Balancing Indoor and Outdoor Climbing
• 51:46 Managing Weight and Performance
• 01:11:22 Future Climbing Goals and Coaching
• 01:13:47 Conclusion and Final Thoughts

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

In this episode, elite climber Sonnie Trotter explores:

• The 5.15a he’s training for, and what he’s specifically doing 
• The visualization trick he uses to get better at climbing (while at home)
• Climbers who can do V14 on a board but not 5.10a outside 
• Training power vs endurance 
• Dreamcatcher dreams
• Dealing with fitness setbacks due to sickness or injury
• Board climbing for peak power
• How to improve footwork using hard gym climbs
• Managing fear on bold climbs and free solos
• Getting the kids into climbing 
• His new book Uplifted 

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com
• SCARPA: Whether you’re a climber, trail runner, skier, or hiker, SCARPA offers an array of adventure footwear for the adventure seeker in you. with a commitment to sustainability. Shop the whole collection at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.
•  Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

• 00:51 Journey in Rock Climbing

• 01:30 Balancing Family and Climbing

• 02:02 Training and Rest Strategies

• 02:57 Current Projects and Fitness Regimen

• 04:10 The Legendary Cobra Crack

• 05:12 Mental Aspects of Climbing

• 06:05 Conversation with Sonnie Trotter Begins

• 07:03 Pivotal Moments in Climbing

• 14:10 Sonnie's Climbing Heroes and Influences

• 19:53 Nutritional Adjustments and Insights

• 33:19 Balancing Professional Climbing and Family Life

• 38:49 Sonnie's Current and Future Projects

• 39:27 Navigating Risk and Fear in Climbing

• 42:19 Reflections on Climbing Legacy

• 43:49 Coaching and parenting in Climbing

• 47:06 The Journey to Writing Uplifted

• 51:43 Stories and Reflections from the Book

• 59:50 Reflections on Climbing Legacy

• 01:02:45 Sonnie's Future Goals

• 01:08:48 Listener Questions and Final Thoughts

-

Check out Sonnie's wonderful book, Uplifted, available on Patagonia, Amazon, etc.

-

Meet me at ICF in Lander! https://www.climbersfestival.org/

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• The history and current landscape of system boards
• Where Kilter fits compared to the Moon Board and others
• Why adjustability and a dense variety of hold types matters
• Kevin's assessment of me as a boulderer
• Route climber pitfalls when we turn our sights to bouldering
• My current strengths and weaknesses
• Grades, and why they differ indoors, outdoors, and on boards
• A look ahead at my training journey
• The impact of endurance training on strength adaptations
• The surprising benefit of setting problems on the board
• How to get stronger fingers using larger holds

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne!
• Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up board. It’s what I’m training on at home, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score a free gift pack plus $500-$1000 off depending on your setup (Fullride, Mainline, and Auxiliary kits) let’s gooooo!

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right):

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

Meet me at ICF this year, July 10-13! https://www.climbersfestival.org/

-

• How he inadvertently hazed me on my first Smith climb
• The joy and fallout of being the father of sport climbing in the U.S.
• The stunning Watts route that caused a chain reaction in climbing
• The route J.B. Tribout actually stole from him (it wasn't Just Do It)
• The wild story of how Just Do It actually came to be bolted
• What are the "rules" of climbing anyway?
• Putting Smith Rock on the map, and what makes it so rad
• Being labeled a cheater by his heroes and peers
• Balancing performance, health, and joy as an older climber
• How to have more fun as a climber right now

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com 
• Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase! 
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

• 00:25 Legendary Guest: Alan Watts
• 00:51 Memorable Climbing Experiences
• 01:30 Alan Watts' Impact on Climbing
• 02:02 The Evolution of Sport Climbing
• 02:57 Smith Rock: The Birthplace of Sport Climbing
• 04:10 Personal Stories and Reflections
• 05:12 Upcoming Events and Announcements
• 06:05 Conversation with Alan Watts Begins
• 07:03 Recollections of Climbing at Smith Rock
• 14:10 Challenges and Struggles in Climbing
• 19:53 The Evolution of Climbing Ethics and Techniques
• 33:19 The Iconic Route: Just Do It
• 38:49 The Turning Point in US Climbing
• 39:27 The Controversial Route Theft
• 42:19 Debating the Rules of Climbing
• 43:49 The Evolution of Climbing Ethics
• 47:06 Fueling Climbing Gains
• 51:43 The Joy of Climbing and Community
• 59:50 Modern Climbing and Gym Culture
• 01:02:45 Reflections on Climbing Legacy
• 01:08:48 Concluding Thoughts and Future of Climbing