Taylor Jensen (@taylorjensentj) is a four-time World Longboard Champion who is equally comfortable noseriding as he is throwing down powerful carves. He also collaborates with Firewire Surfboards, making longboards, and more recently, alternative twinzer models. In this episode, we get into what makes a good turn on a longer board, why elite athletes never stop training fundamentals, and how land training can benefit your surfing in ways that surfing alone cannot. We discuss paddling, which Taylor considers one of the most important pillars of surfing, and why neglecting it can stifle your progression. He also gives a detailed breakdown of the twinzer model, why it sits in its own category between a twin and a quad, and what makes it such a fun setup coming off a longboard. 

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Chapters 01:23 Welcome & Intro to Taylor Jensen  02:05 The Secret to Throwing Buckets (Dad Bod & Big Feet)  02:49 Longboard Philosophy & Rail Surfing  04:28 Traditional vs. High Performance Longboarding  06:34 What Makes High Performance Longboarding Look Great  08:39 How to Carve on Longer Boards: Patience, Placement & Rails  11:03 Reading Waves on Mid-Lengths & Longboards  13:31 The Internal Battle: Switching Between Traditional & HP Longboarding  15:58 Training for World Titles: Physical & Mental Game  17:38 Drilling Fundamentals on Dry Land (Cross-Stepping & Footwork)  22:58 Why Paddle Power is Non-Negotiable  28:06 How Longboarding Changes the Way You Read Waves  32:42 The Twinzer Explained  37:27 Board Design Deep Dive: TJ Pro Mid vs. Twinzer Mid-Length  41:44 Closing Advice: Diversify Your Equipment & Surf with Intention

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Garazi Sánchez (@garazisanchezsurf)  is a two-time Spanish national champion from the Basque Country who built her career competing on the world stage before finding a whole new relationship with surfing through twin fins and board shaping. In this episode, she opens up about what it truly takes to surf at a high level; from how a serious back injury became the turning point that led to her best results, to why paddle fitness is the foundation that most surfers overlook. She breaks down the mental side of competing, what it feels like to lose the joy of surfing and how she got it back, and shares her honest take on riding twin fins including the one mistake most surfers make when they first get on one. 

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Chapters 00:01:20 Introduction: Meet Garazi Sánchez 00:02:13 Growing Up Surfing in the Basque Country 00:03:30 How the Basque Culture Shaped Her Surfing 00:05:10 The Adventure Mindset: Surfing in Unlikely Places 00:08:04 The Joy of Watching Beginners Fall in Love with Surfing 00:08:52 Competition as a Path to Self-Knowledge 00:11:17 Starting Out: Competing in the Basque Country 00:16:36 Plateaus, Confidence & Finding Her Footing Internationally 00:18:35 Overcoming the Fear of Not Belonging in the Lineup 00:22:40 The Back Injury That Changed Everything 00:27:39 Training on Land: How It Unlocked Her Best Results 00:31:10 The Overlooked Fundamentals: Positioning, Paddling & Pop-Up 00:39:28 Coaching Maneuvers: Reading Wave Energy 00:45:25 The Shift to Twin Fins & Rediscovering Joy 00:52:22 Tips for Riding Twin Fins & Board Design with Lemon Surfboards

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Kuio Young is a Hawaiian competitive surfer and coach who works closely with everyday surfers, and professionals like Carlos Muñoz and Imaikalani Devault. His approach to surfing is simple; he sees it as a ‘dance’, where you work on specific pieces without losing the flow of the whole wave. We also get into why paddle strength and wave-reading is essential and how even high-level surfers benefit from guidance especially when it comes to mindset and board selection. Kuio also shares how his own mindset has shifted away from chasing clips, and more toward surfing as a way to feel free and stay connected to that true sense of glide.

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Chapters 02:05: Introduction: Who Is Kuio Young? 02:26: The Secret Behind Throwing Massive Spray 03:24: How Riding Longer Boards Changed Everything 04:17: Board Design Deep Dive: Knifey Outlines & Low Volume 08:15: Short Boards vs. Long Boards: Sensation & Creative Freedom 11:22: How Kuio Broke Through as a Surfer 13:25: Hip Surgery, Physical Limitations & the Road to Recovery 17:32: Foundation Training & Taking Care of Your Body 19:43: Coaching Philosophy: Compartmentalization vs. the Full Dance 21:40: How to Read the Ocean & Build a Better Bottom Turn 26:01: Coaching Carlos Munoz & Imai: What Elite Surfers Actually Need 34:15: Common Mistakes & Instant Game-Changers for Developing Surfers 36:42: The Doug Silva Relationship: Coaching Styles Compared 44:07: Style, Watching Old Surf Footage & Finding Your Glide 47:36: Closing Wisdom & Intentions

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New York–based shaper, Saint Christoper is pushing the envelope on Edge board design. We discuss how and why his boards create such a noticeable difference in performance. We start with the core question, “What is the Edge?” and break down the design principles behind concaves, reduced planing surfaces, and dual rockers that lead to effortless speed generation and the ability to hold a higher line for longer. We get into how to harness and design for speed through fin innovation, tail rocker, and experimental asymmetrical outlines. We also discuss Christopher’s experience not surfing for months before a trip to Nicaragua, used only the Basis Paddle Trainer in preparation, was able to surf for 5-6 hrs a day, and why building your ‘engine’ is just as important as dialing in your equipment. Tune in to learn about design, speed, and how to manipulate these elements to make the most out of your time in the water. 

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Chapters 02:05 Meet Edge Board Shaper Saint Christopher 03:01 The First Time Seeing an Edge Board Fly 04:38 The Origin of Edge Boards George Greenough 06:21 Convex vs Concave Surfboard Bottoms Explained 09:22 Why Edge Boards Are So Fast 11:36 How Edge Boards Hold a Higher Line 13:12 ASYM Edge Boards Toe vs Heel Design 16:15 Why Edge Boards Work in Fast Beach Breaks 18:53 Surface Area Drag and Speed 21:03 What Riding an Edge Board Feels Like 24:42 How to Control Edge Board Speed 27:04 New Fin Designs That Change Everything 31:09 Outline Design Short Boards Fish and Simmons 37:10 Designing Surfboards Around Your Stance 41:05 Training Paddle Power for Surf Trips 

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In this episode, 52-year-old Aaron Buckner shares how he went from 365 pounds, morbidly obese, and barely able to surf, to logging two-hour sessions in overhead waves and quadrupling his wave count. A few years ago at Kaisers in Waikiki, he paddled out, caught one wave, and was so gassed he couldn’t surf again for two days. Landlocked in Idaho and frustrated by “one wave and done” sessions, he was skeptical when he first saw the Basis Paddle Trainer. But after finally giving it a shot, and barely lasting five minutes on his first workout, he committed to structured training three to four days a week. Eight months later, he’s surfing seven days straight, holding his own in overhead C-Street, double-overhead South Bay, and even the North Shore, catching 2–4x more waves per session. By improving his paddle power and positioning, he’s getting into waves earlier, fixing his pop-up timing, and progressing again instead of just surviving sessions, proving that with the right foundation, decline isn’t inevitable.

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Chapters 01:39 Introduction to Aaron Buckner 02:17 Aaron’s Background and Move to Idaho 02:27 From 365 Pounds to a New Surfing Goal 04:25 Why Paddle Training Became Essential 06:21 The Hawaii Paddle Out Wake Up Call 08:02 Returning to Kaisers With Real Paddle Power 09:39 Initial Skepticism About the Paddle Trainer 11:04 The Moment He Decided to Buy 12:10 First Workout Reality Check 14:18 Building a Paddle Training Routine 15:13 From 5 Minutes to 30 Minute Paddle Sessions 17:45 Surfing Bigger Waves With Confidence 19:27 Surf Trips That Were Once Impossible 22:36 Technique Feedback and Community

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This episode features John West, also known as @thatsurfguy_ , the surfer behind the Corelord character and the @citypro.app . We dig into what makes someone kook or core, blending satire with serious insight. John breaks down how localism works, why regulation still has a place in some lineups, and shares his own story of getting regulated. We also get into common mistakes beginners make, how surf culture has changed, and what it really takes to improve. He also explains how his CitiPro app is making pro-level video feedback accessible to everyday surfers.

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Chapters 01:22 Meet the Core Lord 01:47 Kook or Core Rapid Fire 02:30 The Champion Mentality 03:21 Earning Respect in the Lineup 03:58 Practice and Sending It 04:16 Born Core 04:44 Why is the Core Lord So Angry 06:01 Enter John West 07:31 Localism Then vs Now 09:34 Beginner Spot Selection 11:04 Chaos vs Order in the Lineup 15:27 Kook Stories and Getting Burned 18:01 Social Media and Real Life Confrontations 21:37 Keys to Surf Progression 29:58 Building the CitiPro App and Surf Entrepreneur Journey

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In this episode, we have Benjamin Golding-Webb, a landlocked surfer based in the UK who juggles family life, running a business, and a 3-hour drive just to surf. He shares his journey from struggling to catch more than a few waves to now consistently surfing 2-3 sessions in the wave pool and 10Xing his wavecount - all from paddle training. We covered how landlocked surfers can really benefit from the Basis Paddle Trainer, and how it can dramatically increase your wavecount and confidence in the water. Benjamin also shares how it helped him build paddle endurance. The online resources gave him tools to improve his paddling and pop-up technique and stay motivated to surf, even with the effort it takes to get there.

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Chapters 01:40 Introducing Ben 02:23 Surfing in Liverpool 03:09 First Surf in Portugal 03:53 Madeira Wipeouts 05:52 Watching a CT Pro 08:44 Surfing Once a Month 10:20 Family Work and Time Limits 12:36 Three Hour Drives for Waves 14:17 Exhausted at the Wave Pool 16:19 Pool Training Fails 24:42 Early Paddle Trainer Results 31:13 Paddling from 90 Seconds to 30 Minutes 36:18 From 3 Waves to 50 Waves

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2-4X your wavecount with the Basis Paddle Trainer and accelerate your progression and fun with the Basis Paddle Trainer www.surfbasis.com

In this episode we have Pepijn Tigges, a former competitive surfer turned surf coach based in the Netherlands. He dives deep into the fundamentals of pop-ups, takeoffs, and turns. He shares a fresh take on the takeoff, comparing it to a seesaw and showing how nose angle controls your speed into the wave. We also break down pop-up mechanics, including front foot vs. back foot timing and how to train movement on land that realistically transfers to the water. Pepijn also explains what happens under your board when you turn, and why this is such a crucial aspect to progression and technique. Lastly, we discuss paddling and why improving this one element of surfing can upgrade every part of the sport. 

Get 5% (€34) discount on sign up for "5 years of unlimited online surfcoaching including 100+ video course" at https://www.surfacademypro.com/home?amid=vanvu6278 with the discount code: “BASIS5”

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Chapters 02:02 Pepijn’s Background and Dutch Surfing Roots 03:19 Surfing in the Netherlands 08:45 How Bad Waves Shape Good Surfers 11:11 Why Small Waves Expose Technical Gaps 12:51 The Seesaw Takeoff Explained 15:58 Chin Down vs Chin Up 18:55 Controlling Speed on Entry 23:12 The Viral Pop-Up Debate 27:25 Back Foot vs Front Foot in Critical Waves 31:15 Building a Controlled Pop-Up 36:32 Slow Practice vs Explosive Movement 42:33 How Boards Actually Turn 46:05 Rotation and Kinetic Energy in Turns 50:54 Paddling as the Foundation 58:16 Coaching Trips and Online Programs

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In this episode, surfboard shaper and Pacific Northwest surf explorer Jeremy Diasio shares how he’s been able to double his time in the water by focusing on paddle training even though he lives nearly 4-6 hours from most of the waves that he surfs at. Jeremy discusses the limits of certain exercises like pull-ups, and why they don’t fully prepare you for paddling in the prone position. He also explains how building paddle strength and endurance gave him the explosiveness, speed, and confidence to handle heavy conditions. Lastly, he breaks down how physical fatigue triggers mental fatigue, and how fixing that chain reaction made a big difference in his surfing and doubled his fun.

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Chapters 00:32 Paddle Power as the Key Limiting Factor 01:07 Jeremy’s Transformation: Quadrupling Wave Count 01:42 Surfing in the Pacific Northwest 03:12 Hidden Barrels and Heavy Conditions 05:23 Six-Hour Strike Missions 06:53 Surfing, Superstition, and Backcountry Exploration 09:17 Consistency, Commitment, and Finding Treasure 10:22 Why Jeremy Got the Paddle Trainer 11:29 Paddle Training Routine and Muscle-Ups 13:32 Why Pull-Ups Alone Aren’t Enough 16:09 Cold Before Tired: Paddle Endurance in Action 17:39 Fatigue, Mindset, and the Physical Exhaustion Domino Effect 21:07 Land Drills, Pop-Ups, and Improving Backside Surfing 25:12 Learning Through Failure and the Long Road to Progress 36:41 Shaping Surfboards on a Sailboat and the DIY Journey

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In this episode of the Basis Surf podcast, Kei Kobayashi shares what helped him level up his competitive surfing over the past year. He talks about how having a clear and positive mindset played a big role in his results. Kei also breaks down his technique—especially his backside bottom turn, where he grabs the rail to stay low and go vertical. We also talk about how small changes to his board made a big difference, and why training your paddling is so important for contests.

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Chapters 02:25 Kei’s origin story: A Japanese family and San Clemente roots 04:14 Early signs of ocean connection and childhood surfing 06:22 How San Clemente and local surfers shaped Kei’s style 08:44 Asking for help and learning from the best 10:49 Mental health: The underrated key to competitive success 13:47 Surfing as chess: Strategy, priority, and heat management 19:03 Sports psychology and his breakthrough at the Korea wave pool event 31:28 Physical training, early mornings, ice baths, and discipline 42:44 Paddle power and realizing the need for targeted training 47:18 Coaching with Tepe, drills, pressure tests, and positivity 50:24 Technical growth and surfing cues for power surfing 57:26 Surfboards, shorter length, tapered rails, and performance gains 1:12:25 Fins, the H4 experiment, and sticking with what works 1:22:30 Intentions before surfing, mini goals, and perspective 1:26:07 Reflecting on growth and what's next for Kei

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On this episode we have returning guest Adam Knox, a former pro surfer turned high-level coach who works closely with adult surfers to help them break through performance plateaus and surf with more power, control, and confidence. We talk about his coaching approach and how he emphasizes the importance of letting go of ego when surfing, and encourages surfers to embrace what he calls “dirty days” where progression comes from falling, experimenting, and getting uncomfortable. He explains how many adult learners skip the playful stage of surfing and end up lacking basic board control. Adam also talks about the value of paddle training, surf skates, and surfing mid-face to build real speed and connection with the wave. At the core of his approach is learning how to harness the wave’s energy through better mechanics, positioning, and mindset.

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Chapters 02:17 Welcome Back Adam Knox 02:36 The Accident: Dirt Bikes, Loss, and Perspective 09:17 Recovery, Pain, and Progress 12:07 From Prodigies to Adults: Coaching Shift 14:50 Individualized Coaching vs. Generic Programs 16:45 Surfing Midface & Harnessing Energy 18:21 Dirty Days: Playing, Failing & Board Skills 26:46 Surf Skates & Carvers: Training Tools 30:16 Breaking Down Rail Engagement & Wave Energy 34:32 Lineup IQ, Hunting Waves, and Sniper Mindset 38:43 Wave Pools for Rapid Progression 47:09 Surfboard Selection & Volume Strategy 52:54 Final Thoughts: Train, Commit, and Let Go 57:06 Upcoming Trips & How to Work with Adam 59:09 Recovery, Community, and Rebuilding Through Coaching

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Chris and Evan from @thesurfcontinuum talk about how to progress as a beginner surfer in this week’s episode of the Basis Surf Podcast. We talked about the importance of starting out with a solid foundation and how most people try to move too quickly without putting in consistent time in the water. We also got into board control, on and off the wave, and covered the art of missing waves. We also talked about the value of paddling in every aspect of surfing.

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Chapters 00:32 Paddling Is the Foundation of Surfing 01:20 Introducing Chris and Evan (The Surf Continuum) 02:34 The Kookcast Origin Story 04:06 Evan’s Maldives Kook Story 06:00 What Surf Schools Get Wrong 09:33 Starting Beginners in the Whitewater and on Boogie Boards 12:10 The False “Intermediate” and Rethinking the Stand-Up 15:38 Why the End of the Wave Matters 17:55 Leashless Surfing and Board Control 21:32 Surfing With Intention, Not Autopilot 26:40 Efficient Paddling and the 50% Rule 32:33 The Art of Missing Waves 39:05 Board Choice: It’s Not the Arrow 50:27 Final Lessons, Intentions, and Desert Island Boards

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In this episode we’ve got Cliff Kapono, a pro surfer and scientist from the Big Island of Hawaii. We speak about his approach to surfing growing up, from riding whatever boards were around to chasing the feeling of freedom and safety in the ocean. We then get into how his relationship with surfing changed over the years, and discuss the concept of chasing waves with inner peace. We also talk about his incredible work studying reef structures and their connection to surf breaks. And finally, Cliff also just came out with an amazing film, Circadian Rhythms, that encapsulates this circular story of his approach and relationship to surfing. 

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Chapters 00:48 Paddle Power and Getting More Waves 01:31 Introducing Cliff Kapono and Circadian Rhythms 02:18 Growing Up Surfing on the Big Island 05:23 Boarding School and Weekend Surf Missions 10:15 Surf Culture, Boards, and Early Style 13:11 Surfing as Stability and Escape 16:44 Chasing Feeling Over Performance 18:56 Learning 360s, Airs, and Obsession 21:42 First Sessions at Pipeline 26:01 Stepping Away From Surfing 30:06 Boards as Tools for Feeling 35:44 Letting Go of Validation and Learning Turns 45:07 The Meaning Behind Circadian Rhythms 52:39 Surf Science, Reefs, and What’s Next

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Jonas a.k.a. Bohemian Surf Bum is a German surfer and content creator who’s in the process of making a surf film titled Coastal Cowboy. In this episode, we talk about the problems that arise when you try to force surfing before you’re ready. He shares stories of frustration and ego and the many walls he hit while learning the basics of surfing. We also discuss why flow, comfort, and endurance in surfing isn’t built on power or repetition alone, but also on intention and time in the water. 

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Chapters

00:29 Introducing the Coastal Cowboy Film

00:46 Paddle Power Is the Limiting Factor

02:24 Prevalence of German Surfers

03:40 Leaving Germany for Surfing

04:44 Reconnecting With Surfing During COVID

07:45 Surfing as Therapy and Emotional Reset

12:22 Flow vs Forcing in Surfing

13:09 The Struggle With Overthinking Progress

14:54 Breaking Through Surfing Plateaus

16:03 The Importance of Humility in the Lineup

18:31 Learning More on Shitty Waves

23:47 Training Surf Skills on Dry Land

24:51 Transitioning to Longboarding

27:05 Surf Trips Without Forecasts or Phones

28:09 The Surf-Horse Adventure Begins

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In this episode, we have a returning guest, Olympic coach and ISA World Master Champ, Magnum Martinez. Having gone through a serious hamstring injury, he talks about the importance of rehabilitation, patience, and adapting surfing techniques, especially when transitioning to bigger boards. Magnum also highlights the significance of paddle fitness and the keys to a good pop up.

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Chapters 00:00  Paddle Training & Staying Surf‑Ready   01:36  Podcast Intro & Magnum’s Background   03:57  The Injury: How It Happened   07:22  Immediate Aftermath & Realizing the Severity   09:59  Mental Challenge of Recovery   13:51  Rehab Mindset: Patience, Healing, and Discipline   20:15  Physical Therapy, Massage, and Long‑Term Commitment   25:33  Injury Prevention, Flexibility, and Aging as an Athlete   29:26  Returning to Surfing & Pop‑Up Limitations   34:17  Footwork, Range of Motion, and Technique Adjustments   37:15  Riding Bigger Boards After Injury   44:14  Training Harder After 50   50:11  Board Size, Rail Engagement, and Progression   56:54  Single Fins, Longer Lines, and Surf Technique Development   01:04:23  Paddle Technique, Fitness, and Basis Trainer Insights  

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In this episode, @micahmargieson talks about his evolution as a surfer, from growing up on the Gold Coast with his dad Brendan “Margo” Margieson, to finding his own approach to surfboards, style, and mindset. Micah shared what it was like growing up with his dad, and how that helped him stay grounded during his junior comp years. We also got into his surfboard sponsorship journey, starting with STCY, then moving through Chilli, Sharp Eye, Album, Arakawa, and eventually landing on JS, with specific mention of the Golden Child surfboard. He breaks down what worked, what didn’t, and how trying different designs and fin set ups has shaped his surfing. We also talked about how he trains and how he keeps his flow. 

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Chapters 00:48 Micah’s Paddle Power Transformation 02:58 Growing Up with Margo 04:19 Lessons from Dad: Pressure, Style & Mental Game 05:13 Learning to Surf the Right Way 08:16 Micah’s Influences & Style Evolution 12:39 Flow State and No Intention Surfing 15:08 Training Philosophy & Balance 17:40 Paddle Fitness in Europe 21:00 Board Journey: From Stacey to Sharp Eye 23:25 Riding Maurice Coles & Board Feel 27:09 Transition to Album Surfboards 30:56 Finding the Golden Child (JS Industries) 33:07 Step-Ups, Big Waves & the Big Horse 35:29 Fins, Small Wave Boards, and What’s Next

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Join hundreds of other surfers who have dramatically boosted their wave count and progression. 

For many surfers, paddle power is their biggest limiting constraint, so paddle training is the highest returning investment you can make in your surfing.

Alister Cran (@surf_rehab) is a surf rehab specialist who helps professional and everyday surfers overcome surfing related injuries. He talks about the most common injuries he sees, particularly knee, neck, back and hip injuries, and mentions some simple but effective ways to prevent them. Throughout our chat, Alister continues to emphasize the importance of strength training, mobility, and mental health in injury recovery and performance enhancement. We also touch on the significance of deliberate practice in improving surf and paddle technique, the impact of surf-specific training equipment, and finally close off with Alister’s upcoming surf physiotherapy and wellness retreats.

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Chapters 02:08 Intro: Basis Surf x Surf Rehab 02:44 How Alister Became a Surf Physio 03:51 Nitro Circus, X Games & Rock Tours 06:13 Moving to Bali & Treating Pros 07:24 The Top 4 Surf Injuries 09:23 Acute vs Overuse Injuries 11:11 Best Knee Prehab: Heavy Lifting 14:51 Strength vs Mobility for Surfers 17:50 When Mobility Fails: Hip Structure Issues 22:08 Your Body as a System  26:19 Neck Wipeouts, Disc Bulges & Rehab 31:54 Simple Neck Training for Desk Surfers 34:27 Leg Strength, Paddle Trainer & Performance Gains

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Get free resources to upgrade your paddle power https://linktr.ee/gosurfbasis

Join hundreds of other surfers who have dramatically boosted their wave count and progression. 

For many surfers, paddle power is their biggest limiting constraint, so paddle training is the highest returning investment you can make in your surfing.

Pierre Maré grew up surfing in South Africa but is now landlocked living in London. He only surfs only once a month yet still he managed to quadruple his wave count at the wave pool in just three months after incorporating the Basis Paddle Trainer into his training sessions. In this episode, he shares how paddle fitness transformed his wave count, how fixing his paddling fixed his pop up, and why even short, focused sessions made a big difference in his surfing. We also talk about the limits of self-teaching, the impact of structured coaching, and how consistency can lead to substantial progress. 

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Chapters 00:32 Black Friday Deal and Podcast Intro 01:42 Meet Pierre Mare 01:53 Pierre's Surfing Background 03:07 Surf Access While Living in London 04:09 Pierre’s Training Results 05:23 Rehab Journey and Paddle Training Start 06:26 Wave Pool Progress and Stats 08:43 The Real Paddle Challenge in Wave Pools 10:17 Improving Wave Conversion Rates 11:27 Paddle Fatigue Affects the Pop-Up 13:50 Technique and Recovery Stroke Training 15:44 First Time Using the Paddle Trainer 16:34 Current Paddle Training Routine 19:02 Boost in Confidence and Trip Preparation 22:56 Experience With Courses and Community

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Join hundreds of other surfers who have dramatically boosted their wave count and progression. 

For many surfers, paddle power is their biggest limiting constraint, so paddle training is the highest returning investment you can make in your surfing.

This week, pro surfer Zeke Lau breaks down how his paddle training has completely transformed his surfing. From improving positioning and catching waves to boosting confidence, Zeke explains why paddle fitness is the foundation of success for surfers of all levels. Watch the full episode to learn how you can improve your paddling and take your surfing to the next level.

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00:00 Paddling Is the Foundation 00:17 Why Pros Still Train Paddling 00:33 Learning the Importance Late 01:35 Tour Experience Changed Everything 02:44 Cramping and Fatigue During Events 03:26 Starting Paddleboard Training 03:34 Balancing Surf and Paddle Hours 04:02 Mental Side of Paddling 04:17 Learning to Read Open Ocean 05:05 From Hating to Loving It 05:41 The Psychological Edge 06:25 Paddling for Bigger Surf 07:41 Winter Surf Wake-Up Call 08:15 Boxing Comparison for Paddling

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Get free resources to upgrade your paddle power https://linktr.ee/gosurfbasis

Join hundreds of other surfers who have dramatically boosted their wave count and progression.

For many surfers, paddle power is their biggest limiting constraint, so paddle training is the highest returning investment you can make in your surfing.

Brazilian big wave surfer Raquel Heckert shares her inspiring journey from surfing in Brazil to competing in Hawaii's XL waves like Jaws, Waimea, and Pipeline. She discusses her transition to big wave surfing and how to manage fear in heavy waves and hold-downs using positivity, faith, and dedication. Raquel also offers tips for chasing tubes, navigating competitive lineups, and the significance of paddle endurance in big wave surfing. 

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Chapters 00:00 Raquel Heckert: A Journey from Brazil to Big Waves 02:44 Overcoming Challenges in Surfing 05:51 The Evolution of a Big Wave Surfer 08:38 Surfing Puerto Escondido: A New Challenge 11:41 Navigating Fear in Heavy Waves 14:50 The Mental Game of Big Wave Surfing 22:11 The Mental Game of Surfing 24:27 Navigating Crowded Lineups as a Woman 28:22 The Importance of Paddling in Big Wave Surfing 30:17 Transitioning from Brazil to Hawaii 34:32 Goals and Aspirations in Surfing 36:04 Technique Breakthroughs and Learning 40:51 Reflections on Dedication and Balance 43:18 Intentions Behind Surfing

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In this episode, we have two-time world surfing champion Tom Carroll sharing insights on surf technique, wave reading, and building a relationship with the ocean. He talks about the value in surfing different conditions, good and bad, the delicate balance between intuition and analytical thinking, and the benefits of staying physically fit and having proper equipment for maintaining performance, especially as you get older. He also offers advice for younger surfers and shares details on his upcoming retreats focused on breathwork for surfers.

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction: The Ocean as a Teacher 00:51 Paddle Power and the Basis Trainer 01:52 Framing the Conversation: Surfing, Technique and Longevity 02:40 Building Wave Knowledge Over a Lifetime 05:27 Fear in Surfing and Early Experiences 07:58 Surf Everything: Learning in All Conditions 10:35 Equipment Evolution and Staying Curious 14:24 Wave Reading: Intuition vs Analysis 18:47 Developing a Mental Map of Waves 23:19 Observing and Learning from Other Surfers 25:03 Drills: Finding the Perfect Line 29:55 The Roundhouse Cutback Drill 32:25 Favorite Boards for Crappy Waves 37:22 Training for Longevity and Recovery 42:21 Final Reflections and Upcoming Retreats

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André Gioranelli from Wet Surf Training breaks down the cultural differences in surfing, highlighting the relentless work ethic of Brazilian surfers. He also dives into a holistic approach to  surf coaching which blends fitness, nutrition, and mental prep altogether. André explains how learning to adapt to different surf conditions and practicing with Carver Skateboards can improve your surfing skills dramatically, while also calling out common misconceptions in surf instruction.

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Chapters 00:36 Paddle Power and Training Tools 01:12 Meet Coach Andre Eira 02:34 Why Brazilians Dominate Pro Surfing 05:41 Training Beyond the Water 10:37 The Fire to Compete 16:06 Surfing as Sport vs. Lifestyle 18:41 Andre’s Holistic Coaching Approach 23:11 What Slows Progress in Surfing 29:25 Custom Training for Different Waves 33:02 How to Train as a Santa Cruz Surfer 34:58 Using Surf Skates to Train Style 37:54 Coaching Style and Correcting Bad Habits 45:33 Ego vs. Coachability 50:29 What Surf Instruction Often Gets Wrong 56:41 Final Thoughts, Reflections, and Advice

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In this episode Coach Ryan Croteau ( @coachcrouton_ ) joins me in talking about the secret of doing the perfect backside snap, the importance of angling your takeoff, why committing on taking off on a wave is safer than hesitating, and the value in paddle training. 

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Chapters

00:00 Intro

01:53 The Wave Pool Experience

04:21 The Importance of Angling your Takeoff

06:11 Importance of Reading the Ocean

09:12 Perks of Learning from Beach Breaks

15:11 Tips for Surfing Beach Breaks

17:02 Coaching in Guatemala

21:58 Surfing Pascuales

24:11 Paddle Hard and Commit to Get Tubed

26:14 Tips for Managing Fear in Surfing

31:19 Reviving Power Surfing

35:30 The Importance of Paddle Training

40:54 Lightbulb Moments in Surfing Technique

44:24 The Secret to Doing Backside Snaps

46:13 Surfing for Longevity

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In this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, we have Malachy and Mark of Burnd Sunscreen. We’ll be talking about the difference between chemical and mineral sunscreens, the science behind them, and we are going to dive into how safe sunscreen is for us and the environment. They will also share their insights on what is the best sunscreen for surfers, and the actual meaning behind “Reef Safe”.

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Chapters 02:26 Surfers and Sunburn: Why This Is a Bigger Deal Than You Think 04:19 How Skin Cancer Took Surfers Out of the Water 06:04 What Makes a Sunscreen Actually Work? 10:06 The Myth of Thick, Caked-On Sunscreen 12:31 Why Clear Sunscreens Might Protect Better 14:17 How Chemical Sunscreens Work (and Are They Safe?) 21:36 “Reef Safe” Doesn’t Mean What You Think 24:28 Why Most Sunscreen Labels Are Misleading 26:08 What’s in Burned Sunscreen and Why It’s Different 35:56 Burned vs Other Brands 42:30 Real-World Protection: What Lasts in the Water? 52:59 Where to Find Burned + Final Thoughts

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In this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, we have top high-performance psychologist Dr. Michael Gervais. He’s worked with Carissa Moore, who won gold in Tokyo, and has coached a lot of top athletes, including the Seattle Seahawks during their Super Bowl run. We talk about what he learned working with Carissa, Caroline Marks’ mental approach, how Mick Fanning stays sharp, and how Kai Lenny manages fear.

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Chapters 01:58 Working with Team USA for the Olympic Tokyo 2020 Games 03:35 How Losing Became a Highlight 07:30 The Mental Framework Behind Winning and Losing 15:05 Fear of Other People’s Opinion 21:11 Strategies for Coming Back to the Present Moment 28:47 Key Lessons with Carissa Moore 33:50 Key Lessons from Mick Fanning 37:17 Three Practices to Increase Awareness 43:10 Excessive Worrying is the Problem 45:28 How Kai Lenny Tackles Fear  51:21 Ask Questions and Know That You’ll Be Fine

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In this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, we have Barton Lynch—former world champ, Pipe Master, WSL commentator, and coach. He’s worked with pros like Sally Fitzgibbons, Kolohe Andino, and Team Australia at the ISA Games, but he also spends a lot of time helping everyday surfers. We get into the mental side of surfing—learning to trust your intuition, getting out of your own way, and surfing for the feeling. We also break down vertical backside re-entries, style, and how his drive came from a mix of total desperation and then learning to not care at all.

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Chapters 02:10 Key to Success in Pipe Masters: Desperation 07:40 Passion as a Motivator 09:15 You Fail for a Living 10:30 Value and Commit to Yourself 11:25 Story with Kelly Slater 14:10 Make Yourself Happy and Help Others 16:15 Light-bulb Moments Back in the Day 21:04 Video as a Tool 23:34 On Mastering Vertical Backside Reentries 26:15 Shift from Competitive Surfing to Coaching 27:30 Emotions When Coaching 30:35 No One Approach Always Works 31:07 Learning from Surrender 32:35 Competing Against Tom Curren 34:40 If You Can’t Imagine It You Can’t Do It 35:45 On Style and Surfing for the Feeling 38:34 Drill: Surfing in First Gear with 50% Energy 39:55 You Need to Mentally Rehearse It 44:33 Method Acting and Surfing 46:26 The Intelligence that Comes from Feeling 48:58 Stop and Be Grateful 55:24 Relying on Intuition 59:56 Surfing or Me? 01:02:37 Surfing Video Game

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In this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, we have Michael Frampton of the Surf Mastery Podcast talk about the fundamentals of surfing, mastering how to read waves, his philosophy on surfing, the importance of paddling, and the advantages of meditation in surfing.

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Chapters

02:03 Looking for the Details in The Wave

07:05 Be More Present

10:29 The Foundation of Surfing

11:11 Surfing is Just Advanced Basics

16:23 Develop Your Own Personal Surfing Philosophy 

18:03 Technique is Secondary

19:15 Stress Affects Surfers of All Levels

26:05 Surfing is More of an Artform Than a Sport

31:02 Surfing Longboards Helps with Adaptability

36:17 The Shame Factor Hinders You

39:09 Board Choice is Crucial for Progression

39:40 Clean Up Your Technique with Dryland Training

41:20 Surfing as Martial Arts

44:43 Getting the Fundamentals of Surfing Right

48:08 Surfing is a Long-term Relationship

52:30 Online Courses at surfmastery.com

53:53 Light-bulb Moment for Technique

54:43 Light-bulb Moment for Boards/Fins

55:26 Intention While Surfing

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In this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, we have one of the most forward-thinking board designers in surfing, Daniel Thomson (@tomo_surfboards). We talk about how his planing hull designs are flipping traditional surfboard logic on its head, the evolution of boards like the Vader, Cymatic, and brand-new Neutrino, why most surfers are riding boards that are holding them back. This episode is packed with tips for surfers who want to ride faster, paddle stronger, and rethink their equipment from the foam up.

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Chapters

02:45 Design Influences for Tomo Surfboards

05:54 Revolutionize Surfboard Design for Everybody

08:19 Advantages of Planing Hulls Over Pointy-Nose Thrusters

13:31 Planing Huls: Hold/Grip Factor Relies More on the Total Length of Your Edge

14:42 Kelly Slater Surfing Hale'iwa on 5’3” Cymatic

18:09 Sci-Fi Shape Blends Planing Hulls with Pointy Nose

20:44 New Board Design with Kelly Slater

25:41 What It’s Like Working with Kelly Slater

28:55 Goals with the Revo Max

31:22 Mini-midlengths

36:32 First Twin Fin Setup

37:35 New Upcoming Shape: The Neutrino

41:08 How To Size Boards

42:37 The Underarm Test for Rails

44:07 Too Attached to How Boards Look Than How They Feel

46:09 Tips for Surfing His Shapes

47:58 Intention When Surfing

48:53 What Board to Bring If You Were Stranded on an Island

49:11 Vader V2 vs His Other Shapes

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In this episode, Van Vu—founder of the Basis Surf Podcast and the Basis Paddle Trainer—talks about his journey as a surfer obsessed with improving his surfing in this interview with Michael Frampton of the Surf Mastery Podcast. He shares how rushing to shortboards stalled his progress, and how returning to longer boards, focusing on fundamentals, and building paddle fitness transformed his surfing. Van also explains why paddle power is the biggest bottleneck for most surfers and how more reps—not flashy turns—are the real key to progression. The conversation dives deep into technique, board choice, coaching perspectives, and why catching more waves is the fastest way to improve.

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Chapters

02:23 Earliest Surfing Memory

05:37 First Time Shortboarding

09:00 Don’t Size Down Too Quickly

13:25 Sizing Down in a Thoughtful Manner

16:00 From Riding a Pickup Truck to an F1 Car

19:30 Inspiration for Starting the Basis Surf Podcast

22:13 Lessons Learned from Starting the Podcast

27:28 Surf Coaching is Still at Its Infancy

30:14 Learn through Brute Volume

33:24 You Need to Catch More Waves

36:00 Inspiration for the Basis Paddle Trainer

38:00 Maintaining the Arched Prone Position While Paddling

41:00 The Biggest Resource Is Your Time

43:15 2x-8x Your Wave Count 

47:30 Surfing as a Pyramid

49:10 Paddle Power of Pro Surfers vs Beginners

51:45 It’s a Game of Years

54:12 Discount Code

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In this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, we have Matteo Blevins of Nica Time (@nicatime) at Playa Colorados, Nicaragua. We get into wave positioning, paddling at the apex, and angling your takeoff. He breaks down his go-to boards, twins and quads, and how they help him make impossible sections. We also dig into his unique backside pig dog stance and how the right paddle technique can help with your pop-up.

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Chapters 02:12 Why Colorados Is One of the Best Beach Breaks 04:38 Seasonal Changes and When to Go 07:06 How Tides Affect the Wave 10:09 Wave Reading and Positioning Tips 12:11 Paddling Is 80% of Getting Good Waves 14:10 How to Take the Correct Line on a Barrel 16:08 Why Strong Paddle Technique Helps Your Popup 17:03 Backside Pig Dog Technique Breakdown 20:26 Recommended Quiver for a Trip to Colorados 23:48 Twin Fins vs. Single Fins in the Barrel 26:29 Common Mistakes Surfers Make at Colorados 27:00 Mindset and Favorite Board

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In this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, we have Augusto Carrara, founder of Underwave Training (@underwave.training). A breath and apnea coach specializing in land and water-based breath-hold training designed specifically for surfers. We’re gonna talk about how to acclimate to repeated CO2 exposure, discover your own personal relaxation triggers, adjust the gears of breathing for surfing and the importance of being a good swimmer/paddler.

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Chapters

01:23 Meet Augusto from Underwave Training

02:16 Augusto’s Early Breath-Hold Background

06:25 Why All Surfers Need Breath Training

08:38 Functional Breathing for Surfing

10:55 Regulating Oxygen and Carbon Dioxide

12:41 Prepping for a Hold-Down in Real Time

14:40 Relaxation Techniques During Wipeouts

20:17 What Happens When You’re Exhausted

23:07 Training Your Body to Tolerate CO₂

26:25 Underwater Drills for Realistic Surf Scenarios

33:57 Never Train Breath-Holds Alone in Water

35:33 The Swimming Gap in Surf Culture

44:03 Surf Intentions, Boards, and Dream Waves

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In this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, we have Didier Piter (@didierpitersurfcoach), who was the head coach for Germany in the 2024 Olympics, a 4 time European champion, and a semi-finalist at Pipeline. We’re gonna talk about the key to bottom turns, paddle training for Teahupo’o, common mistakes that most surfers make, and the importance of balancing art and technique.

Chapters 00:00 Intro 02:30 Coaching the German Olympic Team 08:36 Techniques for Major Maneuvers 09:58 The Art of Balancing Technique and Flow 13:45 The Key to Bottom Turns 15:12 Embracing Plasticity in Surfing 18:00 Training Neuroplasticity for Surfers 23:25 Preparing for Teahupoʻo 25:42 Paddle Training for Teahupoʻo 28:02 Coaching his son, Sam Piter 31:08 Secrets to Progressive Surfing 33:16 Common Surfing Mistakes 36:40 What Board to Bring If Stranded on a Deserted Island 38:05 Intention When Surfing

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Subscribe for more interviews with pro surfers, coaches, shapers, and everyday surfers like Tom Carroll, Zeke Lau, Victor Bernardo, Matt Parker of Album Surf, Matt Meola, Ryan Lovelace, Eric Arakawa, Noel Salas of Surf n Show, Parker Coffin, Dane Gudauskas, Kassia Meador, Clayton of Ombe Surf, Dylan Lightfoot, Derek Dunfee, Magnum Martinez, and more!

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In this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, we have Tai Buddha (@taibuddha), a pro surfer of Maori descent, spent his years surfing between Australia and Bali. He’s a master of the Indo strike mission and established the iconic beach bar called the Single Fin in Uluwatu. We’ll be diving into the importance of having the right board, the key to taking off and the importance of paddling and committing in big waves.

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Chapters

00:00 The Importance of Paddle Power

01:57 Tracking Swells and Planning Strike Missions

06:28 The Thrill of the Chase

11:16 Risk and Reward in Surfing

13:33 Preparation for Adventure

16:00 Essential Gear for Strike Missions

20:01 Developing the Big Horse Board

26:39 Eliminating Doubt in Heavy Waves

28:53 The Joy of Surfing with Family

30:09 Mastering the Pop-Up: Tips from the Pros

33:19 The Importance of Training and Conditioning

36:14 Backside Surfing: Techniques and Preferences

39:59 Mindset and Intentions in Heavy Waves

44:20 Life Lessons from Strike Missions

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In this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, we have Rafael Kroeff a.k.a. RK (@rktraininghawaii) who’s a big-wave surfer/surf coach on the north shore of Hawaii. He has trained athletes like Rio Waida, Erin Brooks, and Shino Matsuda and other big-wave surfers like Jack Robinson and Ian Gentile. Tune in as we talk about his innovative surf training methods—combining physical conditioning, cognitive drills, and breathing techniques—to help elite and everyday surfers improve reactivity, creativity, and performance in unpredictable surf conditions.

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Chapters

00:00 Reactivity and Surfing Performance

02:01 The Purpose of Reactive Drills

03:31 Stability as the Foundation

05:18 Overloading the Brain to Unlock Creativity

08:07 Innovative Tools: Body Blade & Muscle Activation

12:19 Skate Balance vs. Indoboard

18:31 Mini BOSU Ball Plyometrics

21:22 Surfing’s Resistance to Innovation

26:01 General vs. Maneuver-Specific Training

28:54 The Full Training Protocol

31:52 Advice for the Everyday Surfer

35:33 Foundational Plyometric Progressions

36:34 Lightbulb Moments & Training Insights

42:06 A Fins Revelation at Jaws

45:30 The Role of Paddling in Big Wave Surfing

50:12 Surfing as a Spiritual Experience

52:16 Where to Find Rafael Kroeff

Cover Image Credits:

• @yusurf

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In this episode, we dive into Alistair’s experience as one of the original beta testers for the Basis Trainer. He breaks down what worked, what didn’t, and why common training methods like elastic bands don’t always translate to better paddling. We also explore how the Basis Trainer transformed his wave count, positioning, and overall performance in the water.Sign up for our free surfboard guide for sizing down volume, video library and newsletter

Chapters

00:00 The Journey to Surf Fitness

03:13 Challenges of Surfing as an Adult

09:28 The Importance of Paddle Fitness

12:24 Training Techniques for Surf Fitness

16:02 Understanding Energy Systems in Surfing

22:40 Training Techniques for Optimal Performance with the Basis Paddle Trainer

24:36 The Limitations of Elastic Bands and Swimming in Paddle Training

26:31 Understanding the Specificity Principle in Sports Training

30:43 The Importance of Recovery and Wave Count

33:38 Basis Paddle Trainer Results

40:12 Maximizing Joy Through Paddle Power

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In this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, Paul Godette ( @gaul_p ) and I talk all about ding repairs, the dos and don’ts for wet foam, delaminated boards, snapped boards, etc. We also talk about how important it is to stay paddle-fit for inconsistent surf spots like Rockaway and how the Basis Paddle Trainer is able to help you get there through cold wintery flat spells.

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Chapters

00:00 Intro

01:06 Ding Repair Basics

04:48 Temporary Fixes vs. Professional Repairs

06:34 Understanding Ding Repair Kits

11:05 Common Mistakes in Ding Repair

16:01 Dealing with Wet Foam

21:02 Repairing Dings and Delaminations

25:25 Repairing a Snapped Board

27:20 Fin Box Repairs

28:15 Repairing Concaves on Surfboards

29:17 Understanding Ding Repair

30:27 The Journey of Shaping a Surfboard

33:51 Lessons Learned from Shaping

36:12 The Art and Science of Surfboard Design

40:14 Tips for Surfing Cold and Tricky Beach Breaks

42:52 Choosing the Right Equipment for Rockaway

45:47 The Importance of Paddle Fitness

50:11 Light Bulb Moments in Surfing Technique

53:01 Finding Your Perfect Surfboard

Cover Image Credits:

• @zane.elias @__moaj_ 
• Yury Tsednov

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In this week’s episode of Basis Surf Podcast, I’m joined by Clancy Dawson ( @clancydawson ), one of the coaches at @surfingaus who’s focused on preparing elite Australian surfers for the world stage. We dive deep into the importance of training in the gym, getting paddle fit, ways to improve your cutback, and more importantly, how to stop caring about what other people think and start focusing on improving your techniques. 

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Chapters

00:00 Embracing Failure in Surfing

06:02 Innovative Training Techniques for Surfers

14:53 The Role of Gymnastics in Surf Training

12:06 Balancing Strength and Surfing

15:04 Preparing for Surf Trips and Competitions

16:24 Training Power Surfing in the Gym

25:26 The Importance of Paddling in Surfing

33:20 Mental Aspects of Surfing and Paddling

39:25 Tactical Approaches to Competitive Surfing

46:02 Intention and Focus in Surfing

50:10 Dream Waves and Ideal Surfboards

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In this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, we have Lakey Peterson ( @lakeypeterson ), the first ever woman to land an air in NSSA. She was also recently featured in a movie with @805beer called “Making Waves: The Lakey Peterson Story” documenting her surfing journey as a competitor on the Championship Tour. Don’t miss out on this episode as we talk about her rollercoaster ride of joining the tour, working on wraps, setting intentions on a wave, and working on head positioning for snaps.

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction: Breaking Barriers in Surfing

01:56 The Journey of the Film “Making Waves”

04:50 The Rollercoaster Ride of Joining the Tour

08:41 Overcoming Challenges and Self-Doubt

14:13 Training and Technique for Success

20:48 Consistency in Performance

24:13 Working with a Sport Psychologist and Techniques for Staying Present

28:11 Preparation for Upcoming Events

29:47 Equipment Evolution and Board Choices

33:57 Coaching Insights and Technical Adjustments

36:15 The Importance of Head Positioning

41:01 Intention Behind Surfing

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In this week’s episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, we have Masatoshi Ohno ( @masatoshiohno ), pro surfer and coach for Japan’s surfing team in the 2025 Olympics, chairman of the S League, and known as the "Japanese Occy" for his powerful style. Don’t miss out on this episode as he talks about the art of surfing and becoming one with the waves, how alternative boards change the way you surf, and the importance of paddle training.

今週の Basis Surf Podcast では、プロサーファーであり、2025年オリンピック日本代表チームのコーチ、Sリーグの会長、そしてパワフルなスタイルから「日本のオッキー」と称される Masatoshi Ohno ( @masatoshiohno ) を迎えます。

今回のエピソードでは、サーフィンの技術と波と一体になることの重要性、オルタナティブボードがサーフィンのスタイルをどう変えるのか、そしてパドルトレーニングの大切さについて語ってくれます。お見逃しなく！

Chapters

00:00 The Essence of Surfing

01:55 Cultural Perspectives: Competing in Different Environments

07:44 Self-Exploration Through Surfing: Understanding Emotions

13:23 The Role of Mental Preparation in Surfing

14:31 Team Dynamics: Training for the Olympics

22:46 Resetting: The Importance of Taking Breaks

27:49 The Surfing Journey: Personal Experiences and Inspirations

32:18 Breaking Through Plateaus: Training and Mental Strategies

35:19 The Importance of Paddling

36:37 The Art of Surfing: Balancing Competition and Expression

42:47 Finding Joy in Every Wave: Mindset and Equipment Choices

チャプター

00:00 サーフィンの本質

01:55 文化的視点：異なる環境での競技

07:44 サーフィンを通じた自己探求：感情を理解する

13:23 サーフィンにおけるメンタル準備の役割

14:31 チームダイナミクス：オリンピックに向けたトレーニング

22:46 リセットすること：休息の重要性

27:49 サーフィンの旅：個人的な経験とインスピレーション

32:18 停滞を突破する：トレーニングとメンタル戦略

35:19 パドリングの重要性

36:37 サーフィンの芸術：競技と表現のバランス

42:47 すべての波を楽しむ：マインドセットと道具の選択

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I’m stoked to have Ridge Lenny (@ridgelenny) in this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast! A pro surfer who's constantly pushing the limits of surfing from small waves to some of the heaviest surf at Jaws. Brother and tow partner to Kai Lenny, Ridge shares what it’s like surfing Jaws, how to practice airs, and his secret to progressing in both small and big waves.

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Chapters

00:00 The Challenge of Surfing: Small vs. Big Waves

01:34 Innovative Training Techniques for Surfing

5:44 The Joy of Experimentation in Surfing

9:19 Cross-Training: The Benefits of Diverse Water Sports

11:22 Foiling: A Game Changer for Surfing Technique

14:36 Physical Conditioning and Breath Training for Big Waves

18:08 Memorable Waves: Stories from Jaws

25:18 Paddle Training for Jaws

26:44 The Art of Commitment in Big Wave Surfing

29:23 Rethinking Technique in Surfing

35:41 The Mental Challenges of Surfing

37:38 The Importance of Surrounding Yourself with Talent

39:44 Rebuilding Technique for Better Performance

41:43 The Pursuit of Perfection: Small Waves to Big Waves

44:07 Having Kai Lenny as a Tow Partner 

46:45 Milestones in Surfing: The Waves of Ridge’s Life

49:48 Setting Intentions on a Wave 

51:08 Best Surf Break in the World for Ridge Lenny

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In this week’s episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, we have Miguel of iSurfMex (@isurfmex). The go-to guy for organizing trips to Salina Cruz, Mexico, he’s guided the Snapt5 team, the Album team, the Parker Brothers, Steph Gilmore, Lakey Peterson, and many more.Tune in as we discuss how to score one of the best right-hand point breaks on the planet,  which board to bring, avoiding common mistakes, and how to get paddle-fit for your next trip to one of Mexico’s top surf destinations.

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Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Salina Cruz Surfing 02:53 The Allure of Getting Barreled 05:48 Navigating the Challenges of Surfing 09:02 The Importance of Local Knowledge 11:55 Understanding Surf Conditions 15:13 The Role of Guides in Surfing 18:10 Community and Surf Etiquette 21:04 Building Relationships with Locals 24:01 Choosing the Right Surf Guide 32:06 Connecting with Local Communities 35:20 The Thrill of Surfing in Mexico 40:05 Navigating Surf Conditions 45:20 Preparing for Surfing Adventures 51:02 Choosing the Right Equipment 01:01:10 Final Thoughts and Recommendations

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In this week’s episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, we have Mateus Herdy (@mateusherdy)—pro surfer, one of the best aerialists in the world according to Stab, and Brazil’s next superstar according to the WSL. You won’t want to miss this episode as he talks about improving his turns and barrels in heavy waves like Pipe, his preparation for the CT, and why Brazil produces so many pro surfers.

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Chapters:

00:00 Intro

02:10 Brazilian Culture and Competition

06:18 Diversity in Brazil

09:02 Competitor vs Free Surfer

11:49 Preparing for the Challenger Series

14:35 Navigating the Challenges of Pipe

23:25 Working on Power Surfing

26:47 On Surf Progression

30:15 Surf Coach Leandro Dora

33:16 Continuous Improvement in Surfing

36:50 Improving Your Top Turn

39:10 Learning from Peers

39:47 The Brazilian Surfing Community

43:14 Board Selection

49:22 What’s Your Intention When You’re Surfing?

52:35 Twin Fins

55:23 If You Had to Surf The Same Wave for the Rest of Your Life

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In this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, we have two-time world champion and three-time Pipe Masters champion, the surfing legend Tom Carroll together with breathwork expert, meditation teacher, and surfer, Marcus Hamil. Together, they’ve created Breathwork for Surfers, a program designed to help surfers improve mental clarity, breath control, and overall performance in the water. You definitely don’t want to miss this episode as we discuss how to stay calm while the set of the day holds you down, the training techniques they use to prepare for challenging conditions, and the importance of paddle fitness.

Use discount code "GOSURF99" to get AU$50 off their Breathwork for Surfers course at https://breathworkforsurfers.com.au/

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Chapters:

00:00 Intro

02:14 Tom Carroll’s Freak Injury

06:25 Calming the Mind for Performance

09:45 Breathwork Techniques for Surfers

13:50 Understanding Flow State in Surfing

15:55 Breath Control Lets You Stay in the Flow State

17:46 Practical Breath Exercises

21:08 Breathe Through Your Nose, Not Your Mouth

23:15 Breath of Fire Demo to Activate the System

28:20 How to Stay Calm During Wipeouts

38:50 Transforming Fear into Fun

41:45 Understanding Fear and Risk Management in Surfing

46:28 The Mental Game: Overcoming Negative Thoughts

51:32 The Importance of Paddle Fitness for Surfers

57:57 What’s Your Intention When You’re Surfing?

58:45 If You Had to Surf The Same Wave for the Rest of Your Life

59:43 Your Ideal Surfboard for that Same Wave

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In this week’s episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, we have surf coach Nette Klement ( @neeetteee ) who works with Surfing Your Fears, the Salty Souls, and the Salty Club. Nette has an incredible approach to helping surfers overcome their fears in the water, from understanding currents to dealing with long hold downs and from helping surfers with their paddling technique to surfing bigger waves. Originally from Holland, she also shares her journey from learning to surf in the inconsistent waves of the Netherlands to navigating some of the world’s heaviest right-hand point breaks in El Salvador.

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Chapters

00:00 Intro

04:54 Overcoming Personal Challenges in Surfing

11:05 Learning How to Surf on Your Backside

13:04 Learning How to Generate Speed on Your Backside with Surf Skate and Skateboard

20:09 The Journey from Holland to Surf Coaching in El Salvador

26:50 The Risks of Surfing Over Rocks vs Sand

33:54 Empowerment Through Surfing Retreats

35:06 The Importance of Maintaining Your Paddle Fitness

42:51 Final Thoughts and Connections

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In this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, I’m joined by North Shore legend and pro surfer Shayden Pacarro ( @shaydo.p ). Together, we dive into his approach to surfing and coaching, including how to better engage your rail during turns, the key to riding bigger waves, how to leverage your back foot for control and power, and the importance of paddling. 

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Chapters

00:00 The Foundation of Surfing Technique

02:10 The Key to Surfing Like Andy Irons

03:54 Finding Your Style in Surfing

08:22 The Role of Ego in Surfing

15:30 Understanding Foot Placement and Weight Distribution

25:47 Training Techniques for Surfers

34:17 Understanding Surf Techniques and Coaching

44:10 The Importance of Paddling and Positioning

52:27 Finding Balance in Surfing and Life

57:46 Intention and Mindset in Surfing

01:02:40 Dream Waves and Future Goals

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In this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, I’m joined by the team from Surf Simply, the world-renowned surf retreat in Nosara, Costa Rica, with a waitlist over 2 years! Coaching Director Harry Knight and Head Coach Jesse Carnes share some sage advice and walk us cheat codes, and drills you can use in any condition to take your surfing to the next level. If you’ve ever wondered why your cutbacks don’t feel right, how to make better use of smaller waves, what’s holding you back from reaching the next level, or the importance of paddling, this episode is packed with insights you won’t want to miss.

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Chapters

02:05 The Philosophy of Surf Simply

06:40 The Tree of Knowledge: A Surfing Roadmap

16:25 Advanced Basics: The Key to Progression

19:57 Cheatcode Drills: Using Your Hips

22:28 Cheatcode Drills: Finding the Right Volume

24:00 Cheatcode Drills: Carving in Whitewater

29:00 Whitewater as Gym Space for Surfers

31:49 Practice on Crappy Waves

34:37 Picking the Right Board For Progressing Efficiently

35:44 The Evolution of Surfboard Culture

37:03 More Tips for Intermediate Surfers

42:24 Building Paddle Fitness for Better Surfing

47:00 Mindset and Intentions When Surfing

49:57 If You Had to Surf The Same Wave For The Rest of Your Life

52:05 Your Ideal Surfboard on a Deserted Island

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In this week’s episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, I’m joined by Axel Lorentz, the legendary shaper from the Basque Country. When he was shaping for @pukasurf his boards made it to five out of six finals for Stab in the Dark. He is now shaping under his own label. Axel takes us behind the scenes to reveal what makes his designs excel for both pros and everyday surfers, why rails are one of the most important elements in a design, his views on volume, and the biggest mistakes people make when choosing a board.

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Chapters

00:00 The Art of Shaping Surfboards

02:52 Understanding Paddle Power and Training

06:10 Personalizing Board Design for Surfers

09:07 The Importance of Rails in Board Performance

11:58 Rocker and Volume: Key Elements in Board Design

14:52 Exploring Alternative Boards for Everyday Surfers

17:49 The Journey into Surfboard Shaping

29:46 The Art of Shaping: Understanding the Craft

32:41 Navigating the Pressure of Big Wave Shaping

38:31 The Balance of Speed and Control in Surfboard Design

40:55 Personalizing the Surf Experience: Shaping for Fun

44:48 Passing the Craft: A Legacy of Shaping

49:59 Finding Flow: The Importance of Routine in Shaping

51:57 Surfing Philosophy: Enjoying the Ride

55:44 Dream Waves: The Perfect Surf Spot

57:39 The Ultimate Board: Versatility in Design

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In this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, I’m joined by the legendary surf photographer Todd Glaser, who has spent decades traveling the globe with surfing icon Kelly Slater. Todd and Kelly recently released a stunning new book, “A Life of Waves”, a visual masterpiece showcasing some of Kelly’s most iconic moments. Don’t miss this episode as we dive into fascinating behind-the-scenes stories from their adventures and explore the secrets behind Kelly Slater’s success. 

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Chapters

00:00 The Art of Surf Photography 

12:51 Surf Adventures With Kelly Slater

20:07 Kelly Slater Winning Pipe Masters at 50

30:51 Passion and Precision in Surfing

33:47 The Mad Scientist of Surfing

36:14 The Balance of Analysis and Intuition

39:39 The Evolution of Surfing Techniques

42:32 Capturing the Perfect Wave

46:22 The Excitement of the Wave Pool

50:53 Moments of Triumph in Surfing

52:20 Personal Philosophy of Surfing

57:00 The Ideal Wave and Board Choice

01:01:32 Legacy of Surfing and Future Generations

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Ben went from almost quitting surfing because he struggled so much with paddle fitness to charging the Northshore of Hawaii by using the Basis Paddle Trainer. We go on a deep dive on his experience as one of the original beta testers of the paddle trainer prototypes, his 17 year journey as a surfer living in Hawaii and on the east coast, how he tried nearly everything to train his paddling but nothing worked, his first impressions of using it, how using it for just 20 minutes a week has allowed him to continue to chase swells for years now, and how it has changed his life.

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Chapters

00:00 The Struggle of Surfing and Finding Fitness

02:02 The Importance of Paddle Fitness

05:53 Introducing the Basis Surf Paddle Trainer

07:51 Ben's Journey: From Struggles to Success

11:49 Learning from Black Belt Surfers

20:11 The Role of Technique and Conditioning in Paddling

24:03 Finding Flow in Paddle Training

30:07 The Evolution of Surf Training

34:53 Transitioning to the East Coast Surf Scene

38:45 Facing Challenges and Finding Solutions

44:03 Discovering New Training Methods

51:01 The Joy of Surfing Again

56:47 Final Thoughts and Wisdom for Surfers

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On this week’s episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, I’m joined by one of the most innovative surfboard shapers on the planet, Donald Brink (@donaldbrink). His asym board with Matt Biolos was chosen by Mick Fanning as the winner of the 2022 Electric Acid Surfboard Test. In this episode, we dive deep into the details of board design - rails, rocker, volume, and more - to help you understand what to look for in a board to match your skill level and the conditions you face. Get ready, as this episode will completely reshape the way you think about your next board choice.

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Chapters 00:00 Riding Waves, Not Boards

02:51 The Art and Science of Surfboard Design

05:55 Winning The Electric Acid Surfboard Test With Mick Fanning

09:12 Understanding Performance: The Role of Design

12:07 Challenging Conventional Surfboard Norms

15:07 The Importance of Technique in Surfing

18:01 Designing for Everyday Surfers

20:56 Embracing Asymmetry in Surfboard Design

24:09 High Performance vs. Low Performance Boards

26:58 Finding the Right Board for Your Skill Level

30:13 The Balance of Challenge and Comfort in Surfing

33:12 Experimentation in Surfboard Shaping

35:51 The Future of Surfboard Design

45:28 The Art and Science of Surfboard Design

51:06 Innovative Concepts in Surfboard Shaping

56:29 Understanding Volume in Surfboard Performance

01:01:04 The Intention Behind Surfing

01:07:52 Choosing the Right Board For The Wave

01:12:10 The Journey of Surfing and Self-Discovery

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This episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, I’m joined by Doug Silva (@dougsilvadotcom), the coach behind pro surfers Seth Moniz, Kai Lenny, and Koa Rothman. Doug shares his insights on refining cutbacks, maximizing wave power, and the small, game-changing tweaks that can elevate your surfing to the next level. If you’re looking to improve your surfing, you’re not going to want to miss this episode.

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Surf Coaching and Techniques

02:56 Equipment Choices and Their Impact on Performance

05:54 Coaching Strategies for Competitive Surfers

08:48 The Importance of Body Mechanics in Surfing

12:13 Creating Confidence and Energy in Surfers

15:10 Navigating Competitive Surfing Challenges

18:10 The Role of Mental Preparation in Surfing

20:59 Seth's Journey and Transformation in Competition

23:56 Looking Ahead: Preparing for Future Competitions

32:06 Mastering Paddling Techniques

38:23 Coaching Surfers: Koa and Kai

48:06 The Evolution of Surfing with Kelly

53:29 Surfing for Everyday Surfers

01:02:47 The Art of Surfing: Intentions and Rhythms

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In this week’s episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, I’m joined by Olympic Surf Coach Marcelo Castellanos (@marcelocsurf), a former professional surfer and coach behind some of the world’s best surfers like Bryan Perez. Marcelo, also the co-founder of the world-class academy Puro Surf in El Salvador, gives us an inside look at training for the Olympics and shares practical tips to help everyday surfers improve their technique, flow and training. Tune in for expert advice from one of the world’s top surf coaches.a

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Chapters

00:00 Entering the Flow State

05:46 Holistic Coaching Approach

11:49 Mental Preparation for Big Waves

17:58 Technical Foundations in Surfing23:53 Understanding Internal and External Forces

31:21 The Art of Surfing: Closing the Circle

38:27 Training vs. Free Surfing: Finding the Balance

42:47 Land Training: Preparing for the Waves

50:43 The Journey of a Coach: From Surfer to Mentor

56:35 Setting Expectations: The Reality of Surfing

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In this week’s episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, I’m joined by Kahea Hart ( @hawaiisurfandperformance ), a former competitive surfer and the coach behind some of the world's best surfers like Olympian Brisa Hennessy and WSL Big Wave World Champion Billy Kemper. Kahea also works with everyday surfers, and in this episode, we explore his methods for developing world-class talent, along with the essential training all surfers can do to take their surfing to the next level.

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Chapters

00:00 The Importance of Physical Training for Surfers

01:46 Experiences at the Olympics: Coaching Brissa Hennessy

10:07 Training Techniques for Elite Surfers

18:44 Paddling Techniques and Their Importance

24:53 Foundation Training: A Game Changer for Surfers

32:10 Common Mistakes of Everyday Surfers

39:46 Advanced Techniques for Better Surfing

50:03 Final Thoughts and Personal Insights

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How much can fitness really impact your surfing? In this week’s episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, I’m joined by Coach Lenny V (@coachlennyv) and Cooper Walters (@cooper_walters)  to share how dropping 30 pounds has completely transformed my surfing. From quicker pop-ups, catching more waves and surfing for longer. If you're ready to take your fitness and surfing to the next level, you’re not going to want to miss this episode!

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Transformation Journey

03:01 Adherence and Accountability in Dieting

05:58 The Importance of Protein and Caloric Balance

08:55 Surprising Weight Loss Insights

11:46 Physical Benefits of Weight Loss on Surfing

15:01 Paddling Power and Weight Loss

18:08 Training for Surfing Performance

20:59 Building a Sustainable Fitness Program

23:54 The Role of Coaching in Transformation

27:13 Mental Discipline and Overcoming Food Addiction

30:09 Strategies for Consistency and Success

33:04 The Importance of Systems in Dieting

35:57 Final Thoughts on Transformation and Fitness

Lean Bulk Masterclass

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In this week’s episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, I’m joined by Brenden Margieson (@margomargs), hailed by many as the world’s ‘best-ever free surfer.’ Margo’s iconic style has left a lasting mark on generations of surfers, and in this episode, we’re lucky to have him share his wisdom on surfing. From mastering carves and roundhouse cutbacks to developing your natural style and refining your positioning and timing, this episode is packed with invaluable tips to level up your surfing. Don’t miss the chance to learn from one of the best in the game!

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Chapters

00:00 The Art of Spontaneity in Surfing

03:11 Brendan Margason: A Journey Through Surfing

06:02 Evolution of Surfboards: From Thrusters to Quads

08:50 The Influence of Surfing Environment on Style

11:45 Board Design and Personal Preferences

15:04 Adapting Technique with Age

17:53 The Vesper: A New Era in Surfing

20:48 Training and Maintaining Surfing Skills

24:00 Emotional Connection to Surfing

26:53 Chasing the Perfect Wave

30:14 The Future of Surfing: Learning and Progressing

33:06 Ideal Surf Conditions and Equipment

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In this week’s episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, I’m joined by Craig from The Surfboard Guide (@thesurfboardguide), a seasoned surfboard reviewer known for his detailed reviews of everything from high-performance shortboards to midlengths, alternative boards, and hybrids. Being someone who can surf them all really well, Craig has a really unique perspective that’s super helpful for anyone trying to figure out their next board. So, if you’re looking for a new board, you’re not going to want to miss this episode, as we dive deep into finding the right board for your skill level and preferences, fin set ups, and the most versatile board to add to your quiver. 

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Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Frustration with Surfing Space 03:08 Craig's Surfing Journey and Injuries 07:27 Balancing Shortboards and Alternative Craft 09:05 Taking Care of Yourself as You Get Older 10:59 The Influence of Skateboarding on Surfing 14:49 Transitioning from Snowboarding to Surfing 17:10 Epiphanies and Breakthroughs in Surfing 19:03 Trends in Board Design: Twin Fins and Mid-Lengths 23:19 The Evolution of Board Design 25:12 Importance of Finding the Right Board 26:08 The Importance of Regular Surfing and Physical Condition 28:02 Exploring Different Surfboard Shapes and Designs 30:28 The Appeal of Asymmetrical Boards 31:28 The Rise of Mid-Length Boards 34:21 The Popularity of Twin Fins 39:02 The Impact of Fins on Surfboard Performance 42:27 Considering Other Factors for Surfing Improvement 46:20 The Desire for Speed and Progression in Surfing 52:59 The Allure of Rocky Point in Hawaii 54:30 The Versatility of Christenson and Lane Splitter Boards

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In this week’s episode, we’re joined by Matt Pagan (@matt_pagan), a former pro surfer, impressive shaper, and surf coach who runs his own surf school. In the podcast, Matt highlights the significance of paddling and weight distribution in catching waves, along with tips on turning midlengths. So tune in and don’t miss this episode as we discuss the importance of finding the right board size and volume for your skill level!

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction and Background

03:01 Finding the Right Board Size

09:38 Mastering Paddling Technique

19:19 Understanding Volume and Lift

26:15 Balancing Technique and Wave Count

28:13 The Importance of Mentors and Coaches

28:42 Choosing the Right Surfboard

31:36 Riding Larger Boards in Big Waves

34:58 The Advantage of Being a Shaper and Surfer

38:18 Insights into Turning on Mid-Length Boards

50:40 The Significance of Paddling in Surfing

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In this episode of the Basis Surf Podcast, Ron Shine (@boardporn) joins me to guide you through choosing your next surfboard. With a collection of over 100+ surfboards, Ron’s collection has it all—from see-through 3D printed designs to asymmetricals and high-performance shortboards. Whether you're looking to add a new piece to your quiver or just curious about the latest trends, you won't want to miss this episode.

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction and the Importance of Trying Different Surfboards

13:05 The Art of Collecting and Experimenting with Surfboards

21:04 Exploring New Technologies in Surfboard Construction

25:21 The Influence of Top Surfers on Board Technology Acceptance

27:38 Introduction and Discussion on Alternative Board Designs

31:23 Recommendation: Dan Mann's Unique Board Designs

35:41 Exploring Different Board Designs and Innovations

48:34 Favorite Surfers to Watch

52:06 Dream Surf Spot and Ideal Surfboard

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In this episode, I interview Parker Coffin (@parkercoffin), one of my favorite free surfers. He’s a goofy footer that shreds in big waves and small waves, and hucks crazy airs. Stab called him one of the best free surfers in the world. In this episode, Parker gives us insight into what makes his surfing so good, from how to surf with more power, tips to surfing backside, and how to get your bottom turn dialed. If you want to take your surfing to the next level, you’re not going to want to miss this episode.

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Chapters

00:00 Harnessing the Power of the Wave

05:26 Growing Up with a Surfing Sibling

13:45 The Analytical Approach to Surfing

19:39 The Challenges and Opportunities of Being a Goofy Footer

25:42 Passion and Dedication: Keys to Improvement

32:25 Exploring the Differences Between Frontside and Backside Surfing

34:23 Tips for Generating Speed and Making Turns on the Backhand

44:30 The Development of the CI Pro Board: Iterations and Adjustments

48:21 Adapting to Conditions and Finding the Right Equipment

58:45 The Endless Possibilities of Surfing at Cloudbreak

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Dane Gudauskas (@danedamus), a pro surfer from South California and one of the makers of the famous Rocket Wide and G Skate surfboards by Channel Islands (@cisurfboards), joins me in this week’s episode of Basis Surf Podcast. Dane discusses how to make your surfing flow, body positioning and how to perfect your cutback. We also talked about Positive Vibe Warriors, a foundation that Dane and his brother started to give back to youth and make surfing accessible for all. If you’re looking for valuable tips on how to improve your style and technique, make sure to check out the whole episode!

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Chapters

00:00 Growing Up Surfing with Brothers

08:44 The Journey of a Shaper

13:24 The RocketWide: User-Friendly Performance

19:10 The G-Skate: Blending Tradition and Innovation

25:05 Surfing Style and Stance: Finding the Right Balance

30:42 Mastering Backhand Carves and Timing

42:29 Thrills and Challenges of Big Wave Surfing

50:43 Innovative Board Shapes with Donald Brink

55:04 Promoting Accessibility and Safety in Surfing

59:28 Finding Harmony and Immersion in Surfing

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Devon Howard (@devon_howard), a pioneer of midlength surfing and the designer of the Channel Islands Mid (aka CI Mid), joins us on this week’s episode of the Basis Surf Podcast. Devon shares his approach to riding midlengths and offers tips on how to better position yourself on a wave and execute better bottom turns and cutbacks. Whether you're new to midlengths or a seasoned egg rider, this episode offers valuable insights on improving your style, enhancing your technique, and selecting the right midlength for you. Don't miss this deep dive into midlength surfing with one of the best in the game!

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Mid-Length Surfing

13:02 Technique: Staying Committed to the Rail

28:49 The Importance of Style in Surfing

34:11 Weight Distribution and Shifting

45:17 Style: Making the Difficult Look Easy

46:43 Achieving Good Style: Body Positioning and Hand Placement

57:29 Choosing the Right Mid-Length Board and Fin Setup

01:17:47 The Art of Catching Waves: Positioning and Timing

01:26:51 Favorite Surf Spots: A Personal Perspective

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Zeke Lau (@zekelau), a native Hawaiian pro surfer joined me in this week’s episode of Basis Surf Podcast to share his journey and approach to training and competing on the championship tour. Tag along as we dive deep into his training process, the importance of paddling, and the role of technique and mindset in his surfing.

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Chapters

00:00 Mastering Technique and Shifting Weight

04:50 The Unconventional Approach to Surfing

12:49 Adapting to Different Types of Waves

24:33 The Importance of Paddling

29:34 The Psychological Edge of Paddling Training

30:58 Paddling Endurance and Training

33:53 Riding Bigger Waves at Pipeline

38:24 The Significance of Equipment and Working with a Local Shaper

48:09 The Technical Aspects of Surfing

53:07 The Experience of Fatherhood

55:26 Working with a Local Surf Brand

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Chris Gentille, the owner of Pilgrim Surf + Supply (@pilgrimsurfsupply), joined me in this week’s episode of Basis Surf Podcast to talk about the importance of choosing the right board, the concept of edge boards, his background as an artist and how he directed the film “Self Discovery For Social Survival,” and the connection between skateboarding and surfing.

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction and the Community at Pilgrim Surf Supply

02:24 Chris's Introduction to Surfing and Skateboarding

05:17 The Scarcity and Desirability of Surfing in the Northeast

10:24 The Origin and Meaning of the Name 'Pilgrim'

16:38 From Florida to Owning a Surf Shop in Brooklyn

28:33 The Versatility of Gliders: Riding Small Waves at High Speeds

35:10 Exploring Edge Boards: A Unique Surfing Experience

43:17 The Importance of Bottom Contours and Rail Design

44:43 The Resurgence of George Green's Designs

49:06 The Diverse Community of Shapers and Surfers at Surf Supply

56:17 The Creative Process Behind 'Self Discovery for Social Survival'

01:09:12 The Significance of Style in Surfing

01:18:42 The Benefits of Riding Different Types of Surfboards

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Eric Arakawa (@arakawasurfboards), the shaper for over ten World Champions, including Andy Irons, Jack Robinsons, and Michael and Derek Ho, joined me in this week’s Basis Surf Podcast episode to share his insights on shaping boards for these world-class surfers and to discuss how each board was crafted to help them perform at their best.

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction and the Impact of Small Changes in Surfboard Design

03:02 The Importance of Balance in Board Performance

05:27 Refining Board Designs Based on Surfer Feedback

09:08 Analyzing Performance and Making Improvements

12:04 The Joy of Seeing Surfers Excel on Arakawa Boards

30:10 The Art of Last-Minute Board Changes

33:23 Shaping Boards for Pros

39:37 The Challenges and Rewards of Shaping Boards for Surfers

45:27 Building a Quiver: Considerations for Everyday Surfers

48:58 Delivering an Experience: Tailoring Boards to Customer Needs

55:31 The Importance of Teamwork in Shaping Boards

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Surfer: @father._.sean

📸: @john_hook

Philippe Malvaux ( @philippemalvaux_surfcoaching ) is a former ASP judge, coach, and the team manager for Hurley and during his time has worked with and coached an incredible list of pro surfers including Kanoa Igarashi, Julian Wilson, Carissa Moore and John John Florence to name a few. In this week’s episode of Basis Surf Podcast, we delve into what he does with the big names to get them surfing so good, his adventures as a team manager for Hurley, his tips and tricks to better carves, and how to efficiently generate speed on a wave.

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction and Background

13:37 The Importance of Building Relationships and Creating Good Memories

25:26 Improving the Forehand Carving Turn: Philippe's Work with Kanoa Igarashi

30:23 Analyzing Footage and Going Backward: Finding the Root Cause of Technical Issues

32:23 The Importance of Speed in Surfing

35:49 Generating Speed through Intention and Wave Usage

39:15 Body Positioning for Speed and Power

46:56 Coaching Approach: Video Analysis and Personalized Feedback

01:03:51 The Value of Sharing Knowledge in Surfing

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Surfing with icebergs in Iceland, dodging sharks at Trestles, and scoring double overhead waves at Manhattan Beach - in this episode of the Basis Podcast, pro surfer and filmmaker, Hunter Jones (@hunterjones), discusses all this and shares his experience with oxygen deprivation training with big wave legend Laird Hamilton.

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Chapters

00:00 The Journey of a Pro Surfer: From South Bay to the World

03:54 Transitioning from Longboarding to Shortboarding: A Surfer's Story

07:05 Inside the World of Surfing: Hunter Jones' Career and Experiences

23:12 From WSL to Branching Out: A Surfer's Journey

29:37 Unique Surfing Experiences: Iceland, Sharks, and More

42:30 The Power of Intentions: Catching Waves with Purpose

44:27 Inspiring Others: Sharing the Passion for Surfing

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Adam Knox ( @adamknox_ ) is a former pro that's the younger brother of legendary rail surfer Taylor Knox and has coached some of the best up and coming pro surfers like Caity Simmers, Kade Matson, Tia Blanco, and many more. With his expertise in kinesiology, we dive deep into technique, energy leaks, using surf skates as a tool, and how to improve your turns. 

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction and the Importance of Technique

03:38 Adam's Background and Challenges

10:16 Surfing at 60% and Making Finals

14:29 Taylor Knox and Surfing Competitions

23:46 Using Surfskates as a Training Tool

25:07 Learning from Coaches and Studying Footage

26:05 The Challenges of Surfing

32:12 The Importance of Body Positioning and Weight Distribution

39:08 Mastering Paddling Technique

41:03 Coaching Professional Surfers to Success

43:47 Analyzing and Emulating Successful Surfers

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In this week’s episode, Duke Aipa (@aipasurf), son of the legendary Hawaiian Shaper Ben Aipa, joins us to share the backstory of his father’s inventions, the "Swallow tail" and "The Sting" style boards and discusses how he continues his dad’s legacy by combining elements of past and present to create innovative boards like the Dark Twinn, the Modern Sting and the Wrecking Ball. 

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction and the Legacy of Ben Aipa

05:38 The Invention of the Sting

13:19 Duke Aipa's Unique Designs: The Dark Twinn and the Wrecking Ball

28:49 Finding the Right Foot Position on a Twin Fin

39:18 The Wrecking Ball: A Super Groveler with Unique Design Characteristics

41:14 Conclusion and Future Innovations

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In this week’s podcast episode, join me and Leah Dawson ( @leahloves ) as we dive deep about finding the magic spots on your board to improve your style in surfing and how to fix your stance for generating more speed.

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Chapters

00:00 The Art of Style: Becoming One with the Wave

04:42 The Progression of Women's Surfing: Opportunity and Experience

08:59 Studying Lineups: The Key to Catching More Waves

27:34 Mastering Paddling Skills and Efficiency

30:57 Unlocking Your Feet for Successful Surfing

36:44 Exploring Different Surf Craft

43:08 Developing Personal Style in Surfing

45:00 Finding Joy in Standing and Going Fast

50:15 Improving Posture and Maneuverability

51:14 Leah's Retreats and Courses

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In this week's podcast, the shaper behind Kelly Slater’s magic boards, @dan__mann, joined me to talk about the secrets of making boards that are high performance enough for the pros but also super user friendly for the everyday surfer.

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction and Background

03:42 The Design Principles of the Dominator Boards

14:40 The Influence of High-Performance Shaping on User-Friendly Boards

26:09 The Role of Paddling Skills in Surfing

28:06 Finding the Right Balance: Volume and Planing Surface for Small Waves

39:03 Collaborating with Kelly Slater: Designing High-Performance Boards

53:09 The Importance of Physical Fitness and Paddle Speed in Surfing

55:53 Embracing the Process: Trying Different Boards for Optimal Performance

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@wooly_macpherson_surf_coach of Wooly TV, a surfboard reviewer and surf coach shared with us the boards that blew his mind. He dove deep into the tips on how to get better at surfing and how to find the perfect board for you.

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction

00:42 Story behind the Massive Wave

03:32 Early Surfing Experience

05:29 Growing Up in Mandurah

06:08 Free Diving and Surfing

06:31 Getting into Competitive Surfing

08:21 Struggles and Overcoming Hurdles

10:31 Mental Preparation for Competitions

13:44 Technique and Unlocking Potential

15:00 Importance of Paddling Technique

19:31 Takeaways from Paddling Technique

22:45 Choosing the Right Board

24:53 Importance of Volume in Boards

28:16 Bigger Framed Surfers and Board Recommendations

33:10 Performance Boards for Bigger Surfers

34:00 Favorite Mid-Length Boards

34:14 Surprising Boards: The Big Baron

38:15 The JS Baron Flyer Twin

40:15 The Slater Designs Flat Earth

50:04 Favorite Board for Small Waves: The Damn Animal

51:54 Most Popular Boards at the Surf Shop

55:25 Tips for Improving Surfing as You Get Older

59:02 Surfing One Wave for the Rest of Your Life: Snapper Rocks

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@antoineallain, a former competitive surfer and coach shared valuable tips with us on how to approach your bottom turns like a tiger and to explode into your top turns and many other interesting topics.

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction and Anton's Surfing Style

08:40 Transitioning from Beach Breaks to Point Breaks

15:19 Mastering Airs and Competition Success

30:25 The Importance of a Good Bottom Turn

37:07 Etiquette in Crowded Lineups

45:39 The Role of Coaches in Surfing

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In this week’s podcast, I had the chance to talk to surfboard reviewer Thomye of @thomyesurfs who probably surfs waves that are the smaller everyday mushy beach breaks that a lot of us surf regularly. We talked about the surfboards that changed his life, how he optimizes his boards, and a ton of other helpful tips.

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Chapters

00:00 Getting Started in Surfing

04:51 The Importance of Consistency in Surfing Progression

08:09 The Impact of Equipment on Surfing Performance

12:31 Plateaus in Surfing Progression

13:26 Choosing the Right Surfboard

14:52 Surfing Small Waves

19:38 The Impact of Volume on Surfing Performance

27:21 Finding the Right Volume for Your Surfing

29:47 Favorite Boards for Small Waves

31:13 The Mashup and Baked Potato Boards

31:42 Comparison between the Mashup and Baked Potato

34:07 Preference for the Mashup over the Baked Potato

35:01 Preference for the FT over the Baked Potato

36:27 Preference for the Quad Setup on the FT

38:16 The Benefits of Experimenting with Different Boards

39:13 The Negative Impact of Riding a Bad Board

40:12 The Influence of Kelly Slater on Surfing

43:02 The Importance of Filming and Analyzing Surfing Footage

46:23 Overcoming Fear and Learning to Do Airs

50:14 Tips for Older Surfers

54:04 Favorite Mid-Length Boards

57:24 The Positive and Negative Impact of Kelly Slater on Surfing

01:01:15 Dream Wave and Surfing with Friends

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Clayton Nienaber, the surf coach of @ombesurf joins me in this week’s podcast to reveal the key to unlocking better surfing by understanding the mechanics of a wave and learning about speed, power, and flow.

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Chapters

00:00 Starting with a Passion for Surfing

04:15 Transitioning to Board Shaping

07:41 The Importance of Making Mistakes

10:28 Understanding Surfing Levels: Freeze, Flight, Fight, Flow

13:22 The Relationship Between Speed, Power, and Flow

19:11 The Power and Energy of Waves

21:04 Surfing with Speed, Power, and Flow

25:13 The Importance of Early Bottom Turns

28:07 The Combination of Rider Input and Wave Power

30:36 Transitioning Between Different Board Designs

40:16 Choosing the Right Board for Different Waves

42:10 Using Cameras to Analyze Wave Performance

44:35 The Importance of Reading the Bottom of the Wave

45:38 The Process of Learning to Surf

47:00 Understanding Different Parts of the Wave

48:56 The Debate: Head Up vs Head Down When Paddling

58:01 Using Surfskate to Improve Surfing Technique

01:05:39 Teaching Sensation Rather than Replicating Surfing

01:09:04 The Showdown: Head Up vs Head Down Paddling

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In this podcast I interviewed Dave Allee the founder of @almondsurfboards and talked about how with the right attitude and the right equipment, even 2 ft can be firing, which is their company ethos. It’s a super interesting discussion about the right craft for small waves including midlengths, longboards, and single fins.

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction and the Importance of Equipment

03:47 Origin Story of Almond Surfboards

05:45 Getting Started in Shaping

08:07 Transitioning to Alternative Boards

10:03 Benefits of Riding a Log

14:47 Influence of Newport Beach on Almond Surfboards

21:45 Regional Differences in Board Design

24:10 Choosing a Longboard

26:32 The Surf Nice Longboard Model

27:29 Sizing the Length of the Board

29:24 Choosing a Board for Beginners

31:19 The Benefits of Single Fins

32:10 Transitioning to Smaller Craft

36:00 The Philosophy of Mid-Length Boards

44:04 The 5'4" R Series Foamie

47:15 Working with Andy Nieblas

51:05 The Perfect Wave

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On this week’s podcast we have Matt Parker of @albumsurf, the creative shaper behind some of the most innovative alternative surfboards out there including asyms, twins, fishes, and more. @albumsurf has an incredible team of riders including @victorbernard0, @asher_pacey, @margomargs, and @josh_kerr84. Join us as he shares his journey into shaping and the process of creating unique boards for each of these unique surfers.

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Chapters 

00:00 Introduction and Alternative Boards

06:18 Understanding Asymmetrical Boards

14:21 Factors to Consider in Board Design

23:09 Choosing the Right Board

30:45 The Journey of Shaping

37:29 Building a Reputation and Shaping for High-Level Surfers

43:49 Shaping for Josh Kerr and Asher Pacey

45:43 Shaping for Margo

47:09 Designing Boards for Female Surfers

49:05 Boards Holding Female Surfers Back

50:03 Creating Boards for Coco Ho

51:23 Designing Boards for Women

53:47 Mistakes in Ordering and Picking Boards

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Victor Bernardo (@victorbernard0) is one of the most talented free surfers in the world with a silky but explosive style and in this podcast we dive deep into how he developed his style and technique,  the boards he rides from @albumsurf, and his journey through surfing. 

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Chapters

00:00 Introduction and Early Surfing Years

03:40 Growing Up in Brazil and Surfing Near Sao Paulo

08:00 Surfing Culture in Brazil

12:13 Getting Into Competing

16:10 Natural Talent and Hard Work

17:27 Working with Coaches

21:18 Impact of Coaching on Surfing Style

24:59 Influences on Surfing Style

28:15 Transition from Competing to Free Surfing

30:42 Collaboration with Album Surf

34:03 Experience with Asymmetrical Boards

39:49 Riding Twins and Adjusting to Different Boards

42:05 Transition to Living in the US

45:06 Living the Dream

48:30 Support from Sponsors

50:44 The VB Secret Menu

56:31 Competing with Alternative Boards

57:43 Advice for Everyday Surfers

59:19 Shout Outs

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In this episode, Anthony Spencer (@anthonyspenncer), a twin fin and longboard aficionado with silky style from Western Australia, discusses his approach to surfing, his experience riding different surfboard types and how they each influence his style, starting with shortboards and transitioning to longboards and then to twin fins. He also talks about the importance of matching boards to the surf conditions and the value of having a fitness routine to help prevent injuries instead of dealing with them after the fact. He also shares his insights on style, emphasizing the importance of slowing things down and proper weight distribution in turns. He also talks about how surfing boards by @thomassurfboards helped take his surfing to the next level.

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Chapters:

00:00 Introduction and Variety of Surf Craft

02:18 Getting Into Surfing and Transitioning to Longboarding

04:14 Transitioning from Shortboarding to Longboarding

06:34 Riding a Twinnie and Turning Techniques

08:33 Turning a Longboard vs. Turning a Twinnie 

10:26 Riding a Mid-Length Board

12:47 Tips for Turning a Log and a Twin Fin

17:51 Developing Style and Slowing Down

23:13 Approach to Surfing a Twinnie vs. a Shortboard

25:38 Training and Injury Prevention

30:36 Working with Shaper Thomas Bexon

41:12 Upcoming Film Projects

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Kassia Meador (@kassiasurf) shares her experiences and insights on longboarding. She starts out with her roots from surfing with her dad in C-Street and Malibu, to contests in Costa Rica and Australia and to eventually getting sponsored by Roxy. She shares her insights on noseriding and turning logs, emphasizing the importance of slowing down and moving with precision. She discusses her own take on style and her focus on refining skills by trying out as many boards as she can and talks about her unique surf retreats in Nicaragua with @riseupsurfretreats.

Check out her online course titled “Definitive Guide to Longboarding” at @theinertia.

If you’d like to try out high-vibe, low impact surf gear from kassiasurf.com, use our 20% off coupon code: SURFBASIS

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Chapters:

00:00 Introduction and Surfing Community

06:05 Memorable Surfing Experience

11:37 Getting Into Surfing

16:09 Career Takeoff

20:40 Approach to Surfing and Style

26:55 Tips for Beginner Longboarders

32:22 Noseriding as a Goofy-Foot

38:39 Focus on Surfing and Developing New Boards

49:38 Surf Retreats in Nicaragua

50:32 Activities on Surf Retreats

53:21 The Perfect Wave

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In this episode we have Noel Salas, surfboard reviewer and host of Surf ‘n Show (@surf_n_show). Known for his comprehensive surfboard reviews, Noel’s insights have become a trusted resource for surfers looking to invest in new gear. He discusses the process of dialing in surfboards, how to find the right volume, the importance of speed and rails in surfing, the progression of surfboard design, his favorite boards, transitioning between boards, the experience of surfing in a wave pool, and his top tips for how to improve as a surfer.

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Chapters:

00:00 The Importance of Speed and Rails in Surfing

01:35 Noel Salas’ Background

08:33 How Surf n Show Started

21:23 Progression in Surfboard Design

26:44 Favorite Boards and Dialing in Dimensions

35:27 Transitioning Between Boards

39:05 Wave Pool Surfing

39:10 Tips for Improving Surfing

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In this conversation, Sam Hammer (@hammered_sam) and David Santa Maria (@davidjames80) of @surfhealthpro discuss various aspects of surfing, including getting barreled and maintaining fitness for longevity in the sport. They emphasize the importance of choosing the right board, picking the right waves, taking off behind the peak, developing paddle fitness, and improving hip mobility and proper technique for pop-ups. They also discuss the value of patience in surfing, the process of overcoming fear and becoming comfortable in bigger waves and the influence of social media on surfing expectations. They also share some tips on health, PT, and rehab for beginner to intermediate surfers and talk about the importance of accountability in sticking to a plan.

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Chapters:

00:00 Introduction and Surfing in New Jersey

03:09 Discovering the Potential of Waves in New Jersey

11:31 Importance of Taking Off Behind the Peak

19:08 Board Choice for Getting Barreled

24:14 The Importance of Paddle Fitness

29:59 Maintaining Hip Mobility for Surfing

38:50 Technique and Training for the Pop-Up

42:37 Overcoming Fear and Getting Comfortable in Bigger Waves

46:31 The Importance of Picking the Right Waves

47:54 The Influence of Social Media on Surfing Expectations

48:52 The Value of Patience in Surfing

50:16 Maintaining Perspective and Enjoying the Ocean

51:16 Tips for Health, PT, and Rehab

52:40 The Importance of Accountability in Sticking to a Plan

53:10 Success Stories in Surfing Rehabilitation

55:08 Tips for Beginner to Intermediate Surfers

56:40 How to Reach Out for More Information

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Big wave pro surfer, @coconut_willie , shares his journey into surfing and his experiences at Jaws. The conversation covers key skills for surfing bigger waves, equipment preferences, and tips for backside barrel riding. He also shares stories about being a coconut distributor in Hawaii and compares climbing a tree to surfing a massive wave. He opens up about his most memorable wave ever and the thrills of big wave surfing.

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Chapters:

00:00 Introduction and Coconut Willie's Background

03:04 Crazy Coconut Stories

05:48 Journey into Big Wave Surfing

09:53 Progression in Surfing

12:41 First Experiences at Jaws

17:26 Key Skills for Surfing Bigger Waves

19:45 Equipment Preferences

20:15 Tips for Backside Barrel Riding

21:39 Most Memorable Wave

22:59 Conclusion

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In this episode, @ryanlovelace , a super innovative surfboard maker and creator, joins us. He shapes everything from crazy alternative boards to high-performance craft. He shares his experience on riding the V-Bowls, insights on midlengths, surfboard feelings, his fin setups, board testing, twin fin design, and his unique perspective. We’ll dive into all that and more, including the ins and outs of tuning your craft and picking the right board. Riding one of Ryan’s boards has been a mind-expanding experience for many, including me.

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Chapters:

00:00 Introduction and the Evolution of Midlength Boards

03:00 The Inspiration and Background of Shaping Midlength Boards

06:00 Defining the Purpose and Characteristics of Midlength Boards

09:00 The Versatility and Applicability of Midlength Boards

12:00 The Design Process and Evolution of the V-Bowls

18:00 V-Bowls to Thick Lizzy to FM

26:00 The Importance of Fin Setups in Shaping Boards

32:00 Shaping for High-Performance Surfers and the Surfer-Shaper Relationship

39:00 Shaping Boards for William Aliotti and the Unique Twinfin Design

47:43 Designing Boards for Speed and Control

49:07 Designing Boards for Different Surfers

51:03 Shaping Boards Based on Feedback and Experience

52:29 The Perspective of an Average Surfer

55:12 Mistakes in Board Selection

58:02 Closing Remarks and Shoutouts

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If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to catch a perfect wave at J Bay or get barreled in the Mentawais and see it exactly from the perspective of the surfer and know all the things that were going through @dylanlightfoot’s mind from a technique perspective than you need to check out this podcast. We break down several of his waves in detail that he caught using a special camera rig developed with @chrisrogers using @gopro cameras. Our conversation ranged from assessing the right maneuver, bottom turn technique, backfoot positioning for turns vs barrels, where to place your turn on the wave, managing speed, board selection for points vs small beachbreaks, what an advances surfer focuses on, gamechangers on your backhand, and all the fine points of barrel riding technique.

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Chapters:

00:00 Introduction and Excitement for J Bay

02:00 The Perfect Wave at J Bay

03:10 Analyzing GoPro Footage

04:22 Techniques for Bottom Turns

05:22 Weight Distribution and Foot Placement

06:44 Decision-Making Process for Maneuvers

08:28 Snap and Timing

09:54 Enjoying the Flow and Connection with the Wave

11:02 Backhand Surfing and Adjustments

13:05 Managing Speed and Positioning on the Wave

14:09 Snap and Timing

15:24 Self-Critique and Improvement

17:44 Choosing the Right Board for J Bay

20:34 Focus on Flow and Execution

24:38 Transition from Perfect Waves to Small Beach Breaks

28:54 Adapting to Small Beach Breaks

31:54 Improving Backside Surfing

36:37 Competing at J Bay and Surfing Against Heroes

38:54 Dealing with Nervousness and Pressure

43:48 Surfing a Bomb Barrel

46:37 Reading the Wave and Adjusting Speed

50:57 Navigating the Chandelier Section

53:16 Commitment in Barrel Riding

54:15 Scoring a Left Barrel

56:12 Technique for Backhand Barrel Riding

57:41 Managing Speed on the Backhand

58:38 Advantages of Backhand Barrel Riding

59:09 The Appeal of Mentawai Islands

59:37 Closing Remarks

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In this episode, we have @magnummartinez, an Olympic coach, a world champion in the master’s category, and a former pro. We discussed his approach to surfing, what’s the fastest way to improve, how to make adjustments in your technique, the interplay between style and technique, frontside top turns, common mistakes men and women make, and the importance of compression for turns. Definitely make sure to tune into this one!

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Chapters:

00:00 Introduction and Background

01:42 Getting into Surfing

04:37 Surfing in Venezuela

06:28 Challenges of Surfing in Venezuela

08:21 Improving as a Surfer

10:17 The Importance of Surfing in Subpar Conditions

11:17 Becoming a Better Surfer through Hard Work

13:41 Moving to California and Polishing Surfing Skills

15:30 The Relationship Between Technique and Style

20:38 Fixing Stance and Technique

27:54 Adjusting Stance and Technique in the Water

33:09 The Debate on Style in Surfing

37:49 Emphasis on Technique at Different Skill Levels

44:44 Common Technique Mistakes

50:28 Making Adjustments in Technique

51:51 Improving Technique: Arm Position and Body Compression

55:13 Repetition and Habit Formation

56:21 Contacting the Coach

57:17 Online Coaching and Training Camps

58:41 Supporting the Podcast

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@MattMeola is one of the world’s top aerial surfers and in this episode he shares tons of wisdom all about airs. He talks about how he got good at surfing, how his skating translated to surfing, surfing in Pipemasters and stories about some of the craziest airs he ever did. He also talks about the importance of wave reading and speed management and shares the most important thing to focus on for airs. He talks about the biggest game changers for progression, what it’s like pushing the limits, and how to accelerate your own progression. He also has an online course on the Inertia on how to do airs for those of you that want to develop your air game.

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Chapters:

00:00 Introduction and Background

02:15 Getting Into Surfing

04:26 Surfing for Fun

06:52 Landing the First Air

08:04 Skateboarding and Surfing

13:03 Doing Airs at Pipe

14:42 Transition to Elite Surfer

17:16 Creative Aerial Surfing

19:51 Commitment and Speed in Aerials

22:32 Walkthrough of Air #1

28:33 Walkthrough of Air #2

34:42 The Best Feeling in Surfing

40:49 Training for Difficult Maneuvers

45:10 The Importance of Filming and Comparing

48:10 Closing Remarks

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In this episode, we have @magnummartinez, an Olympic coach, a world champion in the master’s category, and a former pro. We discussed his approach to surfing, what’s the fastest way to improve, how to make adjustments in your technique, the interplay between style and technique, frontside top turns, common mistakes men and women make, and the importance of compression for turns. Definitely make sure to tune into this one!

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Chapters:

00:00 Introduction and Background

01:42 Getting into Surfing

04:37 Surfing in Venezuela

06:28 Challenges of Surfing in Venezuela

08:21 Improving as a Surfer

10:17 The Importance of Surfing in Subpar Conditions

11:17 Becoming a Better Surfer through Hard Work

13:41 Moving to California and Polishing Surfing Skills

15:30 The Relationship Between Technique and Style

20:38 Fixing Stance and Technique

27:54 Adjusting Stance and Technique in the Water

33:09 The Debate on Style in Surfing

37:49 Emphasis on Technique at Different Skill Levels

44:44 Common Technique Mistakes

50:28 Making Adjustments in Technique

51:51 Improving Technique: Arm Position and Body Compression

55:13 Repetition and Habit Formation

56:21 Contacting the Coach

57:17 Online Coaching and Training Camps

58:41 Supporting the Podcast

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In this episode we have @Isaacstant, a competitive pro surfer based in Maui who competes on the challenger series and was part of the crew that started paddling Jaws. Isaac shares his insights about how riding a step-up can improve your surfing, how surfing small waves is how you level up, improving your power surfing, breaking through plateaus, the nuances of weight distribution and generating speed, and the importance of paddling.  We will dive deep into Isaac’s approach to technique and all that he has in his head. 

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Chapters: 00:00 Introduction and Counterintuitive Approach to Surfing

02:19 Benefits of Riding a Step Up in Small Waves

06:11 Using Rail Properly and Developing a Strong Base

07:33 Common Issues for Intermediate Surfers

09:30 Importance of Critiquing and Watching Yourself Surf

13:20 Positioning and Weight Distribution on a Step Up

15:48 Getting into Surfing and Competitive Surfing

19:32 Overcoming Self-Doubt and Believing in Your Capabilities

25:36 The Drive to Improve and Avoiding Distractions

27:59 Surfing with a Purpose and Working on Cutbacks

39:39 Tips for Becoming a Better Power Surfer

46:29 Struggles and Breakthroughs in Developing Roundhouses and Carves

47:54 Discovering the Importance of Riding Bigger Boards

51:40 Improving Technique and Applying Pressure on the Rail

53:46 The Role of Diet, Nutrition, and Mindfulness in Surfing

55:14 The Benefits of Surfing Small Waves for Progression

56:43 The Combination of Technique and Mental Approach in Surfing

58:08 Developing Mental Toughness and Overcoming Self-Doubt

59:38 The Challenges of Competing and Maintaining Performance

01:06:59 The Importance of Paddling and Surf Fitness

01:13:25 Future Topics: Running a Surf School and Beginner Surfing Advice

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In this episode, we welcome back Richie Murua of @okia_surfing, the head ISA coach for the Guatemala team. Richie shares his insights on the kinetic chain of movement and how it can unlock your surfing, whether it’s really as simple as looking where you want to go or opening your arms to turn the surfboard, the secrets of weight distribution, the subtleties of pressure when doing a front leg extension, the correct stance to maximize speed generation, the exact place where you want your front foot placed on the surfboard, how to do a beach observation and catch more waves, the mental approach for overcoming waves out of your comfort zone, the three things that will knock you off your surfboard, and how he prepares his team for the ISA games. This is a must-listen for anyone who wants to improve their surf technique and learn from a top-level coach. Tune in and get ready to be blown away by Richie’s knowledge and passion. Full podcast out now on YouTube, Apple, Spotify, and wherever you find your podcasts!

If you are interested in transforming your physique this podcast with @RedBeltFitness / @coachlennyv is a must listen because we go deep into how they have helped people lose up to 50lbs of fat, how important weight management really is for surfers, the fundamental equation governing weight loss vs weight gain, the biggest mistakes people make when dieting, optimal nutrition for surfing including protein and carb intake before and after surfs, intermittent fasting, the mental battle of consistency and sticking to a diet, dealing with shoulder and knee injuries and maintaining mobility and fitness, and much more!

The crew at @RedBeltFitness /@coachlennyv  have also been kind enough to include the following free resources!

Free Training program: https://www.redbeltfitness.com/basis

Calorie and Protein Calculator: https://www.redbeltfitness.com/calorie-protein-calculator/

Goal Setting Calculator: https://www.redbeltfitness.com/goal_setting

@derekdunfee is a XXL big wave paddle award winner, photographer whose work has graced the cover of The Surfer's Journal, and published a riveting book about his big wave surfing journey called Waking Up in the Sea.  In this interview we go deep into everything from him cutting his teeth at Cloudbreak and Hawaii, his initial forays into surfing proper big waves at Mavericks including the award winning wave that changed his life forever, to his near drowning at Cortez Bank and how that inspired a pivot to photography, his recent book, and his mission to raise awareness around concussions. 

In this interview we go deep with surf coach Chapin Kreuter on how you can surf for 20 years and still surf bad, the key changes to his technique that took his surfing to a whole new level, the most common mistakes that he sees with his clients, how his background as a high-level soccer player translated to surfing, and much more! His account @surfprotechniques on YouTube is a treasure trove of advice that you should definitely check out.

In this interview we go deep with surf coach Jonny Seifert from @sunsetsessionsmexico based in Sayulita on surfing heavy barrels in mainland Mexico, cheat codes to accelerating your ocean knowledge and wave reading, the importance of the right mental approach to surfing, and a ton of good stories.

Richie Murua of Okia surfing talks us through his unconventional and analytical approach to surf technique and we go deep into breaking down the front side carve and backside bottom turn. In it we discuss the nuances of weight distribution, speed vs control, and how to develop more quickly as a surfer. It really made me question some of my long standing beliefs about the biomechanics of surfing and is one of the my favorite interviews I've done to date.

Corey Ross is a surf explorer that spends all his time analyzing maps and swell forecasts to score never before surfed waves in his home of Nova Scotia. Find out about his process and all the things he's learned along the way.

Joey Trisolini shoots some of the top professional surfers on the championship tour and lives on Oahu, Hawaii. In this podcast we'll talk about all the things he's learned watching some of the best surfers challenge themselves in the most challenging waves to help you improve as an everyday surfer.

Here we have my good friend Keola Simpson @keolasimpson who grew up on the north shore of Oahu and is one of the most knowledgeable people I know about the sport of surfing. Buckle in because this podcast is full of great stories and nuggets of wisdom to help your surf progression.