Chemist Confessions

#176) We tested these lineup of viral PDRN products!

Thu, 07 May 2026 01:00:00 -0700

We are reviewing five popular K-Beauty products to see if they actually live up to the hype. We break down the science behind different PDRN sources, explore the "50 peptides" marketing claims, and analyze clinical data to separate realistic skin improvements from clever lighting tricks. You will learn how these products perform on different skin types—from "sticky and drying" textures to clinical-grade results—so you can decide which formulas are worth your routine and which are just "science-flavored" fillers.

Shop other products tested on the CC podcast here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294

IOPE | XMD Stem III Clinical Recovery Serum 50ml: https://go.shopmy.us/p-56645998

MEDIHEAL | PDRN Lifting Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-56646034

DR.REJU-ALL | Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream 20ml: https://go.shopmy.us/p-56646069

REJURAN | Rejuran Turnover Ampoule C-PDRN 0.5% Renewing Serum for Smooth Texture & Glass Skin 1.01 Oz/30 mL: https://go.shopmy.us/p-56646122

NUMBUZIN | No.9 NAD+ PDRN Glow Boosting Toner: https://go.shopmy.us/p-56646193

Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

#175) Reviewing 2 Exosome Products!

Thu, 30 Apr 2026 01:00:00 -0700

We take an objective look at two polar opposite formulas—a $20 "junior" product and a $250 luxury serum—to see if the high science matches the high price tag. We break down the mysteries of sourcing, discuss why your 1% active might not be what it seems, and share our honest (and sometimes smelly) trial experiences. Whether you’re looking for genuine rejuvenation or just want to avoid lighting $500 on fire, we’ve got the data you need to navigate this rapidly changing landscape.

Products Mentioned: Shop everything mentioned in this video here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294

Check out the better oil https://chemistconfessions.com/products/the-better-oil

Try our Mr. Reliable https://chemistconfessions.com/products/mr-reliable-lightweight-moisturizer

Check out our newly facelifted Double Play Retinol! https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment
https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236391 MEDIK8 | Crystal Retinal 6 Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236422 (use code: CHEMISTCONFESSIONS for 15% off)
Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

#skincare #skincarescience #pdrnserum #pdrn #salmonpdrn

#174) PDRN Skincare: Longevity Cure or Just Hype?

Thu, 23 Apr 2026 01:00:00 -0700

Chemist Confessions Minis! https://chemistconfessions.com/shop/kits&minis

We're pickup where we left off with another science update episode! Today, we're diving into another buzzy ingredient in the "longevity" space: PDRN. In this episode, we go beyond the "salmon sperm" headlines to investigate the latest science update on plant-derived PDRN from peony & rose, discuss the potential impact of molecular weight, and discuss early looks of unique PDRN delivery systems. Let's navigate the complex clinical data behind these DNA fragments and see if they actually match up to the marketing hype.

Products Mentioned: Shop everything mentioned in this video here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294

Check out the better oil https://chemistconfessions.com/products/the-better-oil

Try our Mr. Reliable https://chemistconfessions.com/products/mr-reliable-lightweight-moisturizer

Check out our newly facelifted Double Play Retinol! https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment

https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236391

MEDIK8 | Crystal Retinal 6 Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236422 (use code: CHEMISTCONFESSIONS for 15% off)

Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

#skincare #skincarescience #pdrnserum #pdrn #salmonpdrn

#173) How About Exosomes in Skincare Now? (A 2026 Update)

Thu, 16 Apr 2026 01:00:00 -0700

Exosome is that $500 buzzword that's not going anywhere anytime soon. The claims have only gotten broader from healing, skin regeneration, eczema, anti-aging, to even alopecia. In this episode, we provide an update on any new data since our last deep dive last year. We discuss how these tiny lipid nanovesicles—ranging from 30 to 200 nanometers—function as "biological mail" that triggers collagen synthesis and other regenerative pathways. But do the theories really convert to proven topical benefits? We also tackle one of the most important things you should know about exosomes - sourcing. Does it matter if your exosomes come from humans, plants, or bacteria? And what sort of skin benefits could exosomes provide...if any.

Products Mentioned: Shop everything mentioned in this video here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294 Check out the better oil https://chemistconfessions.com/products/the-better-oil Try our Mr. Reliable https://chemistconfessions.com/products/mr-reliable-lightweight-moisturizer Check out our newly facelifted Double Play Retinol! https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236391 MEDIK8 | Crystal Retinal 6 Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236422 (use code: CHEMISTCONFESSIONS for 15% off) Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

#172) THEY CLAIM THIS WILL WORK! Reviewing Retinal products!

Thu, 09 Apr 2026 01:00:00 -0700

In this episode, we are diving deep into the retinal (retinaldehyde) landscape to see how current market offerings stack up. Following our technical breakdown of retinol versus retinal, we shift our focus to real-world testing of popular formulations from Krave Beauty, Prequel, Celimax, and Medik8. We examine the scientific validity of concentration ranges—from the entry-level 0.05% to the more intense 0.24%—and discuss how different textures and price points impact the user experience for various skin types. Whether you are a retinoid rookie or a seasoned pro, we provide the detailed assessment on the data to find the right one for your particular skinario.

Timestamps:

00:00 - Intro

02:18 - Product Aesthetics & Textures

08:35 - Krave Beauty 24 Retinal Decode

10:21 - Prequel Retinal Renewal Decode

15:48 - Celimax Vita-A Retinal Shot Decode

22:00 - Medik8 Crystal Retinal 6 Decode

23:51 - Is Retinal 11x faster than Retinol?

28:39 - Chemists' Favorite Retinal (Personal favorites and usage recommendations)

Products Mentioned: Shop everything mentioned in this video here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294 PREQUEL | Retinal Renew Retinaldehyde Gel: https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236222 CELIMAX | The Vita-A Retinal Shot Tightening Booster: https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236269 KRAVEBEAUTY | 24 Carrot Retinal Gentle 0 05 Retinal Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236391 MEDIK8 | Crystal Retinal 6 Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236422 (use code: CHEMISTCONFESSIONS for 15% off) Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

#171) We have to talk about this again: RETINOL VS RETINAL

Wed, 01 Apr 2026 01:00:00 -0700

We are diving back into the "rumor mill" of the retinoid world! Is Retinal actually better than Retinol, or is it just better marketing?
In this episode, we revisit the Retinol vs. Retinal debate with new 2026 data. We break down what the evidence says about the retinoid conversion pathway into retinoic acid. We look at the latest clinical evidence to help you decide if it’s time to switch your anti-aging active or stay the course with your current skincare routine.

Episode Timestamps
0:00 - Intro: Revisiting the Retinoid Rumor Mill
1:34 - Why Retinal (Retinaldehyde) is Growing in Popularity
2:01 - The Science of Retinoic Acid Conversion Steps
5:30 - What the Data Shows (Retinol vs. Retinal ex vivo Conversion)
9:15 - Retinal vs. Retinol: Potency & Efficacy Realities
14:40 - Is Retinal Actually Gentler? (Irritation & Skin Barrier)
18:20 - Debunking High-Concentration Retinoid Myths
23:55 - Reviewing Recent Retinal Product Launches
28:10 - How to Choose: Retinol or Retinal for your Skin Type?
36:22 - Final Verdict: Should You Switch Your Active?

Resources & Mentions

Retinal vs Retinol on the CC Blog: https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/retinal-is-it-better-than-retinol
Retinol vs Tretinoin: https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/tretinoin-vs-retinol
Follow us on IG : @chemist.confessions

#chemistconfessions #retinal #retinol #skincarescience #antiaging #retinaldehyde #skincareroutine

#170) WE ARE ENDING THIS! Hyperpigmentation Finale!

Wed, 25 Mar 2026 10:00:00 -0700

We are taking a break from hyperpigmentation actives! In this finale, we tie together months of research to help you build the ultimate hyperpigmentation skincare routine.
We rank the actives from our last 10 episodes—including Hydroquinone, Azelaic acid, Arbutin, Glutathione, Thiamodol, Symwhite, etc. —from S-Tier (Gold Standard) to Tier “Meh.” We also filter through the 18 products we tested down to the ones we think should be on your radar and warn you about "Niacinamide Overload."

Timestamps:
0:00 - Intro: Our Hyperpigmentation Journey Recap
1:34 - How to Build a Hyperpigmentation Routine Framework
3:37 - S-Tier Actives: The Most Effective Brightening Ingredients
5:44 - A-Tier: Reliable, Well-Tested Actives for Dark Spots
7:12 - B-Tier: Decent but with some caveats
10:23 - C-Tier & "Meh"
14:17 - Top Product Recommendations: which ones should you actually try?
21:07 - The Niacinamide Math: Avoid Potential Skin Irritation from Overlayering

Product Links
LA ROCHE-POSAY | Mela B3 Dark Spot Serum with Melasyl + Niacinamide: https://go.shopmy.us/p-47880551 (use code: CHEMISTCONFESSIONS10 for 10% off)
EUCERIN | Radiant Tone Dual Serum Dark Spot Corrector: https://go.shopmy.us/p-47881019
ULTA | The Alpha-Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-49134844
ANUA | Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-49134854
PAULA'S CHOICE | 25% Vitamin C + Glutathione Clinical Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-49134896
Numbuzin Glutahione TXA Advanced Dark Spot Ampoule Concentrate: https://go.shopmy.us/p-49134975

Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

#169) Reviewing Resorcinol stuff!

Tue, 17 Mar 2026 10:52:20 -0700

CHECK OUT DOUBLE PLAY!: https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment

We follow up our deep dive into resorcinols by featuring five specific products that highlight these key ingredients for hyperpigmentation!

Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

Follow us: IG: / chemist.confessions INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#168) Resorcinol Part 2!

Thu, 12 Mar 2026 09:31:00 -0700

CHECK OUT DOUBLE PLAY!: https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment

We are wrapping up our hyperpigmentation series by diving into the science of resorcinol and its various derivatives. We explore the history of this "ancient" molecule, its uses in treatments like designer peels and acne prescriptions, and why the industry has shifted toward modern derivatives to avoid skin irritation.

00:21 | Part 2: Continuing our Resorcinol Series
00:35 | What is Hexylresorcinol?
00:49 | Hexylresorcinol vs. 2% Hydroquinone: The Study Breakdown
01:07 | Testing Parameters: 1% Hexylresorcinol Concentration
01:37 | Analyzing the Results: Expert Grading and Data
01:53 | 12-Week Results: Significant Improvements in Pigmentation
02:03 | Comparing Performance to Hydroquinone
25:22 | Major Formulation Challenges with Resorcinols
25:33 | Conclusion and What’s Coming Next

Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

Follow us: IG: / chemist.confessions INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#167) Resorcinol! (But really its cousins)

Tue, 10 Mar 2026 08:00:00 -0700

CHECK OUT DOUBLE PLAY!: https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment

01:28 | What is resorcinol?
01:50 | Resorcinol in acne treatments and designer peels
02:13 | Why is resorcinol used in hair dyes?
02:33 | The shift toward resorcinol derivatives for skin safety
02:54 | EU SCC regulations on resorcinol concentrations
22:30 | Hyperpigmentation serum scenarios and skin discomfort
23:05 | Preview: Hexylresorcinol and Diamond Oil

Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

Follow us: IG: / chemist.confessions INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#166) Reviewing 5 Glutathione Products!

Fri, 27 Feb 2026 08:00:00 -0800

We are back for a follow-up to our glutathione deep dive! We review five specific glutathione-heavy products, four from the K-beauty world and one popular Amazon find, to see if they truly deliver on their antioxidant and brightening claims.

00:00 | Intro: Hashtags & antioxidant claims
00:24 | Welcome back to Chemist Confessions Podcast
00:30 | Glutathione deep dive follow-up
00:56 | Product lineup: 4 K-beauty + 1 Paula’s Choice
02:05 | Price points & supply differences
03:40 | Texture notes: neutral, not hydrating
05:03 | Fragrance issues & masking glutathione scent
06:05 | Stability concerns & 2-week shelf life
07:23 | Paula’s Choice texture & film discussion
08:25 | The infamous “eggy with undertone of death” scent
10:16 | Clinical claims & before/after photos skepticism
12:04 | Niacinamide + tranexamic acid doing the heavy lifting
17:57 | Tulsa Wound serum: 2% glutathione, suspicious photos
21:03 | Abib serum: percentages, encapsulation, and clinical data

Product Shoutout: Double Play Retinol Face and Eye Treatment:
https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment

Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

Follow us: IG: / chemist.confessions INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#165: We are finally talking about this ingredient: GLUTATHIONE!

Thu, 19 Feb 2026 08:00:00 -0800

WE HEARD YOU! We explore the science behind one of the most requested and hyped ingredients skincare sector: glutathione. We break down what this "master antioxidant" actually is.

01:25 | What is Glutathione? Breaking down the tri-peptide
01:54 | Why is it called the "Master Antioxidant"?
02:43 | Mechanisms: Tyrosinase inhibition and skin whitening
03:16 | The Stability Struggle: Why pH and temperature matter
06:18 | Half-life study: How quickly does it degrade in your products?
08:12 | Gold Standard Age Booster: Tactical hyperpigmentation tool
08:40 | Does it actually work? Reviewing topical clinical studies
12:35 | Study Deep Dive: 0.5% GSH vs. placebo on Indonesian women
17:36 | Oxidized Glutathione (GSSG): Is a more stable version better?

Product Shoutout: Double Play Retinol Face and Eye Treatment:
https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment

Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

Follow us: IG: / chemist.confessions INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#164) The Drugstore Level Alpha Arbutin Landscape

Thu, 12 Feb 2026 09:48:44 -0800

We explore the science of skincare as we review five affordable, drugstore-priced arbutin products. In this episode, we break down everything from texture and clinical claims and ingredient lists of popular brands to help you find the right formula for your skin.

TIMESTAMPS:
01:27 | Texture Analysis: Why is Arbutin so Sticky?
03:01 | Texture Face-Off: Oily vs. Dry Skin Reactions
04:48 | Is the Beauty of Joseon Serum a Moisturizer?
06:01 | Chemist Notes: Breaking Down the Cosrx Formula
06:57 | Analyzing Clinical Claims: Inner and Outer Melanin?
09:57 | Instrumental Measurements: Reducing Dark Spots
13:01 | Deep Dive: Beauty of Joseon Ingredients
14:56 | The Truth About "Pregnancy Safe" Marketing
16:25 | The Ordinary & Naturium: Simple Serum Breakdown

Product Shoutout: Double Play Retinol Face and Eye Treatment:
https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment

Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

Follow us: IG: / chemist.confessions INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#163 ) The Science of Arbutin: Does It Actually Clear Dark Spots?

Thu, 05 Feb 2026 07:28:00 -0800

We are diving deep into the science of skincare to explore the role of Arbutin in treating hyperpigmentation. In this human conversation, we break down what exactly Arbutin is, analyze the existing data on its efficacy, and provide a comprehensive guide on what you should consider when shopping for these products.

Product Shoutout: Double Play Retinol Face and Eye Treatment:
https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment

Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

Follow us: IG: / chemist.confessions INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#162 ) Testing 3 Popular K-Beauty Azelaic Acid Serums

Wed, 28 Jan 2026 08:00:00 -0800

In this episode, we take a deep dive into the world of K-beauty azelaic acid products. We explore the science behind three popular contenders—Anua, Purito, and medicube—while decoding their ingredient lists, analyzing clinical testing data, and discussing the tricky chemistry of azelaic acid solubility. We provide a chemist’s perspective on how to choose the right formula for your skincare routine.

00:00 | Introducing K-Beauty Azelaic Acid Contenders
00:02 | The "Ouch" Factor: Testing medicube’s Needle Technology
00:04 | Sensation vs. Science: Do Spicules Improve Penetration?
00:05 | Texture Breakdown: Puridose Oil Droplets vs. Anua Watery Serum
00:08 | Decoding Ingredient Lists: Tea Tree Oil vs. Leaf Water
00:13 | Analyzing Anua’s Clinical Studies for Redness Reduction
00:18 | Is 4-Week Acne Testing Actually Meaningful?
00:23 | Bacterial Exosomes and the Future of Skincare Sourcing
00:29 | Chemist Corner: The Difficulty of Azelaic Acid Solubility
00:32 | Final Verdict: Choosing Suspensions vs. Soluble Formulas

@161) Is Azelaic Acid Better Than Hydroquinone?

Mon, 19 Jan 2026 09:56:35 -0800

This week, we're starting our series on hyperpigmentation answering one of the most common questions many of us will encounter which is, "Is azelaic acid better than hydroquinone for my hyperpigmentation

00:00 | Introduction: 2026 Skincare Kickoff
03:45 | Investigating the PNAS Combination Study
08:12 | Deep Dive: Azelaic Acid vs. Hydroquinone
12:50 | The Challenge of Finding Full Research Papers
18:30 | Patient Compliance: The 16-Week Milestone
22:15 | Why Visual Improvements Take Time
27:00 | Analyzing Study Abstracts vs. Full Data
31:10 | Dual Therapy Overkill: 5% Concentration Discussion
31:50 | Motivation and Routine Consistency for Results

Product Shoutout:
Double Play Retinol
https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment

Enrichment Content:
Chemists’ Guide to Choosing an Exfoliating Toner
https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/how-to-choose-the-right-exfoliating-toner-for-your-skin

Follow us:
IG: / chemist.confessions
INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/
TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast?
Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next

#160) We tested 103 products in 2025

Wed, 26 Nov 2025 10:00:00 -0800

The Chemist Confessions podcast year-end review is here!
We blitz through the 103 skincare products tested in 2025! We reveal our favorite and least favorite categories, discuss surprising finds like Hypochlorite Acid, and give our honest takes on individual products, including the Banana Boat Light as Air Sunscreen and the La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Sunscreen, and of course, Animal Corner!

Timestamps:
00:00 | Welcome to Chemist Confessions Podcast & Year-End Review
01:07 | How Many Skincare Products Did We Test in 2025? (103 products!)
03:55 | Favorite Skincare Product Categories We Tested This Year
07:27 | What is Our Least Favorite Skincare Product Category?
10:07 | Why is K-Beauty C-Fu Dupe Testing Boring?
12:21 | Most Surprising Skincare Category: Cleansing Oils & Hypochlorite Acid
18:11 | Best Product of the Year: Banana Boat Light As Air Sunscreen Review
21:48 | Worst Product of the Year: La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Sunscreen Pill Test
25:54 | Most Surprising Product: What is A0X or 2X Intense?
28:17 | Are Cushion Foundations Good Sunscreens? Tarte Cushion Review

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357

Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

Follow us: IG: / chemist.confessions INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments, and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehacks

#159) Occlusive Balms Head-to-Head! | Chemist Confessions Podcast

Wed, 19 Nov 2025 10:00:00 -0800

We did a product head-to-head comparing occlusive balms, all with a petrolatum base! Following our beef tallow deep dive, we are breaking down the texture, transfer, price, and complex chemist notes of Vaseline, Aquaphor, CeraVe, Prequel, and our own Bon Voyage. Which formula is best for sensitive, compromised, dry, or oily skin, and why a simple formula isn't always best!

00:00 | Welcome to Chemist Confessions Podcast!
00:37 | What is an occlusive balm and why does petrolatum matter?
01:09 | Vaseline vs Aquaphor: Price and ingredient breakdown
03:25 | How does Vaseline’s texture change with application amount?
06:01 | Is Aquaphor better than Vaseline for lips and transfer resistance?
07:55 | Why is CeraVe Healing Ointment less shiny than other balms?
11:31 | How do dry vs oily skin types react to occlusive balms?
14:47 | Why does Vaseline have a drug facts label?
16:07 | Should you avoid complex balm formulas for compromised skin?
23:07 | Are occlusive balms temperature sensitive? Storage tips for warmer climates

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357

Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

Follow us: IG: / chemist.confessions INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#158) Why is BEEF TALLOW in skincare?

Wed, 12 Nov 2025 10:05:16 -0800

This week, we tackle one of the most requested ingredients: Beef Tallow in skincare. We break down the science, compare its characteristics to other popular ingredients like shea butter, and look at the actual topical studies (or lack thereof).

00:00 | What Is Beef Tallow and Why Is It in Skincare?
00:43 | Is Beef Tallow Really Similar to Human Skin Lipids?
02:09 | How Beef Tallow Is Made: The Science Behind the Fat
03:22 | Melting Point Breakdown: Beef Tallow vs Human Sebum
05:47 | How Extraction Methods Affect Skincare Ingredient Quality
09:37 | What Do Saponification and Iodine Values Mean for Skin?
20:25 | Does Beef Tallow Have Any Proven Skin Benefits?
37:18 | What Happened When I Put Beef Tallow on My Face?
40:56 | Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, or Beef Tallow — What’s Best for Dry Skin?

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357

Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

Follow us: IG: / chemist.confessions INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#157) Ceramides in products! | Chemist Confessions Podcast

Mon, 03 Nov 2025 10:00:00 -0800

We dive deep into the complicated science of ceramides (NP, AP, EOP) in your barrier creams, explaining the complex nomenclature and how different ceramide types function in the skin. We compare the ceramide blends found in 10 popular moisturizers and reveal the winning factors to look for when you're shopping: known percentages and clinical testing. Plus, we explore supporting ingredients like Meadowfoam Estolide and Phytosphingosine, giving you a peek behind the curtain of how these popular moisturizers are formulated.

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357

Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

Follow us: IG: / chemist.confessions INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehacks

#156) EAST VS WEST! 10 Barrier Creams Reviewed & Ranked!

Tue, 21 Oct 2025 10:00:00 -0700

We review 10 popular East and West barrier creams from Aestura, Dr. Jart, Dieux, Skinceuticals, La Roche Posay, and more. We break down everything from texture and finish for different skin types to occlusives like petrolatum and dimethicone, humectants like glycerin, and clinical claims. We also look at which creams are best for "suffering" vs. generally healthy skin

00:00 | 10 Barrier Creams: East vs. West Product Lineup
02:44 | How much do Barrier Creams cost? Price Buckets
03:51 | What are the different Barrier Cream textures for dry and oily skin?
09:25 | Moisturizer Residue: How long does the cream's finish last?
16:22 | Pilling Potential: Which barrier creams are prone to pilling?
18:15 | How do chemists evaluate a barrier cream? Key ingredients
18:52 | Heavy-handed vs. Lightweight Occlusives in Barrier Creams
21:20 | Glycerin and Humectants in Barrier Creams: What position matters?
25:38 | Clinical Highlights: Dieux, Dr. Jart, and Aestura claims explained
31:17 | Barrier Cream Recommendations for Suffering vs. Healthy Skin

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357

Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

Follow us: IG: / chemist.confessions INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#155) Sulfur Skincare Product Review | Chemist Confessions Podcast

Mon, 13 Oct 2025 10:00:00 -0700

We put three 10% OTC sulfur products to the test! Kate Somerville, the Ordinary, Vichy, and De La Cruz Lab have four completely different takes on sulfur. The chemists discuss which product is the best to use as an acne spot treat!

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season

*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.

https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Product Shoutout:

The Specialist: https://chemistconfessions.com/products/the-specialist-exfoliating-treatment

Enrichment Content:

EP153: OTC Sulfur for Acne is Kinda Weird!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6cPB2eUtYpY&list=PLldQkxjc7bYnFkUtOw8Y07yCyBnaF4ddx&index=2

From the Blog: The Chemists’ Comprehensive Guide to Acne Pt. 1

https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/the-chemists-comprehensive-guide-to-acne-pt-1

00:00 | Sulfur Products Review: Which 10% Sulfur Acne Treatment is Best?

00:39 | What are the selection criteria for the 4 sulfur products?

01:22 | Price comparison of The Ordinary, Vichy, Kate Somerville, and De La Cruz sulfur products

02:48 | How does a dry-skin representative use a drying sulfur spot treatment?

03:38 | Which sulfur product has a classic drying, high absorption lotion texture?

04:00 | The problem with Kate Somerville's isopropyl alcohol-based drying lotion

06:30 | Ranking sulfur products by "rotten egg smell"—which one smells the most?

08:46 | Chemist Notes: Which oil-absorbing powders are in the sulfur formulas?

11:13 | Which sulfur products contain additional acne actives like Glycolic or Salicylic Acid?

14:11 | Is sulfur a long-term preventative acne ingredient or just a spot treat?

IG: https://www.instagram.com/chemist.con...

INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/

TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast?

Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#154) AD | A Deep Dive Into VT’s Reedle Skincare!

Mon, 06 Oct 2025 10:00:00 -0700

In paid partnership with VT! VT has given us insider access to the R&D behind their viral Reedle Skincare. In thanks to our community’s curiosity, they’ve decided to share the research behind their reedles, what makes them special, and all the testing they’ve done behind this product line. The chemists also share their experience and recommendation using this uniquely prickly but soothing? Kbeauty serum.

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season

*A small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. (Thank you!)

https://shopmy.us/shop/collections/1280514

Enrichment Content:

EP 128: Our Deep Dive into Spicules (Non-paid/non-gifted)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acn8V6-4_Uk&t=61s

EP 129: VT’s Reedle Shot 50 vs. 100 (Non-paid/non-gifted)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-BwdlFYFU0&t=1s

IG: / chemist.confessions

INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/

TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast?

Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#153) The Science Behind Sulfur for Acne & Skincare

Wed, 01 Oct 2025 11:00:00 -0700

We take a deep dive into the science behind Sulfur, a very old and historically prevalent ingredient for acne. We discuss its nonmetal clay origins and characteristic scent, often described as rotten eggs , or like "if a clay farted". The episode covers its classification as an OTC acne ingredient , its proposed catalytic and oil-absorbing mechanisms , and the challenges in its topical formulation, such as particle size. We also look at old-school research, including a study on 10% Sulfur + 4% Niacinamide drying lotion , and offer realistic expectations: Sulfur is best used as a spot treatment for quick fixes, not for long-term overall breakout reduction

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357

Product Shoutout:
Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser
https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

Enrichment Content:
Sunscreen Layering Guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams?
https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

Follow us:
IG: / chemist.confessions
INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/
TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast?
Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#152) MY SKIN IS ANGRY! Now what?

Wed, 17 Sep 2025 01:01:00 -0700

Everyone at some point in their lives will experience skin irritation. From overeager retinoid use to skin deciding to do a complete 180° just because. When skin is angry, troubleshooting your routine can start to feel stressful and overwhelming . The chemists review why skin reacts the way it does and best practices on how to appease unhappy skin and recalibrate back to your original healthy skin.

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*A small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. (Thank you!)
https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Product Shoutout:
Aquafix Soothing Hydrating Serum
https://chemistconfessions.com/products/aquafix-hydrating-water-gel

Enrichment Content:
Navigating Plant Extracts: A Guide
https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/botanicals-a-skincare-ingredient-jungle

EP136: Can You Just Use Water to Cleanse Your Face?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8GDay3OeG7Q

Follow us:
IG: https://www.instagram.com/chemist.confessions/
INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/
TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfessions?lang=en

Skincare questions for the podcast?
Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#151) Hypochlorous Acid Sprays Tested: Tower 28, Prequel & Magic Molecule Review!

Tue, 09 Sep 2025 01:00:00 -0700

We put popular hypochlorous acid sprays to the test! Tower 28, Prequel, and Magic Molecule. Do they live up to the hype for acne, redness, and barrier support? Here’s the chemists’ breakdown.

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.*
[https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514](https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514)

Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.*
[https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357](https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357)

Product Shoutout:
Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser
[https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser](https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser)

Enrichment Content:
Sunscreen Layering Guide
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc)

Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams?
[https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams](https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams)

Follow us:
IG: / chemist.confessions
INTERWEB: [https://chemistconfessions.com/](https://chemistconfessions.com/)
TIKTOK: [https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes](https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes)...

Skincare questions for the podcast?
Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#150) Hypochlorous Acid Explained | Chemist Confessions Podcast

Thu, 28 Aug 2025 01:00:00 -0700

Hypochlorous acid is the trending skincare ingredient for acne, eczema, and irritated skin...... but does it really work?

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

#149) THD Products Texture Discussion | Chemist Confessions Podcast

Tue, 19 Aug 2025 01:00:00 -0700

From $20 drugstore finds to $185 luxury formulas, We break down Vitamin C skincare products, textures, and ingredient lists to help you choose what really works for hyperpigmentation, hydration, and beyond.

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Product Shoutout:
Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

Enrichment Content:
EP144: Is 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid a worthy vitamin C derivative?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9wfbFIUIJg

From the Blog: Which Vitamin C Derivative is Best for My Skin
https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/which-vitamin-c-derivative-is-the-best-for-my-skin

Follow us:
IG: https://www.instagram.com/chemist.confessions/?hl=en
INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/
TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfessions?lang=en

Skincare questions for the podcast?
Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#148) Is THD Ascorbate a worthy Vitamin C derivative?

Wed, 06 Aug 2025 09:58:31 -0700

Is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (aka. THD ascorbate) a more stable, more exciting form of vitamin C, or just another quirky chemical cousin? We unpack the science, separate facts from marketing fluff, and reveal what this ingredient really does for your skin.

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Product Shoutout:
Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

Enrichment Content:
EP144: Is 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid a worthy vitamin C derivative?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9wfbFIUIJg

From the Blog: Which Vitamin C Derivative is Best for My Skin
https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/which-vitamin-c-derivative-is-the-best-for-my-skin

Follow us:
IG: https://www.instagram.com/chemist.confessions/?hl=en
INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/
TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfessions?lang=en

Skincare questions for the podcast?
Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#147) Shopping for Sunscreens in 2025! | Chemist Confessions Podcast

Fri, 25 Jul 2025 01:00:00 -0700

It’s the last sunscreen episode of 2025 (we promise!). The chemists have been mulling over all of the recent sunscreen drama. Ultimately, they’ve decided that the most constructive way to address everyone’s concerns is to walk everyone through how to properly shop for sunscreens in 2025. In this guided tour of sunscreens, they will also address concerns on SPF boosters and even how to process the concerning results published by Choice.

00:20 | Chemist Confessions Podcast: Addressing the Sunscreen Drama
01:00 | How to Shop for Sunscreen
01:49 | Method to Shop for Sunscreen: Addressing Concerns and Finding Confidence
02:29 | Starting Point: Chemical Fluid or Lotion Formulas
03:17 | Asian or EU Sunscreens (Chemical)
05:29 | Why are US Sunscreens Different? (Texture Discussion)
07:41 | When to Choose Mineral Sunscreens (Acne, Irritation, Sensitivity)
08:40 | Mineral Sunscreen Controversy: Are "Mineral" Sunscreens Truly Mineral?
09:58 | Understanding UV Boosters in Sunscreen Formulas
12:01 | Quirky Traits of Mineral Sunscreens: White Cast and Powdery Formulas

30 for 30 Sunscreen Challenge Compiled Summary
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357

Other products discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Product Shoutout:
Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser
https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

Enrichment Content:
Can You Layer Foundation With Sunscreen
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc&t=1356s

Chemists’ Complete Sunscreen Review Guide
https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/how-to-best-use-cleansers

Follow us:
IG: https://www.instagram.com/chemist.confessions/
INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/
TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes…

#146) 100 Days of Double Cleansing

Wed, 16 Jul 2025 16:48:38 -0700

Victoria recently decided to commit to 100 days of double cleansing on her oily, acne-prone skin. In those 100 days, she tests 10 cleansing oils and 10 gel cleansers. They discuss their likes, dislikes, and surprise discoveries amongst these formulas. Ultimately, the chemists’ goal in this experiment is to answer the question, “Should you be double cleansing every day?” Additionally, they hope that in this experiment they can help pinpoint what traits to look for in a good oil cleanser and gel cleanser. Enjoy!

Products Enjoyed in the 100 Days of Double Cleansing Journey

*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.

https://shopmy.us/collections/1942385

Other products discussed this 2025 Podcast Season

https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Product Shoutout:

Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser

https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

Enrichment Content:

Chemists’ Review 5 Kbeauty Cleansing Oils

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3WiF-LYh1no&t=380s

Chemists’ Double Cleansing Guide

https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/how-to-best-use-cleansers

IG: / chemist.confessions

INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/

TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes…

#145) 5 Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Products Compared

Thu, 10 Jul 2025 01:00:00 -0700

In this episode, we put five popular vitamin C serums featuring 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid to the test: Beauty of Joseon Light on Serum, Elf C+E+Feruic Acid Serum, Olay Vitamin C Brightening Serum, Innisfree Green Tean Enzyme Vitamin C, and Numbuz:n 5+. This is a wild category of products. Unlike the CE Ferulic dupes, the range is far and wide in between! From texture critiques (why so sticky, Elf?) to actives breakdown, we decode the labels and share which formulas we’d choose — and which ones barely count as a vitamin C serum at all.

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Product Shoutout:
Mr. Reliable Moisturizer with 3% Ceramide Complex
https://chemistconfessions.com/products/mr-reliable-lightweight-moisturizer

Enrichment Content:
EP144: Is 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid a worthy vitamin C derivative?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9wfbFIUIJg

From the Blog: Which Vitamin C Derivative is Best for My Skin
https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/which-vitamin-c-derivative-is-the-best-for-my-skin

Follow us:
IG: https://www.instagram.com/chemist.confessions/
INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/
TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfessions?lang=en
Skincare questions for the podcast?
Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#144) Is 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid a worthy vitamin C derivative

Wed, 02 Jul 2025 01:00:00 -0700

Is 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid truly a gentler, more stable form of vitamin C, or just a shiny chemical cousin? We unpack the science, separate facts from marketing fluff, and reveal what this ingredient really does for your skin.

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025
a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.

https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357
Product Shoutout:

Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser
https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

Enrichment Content:
Sunscreen Layering Guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams?
https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

Follow us:
IG: / chemist.confessions
INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/
TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...
Skincare questions for the podcast?
Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#143) 30 Sunscreens in 30 Days 2025 Pt.2!

Mon, 23 Jun 2025 19:18:51 -0700

In this extended 30 for 30 finale, we review 30 chemical sunscreens across drugstore, mid-tier, international, and luxury categories. breaking down textures, performance, pilling, greasy finishes, and even surprise standouts like Banana Boat Light as Air. Perfect for anyone struggling to find their next go-to SPF!

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357

Product Shoutout:
Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser
https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

Enrichment Content:
Sunscreen Layering Guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams?
https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

Follow us:
IG: / chemist.confessions
INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/
TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast?
Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#142) 30 for 30 Sunscreen Challenge 2025 Pt.1 - Minerals

Tue, 10 Jun 2025 01:58:00 -0700

We’re back for our third year of the 30 for 30 sunscreen challenge where we test 30 sunscreens in 30 days. In part 1, we discuss the mineral sunscreens. This category is divided into mineral fluids and mineral lotions. We rate them from worst, meh, noteworthy, and best based on their texture and finish. Overall, we’ve found this category to be much improved! Let’s dive into our mineral sunscreen journey!

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season

*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.

https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025

*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.

https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357

Product Shoutout:

Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser

https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

Enrichment Content:

Sunscreen Layering Guide

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc

Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams?

https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams

IG: / chemist.confessions

INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/

TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...

Skincare questions for the podcast?

Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

#141) Can You Layer Foundation with Sunscreen? Chemists’ Sunscreen Application Tips

Fri, 30 May 2025 01:00:00 -0700

One of the top questions we get on sunscreen is - I want to layer foundation with my sunscreen is that okay? What does it mean for the level of sun protection I’m getting? That’s a pretty complex question and thankfully - we have some great studies and recommendations to share.

*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Product Shoutout:
Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser
https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

Enrichment Content:
Do we Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams?
https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams
Chemists’ Ultimate Sunscreen Applicatin Guide
https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/chemists-ultimate-sunscreen-application-guide
Don’t just take it from us - check out other sources like AAD, PCPC, and IBA
https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/sun-protection/shade-clothing-sunscreen/is-sunscreen-safe

Resources Mentioned:

Interactions between different solar UVB/UVA filters contained in
commercial suncreams and consequent loss of UV protection
https://sci-hub.ru/https://link.springer.com/article/10.1039/b606768a

Only one quarter of sunscreens on store shelves are safe and effective, new report says
https://www.cnn.com/2025/05/20/health/2025-safest-sunscreens-wellness

A review of inorganic UV filters zinc oxide and titanium dioxide
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/phpp.12439

Understanding the causes of skincare product pilling
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/srt.13828

Interactions between different solar UVB/UVA filters contained in
commercial suncreams and consequent loss of UV protection
https://sci-hub.ru/https://link.springer.com/article/10.1039/b606768a

#140) 6 CE Ferulic Serum Dupes Put to the Test pt 2!

Wed, 21 May 2025 00:00:00 -0700

Ever since we did round 1 of our CE Ferulic dupe tests, round 2 has been highly requested. This time around, the ascorbic acid serum contenders are: La Roche Posay Pure 12% Vitamin C Serum, Wild Fleur 15% Pure Vitamin C + Xanthophyll - Marigold Brightening Serum, Cerave Vitamin C Serum, Geek & Gorgeous Vitamin C Face Serum, Prequel Lucent C, and Vichy 16% Pure Vitamin C Brightening Serum

We incubated these for 6 weeks, and the results are in. Let’s see which reigned supreme, and which would we skip!

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Product Shoutout:
Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser
https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser

Enrichment Content:
Podcast #139: Water vs. Anhydrous Vitamin C

5 CE Ferulic Dupes put to the Test Pt 1
https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/5-skinceuticals-vitamin-c-dupes-put-to-the-test

Product Tested:
Vichy LiftActiv Brightening (15% Vitamin C) - $34.99 :
https://www.vichyusa.com/skin-care/skin-care-product-type/face-serum/liftactiv-vitamin-c-serum-vitamincserum.html
CeraVe (10% Vitamin C) - $23.99 :
https://www.cerave.com/skincare/facial-serums/skin-renewing-vitamin-c-serum
Prequel Lucent C Brightening Vitamin C (15%) - $23 :
https://prequelskin.com/products/lucent-c-vitamin-c-serum
Geek & Gorgeous C-Glow (15% Vitamin C) - $13.90 :
https://geekandgorgeous.us/products/c-glow
Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop (5% Vitamin C) - $23 :
https://sokoglam.com/products/klairs-freshly-juiced-vitamin-c
Wildfleur Pure Vitamin C 15% + Marigold Brightening - $26 :
https://www.ulta.com/p/pure-vitamin-c-15-marigold-brightening-serum-pimprod2050101
La Roche-Posay 12% Pure Vitamin C - $46.99 :
https://www.laroche-posay.us/our-products/face/face-serum/vitamin-c12-serum-3337875660570.html

#139) Which Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) Serum is Better? Water or Anhydrous?

Tue, 13 May 2025 01:00:00 -0700

Vitamin C, ascorbic acid, is famously known as the only rigorously tested antioxidant for age prevention. Yet this active is also notoriously known for its quirky characteristics in the classic CE Ferulic serum format. This unstable hot dog water has often generated concerns for using it long term. In this episode, the chemists discuss ascorbic acid’s stability and compare vitamin C in water-based formulas vs. anhydrous formulas to see if there’s a better format for this finicky active.

Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514

Product Shoutout:
Aquafix Hydrating Water Gel
https://chemistconfessions.com/products/aquafix-hydrating-water-gel

Enrichment Content:
Podcast Ep - Which Vitamin C Derivative is Better?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b96PX4L6hsQ&t=82s

Results of our CE Ferulic Dupe Test - Pt. 1
https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/5-skinceuticals-vitamin-c-dupes-put-to-the-test

Resources Mentioned:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34986505/
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1226086X17304422
https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/9/4/74
https://www.martiderm.com/int-en/product/vitamin-c-antiox
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.14837
https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/scientists-taught-pet-parrots-to-video-call-each-other-and-the-birds-loved-it-180982041/
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00473.x

#138) Sunscreen Update 2025 - Drama, Tariffs, and Some Science Share

Tue, 06 May 2025 18:26:31 -0700

It’s finally getting warmer and this means that we’ve already started testing our 2025 #30for30SunscreenChallenge tests! So this feels like a great time to do a special sunscreen news roundup episode. In this episode, we discuss why you can’t buy Asian sunscreen formulas as easily anymore, what tariffs might mean for the sunscreen landscape, and interesting studies on sunscreen application. Oh! And in case you’re curious, we also cover all the factors the UV index considers to help you make an informed decision on your sun protection of the day.

#137: 5 KBeauty Cleansing Oils H2H

Tue, 29 Apr 2025 06:00:00 -0700

In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following our cleanser science episode, we tested 5 of the topselling Kbeauty cleansing oils so you don’t have to, which include: Skin1004, Beauty of Joseon, Anua, Ma:Nyo, and Haru Haru. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective.

#136: Can You Just Use Water to Cleanse Your Face?

Mon, 28 Apr 2025 06:00:00 -0700

On the topic of cleansers, a lot of the questions the chemists get are about the cleansing routine. One of the common questions is, “Can you just use water to cleanser your face?” The great thing is, this scenario has actually been tested (which is very rare). The chemists discuss the findings and what things to consider if you happen to be using just water to rinse your face. An unusual deep dive, but hopefully interesting and satisfying for those who’ve ever wondered.

#135: 4 Affordable Drugstore Moisturizers H2H

Tue, 15 Apr 2025 06:00:00 -0700

In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the ceramide deep dive, the chemists review 4 of the most popular drugstore moisturizers so you don’t have to, which include: Vanicream, CeraVe, Cetaphil, and La Roche Posay Lipikar. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective.

#134: Which Ceramide is the Best For Your Skin?

Mon, 14 Apr 2025 06:00:00 -0700

The chemists are going down the ceramides rabbit hole again because many of you have asked, “Which ceramide is best?” The chemists explain the different types of ceramides and what the research says on which one you should be targeting in your skincare.

#133: Prequel & Inkey's Ectoin Product H2H

Thu, 10 Apr 2025 06:00:00 -0700

In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the ectoin deep dive, the chemists review two ectoin products so you don’t have to. Products were chosen to showcase the diverse landscape of ectoin skicnare. This episode was recorded before the launch of Prequel’s latest Ectoin cream. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective.

#132: Should you use ectoin in your routine?

Wed, 26 Mar 2025 09:59:33 -0700

Many of you asked about ectoin so the chemists went down the research rabbit hole. Ectoin is a new kid on the block with some surprising data in the skin barrier and hydration realm. The chemists talk about what it is, what it does for skin, and whether or not it’s better than niacinamide.

#131: 5 K-Beauty Toner Pads H2H

Tue, 18 Mar 2025 13:00:00 -0700

In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the pore care deep dive, the chemists review five toner pad products so you don’t have to. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective.

#130: Can You Shrink Pores with Skincare?

Tue, 11 Mar 2025 10:23:09 -0700

When strategizing how to tackle pores, the science is about as random as the skincare landscape. The chemists tackle the biology, the ingredients, and the skincare to try to make sense of what steps can actually make a meaningful difference to help reduce pore size. Can “glass”, “egg”, poreless skin actually achievable?

#129: Spicule Product H2H VT Reedle Shot 50 vs 100

Tue, 04 Mar 2025 04:00:00 -0800

In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the spicules deep dive, the chemists review the top two spicule (reedle) skincare products so you don’t have to. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspectives.

#128: Is spicules worth trying in skincare?

Fri, 28 Feb 2025 17:50:15 -0800

Continuing our journey of diving into exciting, trendy new ingredients, this week, the chemists take a closer look at all the science behind spicule skincare. Though these prickly bits derived from marine sponges definitely have some interesting data, we still have more questions on how to best use spicules… Let’s jump in the rabbit hole!

#127: PDRN Products H2H Decode - Medicube vs VT

Tue, 18 Feb 2025 09:55:11 -0800

In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the PDRN deep dive, the chemists review the top two PDRN skincare products so you don’t have to. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective.

#126: Should You Use PDRN Skincare?

Tue, 11 Feb 2025 11:04:12 -0800

One of the most popular requests for us to decode is PDRN. Kbeauty continues to be at the center of trendy and exotic “new” skincare. This week, the chemists’ dive into PDRN, fragmented DNA derived from salmon sperm? They discuss what it is, how it ended up in our skincare, and if there’s any substantial evidence of PDRN’s benefits for skin. Let’s go down the rabbit hole!

#125: How to Decode Your Skincare Like a Chemist?

Wed, 05 Feb 2025 09:39:42 -0800

We’re kicking off the 2025 podcast season with a twist. With all of our new listeners and viewers, it’s time to brush up on the fundamentals of who exactly the chemists are, how we analyze the science, and just what sort of decoding you can do to assess your skincare like an expert! Think of this as a primer into all the deep dives we’ll be getting into and an episode dedicated to getting to know us and how our brains work on a deeper level. Enjoy!

#124: The Best Skin Science Moments of 2024

Mon, 23 Dec 2024 12:15:02 -0800

It’s the last episode of 2024! Reflecting back on the year, we’re discussing top skincare science and animal fun facts. We also share our plans for the new year. The podcast has truly built an incredible community and we are so grateful to you all. Happy Holidays and we'll see you in 2025.

#123: Estriol & Estradiol Skincare - Do They Work?

Tue, 17 Dec 2024 09:32:48 -0800

As a follow-up on last week’s episode on skincare for certain age groups, this week, let’s dive into estrogen-based skincare, in particular creams with estradiol or estriol. This prescription skincare realm aimed to treat peri and post-menopausal skin issues like irritation, redness, and dryness. So! Do they work? Are there other benefits beyond skin barrier care?

#122: Skincare Tips by Age Group: Teens, 20s, 30s, 40s, and 50+

Thu, 12 Dec 2024 09:32:21 -0800

We all know that skin changes with father time, but how should you best skincare for your specific age? We discuss the science, what major timepoints to consider and what skincare you should be using in your teens, 20s, 30-40s, and 50s+.

#121: Neck care! Can topical neck creams help with … well.. anything?

Mon, 09 Dec 2024 03:00:00 -0800

Neck aging can be so difficult to address because of its complex biology. But can topicals do anything to help? Let’s take a closer look at 3 neck cream clincals done by Replenix, Skinceuticals, and Revision skincare to see if you really need a dedicated product just for your neck area.

#120: Skincare Holiday Gifting Guide

Mon, 25 Nov 2024 05:00:00 -0800

The holiday season is just looming around the corner. So whether you’re taking advantage of the discounts for yourself, or on the market for loved ones, here are some of thoughts on on the beauty holiday deals. Join us for some shopping inspirations or just some laughs!

#119: Which SPF Lip Balm is Best?

Mon, 04 Nov 2024 05:00:00 -0800

After a nice break from sunscreens, we had some time to dabble in lip SPF products. It turns out our lip skin actually has a lot less natural protection from both sun and dryness than the rest of our body. Thus, it only makes sense that having a good lip SPF (or two) is important to have handy. We tried 12 lip SPFS of various types and various price points and share all of our findings! The taste of some of these left quite a lasting impression.

#118: Are Peptides in Skincare Worth It?

Tue, 29 Oct 2024 10:34:03 -0700

Today we’re going to attempt to tackle the vast landscape of peptides! It’s a big topic but sadly without a lot of clarity. So let’s nerd out with us on just what peptides are, how they work on skin, what skin concerns they’re good for, and decode a few top peptide products.

#117: Hydroquinone and Some Comparison Actives

Tue, 22 Oct 2024 06:00:00 -0700

After listening to this podcast long enough, you’ll probably get a sense that good testing data is sparse so we inevitably have to work with what we have! With the recent US ban of OTC hydroquinone products, it's worth noting that a notable few actives have done testing in direct comparison to hydroquinone. Though more testing is always needed, direct comparison studies are considered rare and top-tier in our books. In this episode, let’s review why hydroquinone is so prolific and discuss actives that have actually been tested in direct comparison to hydroquinone.

#116: Is Arbutin A Good Hydroquinone Alternative?

Mon, 14 Oct 2024 07:32:18 -0700

This is a bit overdue! Arbutin is a hyperpigmentation active with a reputation as a hydroquinone alternative. So today we’re tackling all the major questions around arbutin: Does it convert to hydroquinone on skin? Is it even a good hyperpigmentation active?

#115: Can You Actually Treat Dark Circles With Skincare?

Mon, 30 Sep 2024 06:00:00 -0700

It’s time for another wet blanket type episode - dark circles Just why are dark circles so hard to deal with? Do eye creams even work? We go through the data and discuss what you can actually do to treat this stubborn and complex skin concern.

#114: What's the Deal With Exosomes in Skincare?

Tue, 24 Sep 2024 11:54:58 -0700

We’ve put it off for long enough, today we’re jumping into the very new, very hot realm of exosomes. These vesicle structures are getting a lot of attention because they’ve been tied to: stem cells, growth factors, fibroblasts…essentially all the juicy anti-aging good stuff. In this episode, the chemists attempt to make sense of exosomes’ true purpose in skincare, share what benefits they can bring, and explain the current exosome landscape. Strap in because we get pretty nerdy here, but hopefully this episode gives you a good idea of “hot tech” and how it evolves in the skincare world.

#113: Do Acne Patches Work?

Mon, 16 Sep 2024 06:00:00 -0700

We're wrapping up our acne series with a deep dive on acne patches. These face stickers often get tied to some pretty enticing claims like absorbing excess sebum and rapidly healing pimples. We discuss the science behind these mystical patches, what they actually do to acne lesions, and what are their real benefits. Finally, we end on our experiences trying 5 different acne patches on the market. Enjoy!

#112: Does Any of the Plant Stuff Work for Acne?

Mon, 09 Sep 2024 06:00:00 -0700

Continuing our acne series, we’ve been able to delve into some solid actives with pretty juicy data behind it, but there are quite a few less validated ingredients that are pretty popular and worth a look. In this episode, we look at succinic acid, mugwort, witch hazel, and tea tree oil. Four popular plant-ish actives that have gained some traction as magical home remedies for acne breakouts. Let’s see if the data holds up shall we?

#111: How Much Benzoyl Peroxide Should You Actually Be Using?

Mon, 26 Aug 2024 10:37:00 -0700

When it comes to fighting acne, benzoyl peroxide has been around for so long it almost seems like it’s old-fashioned. However, because of its long history, BPO has a lot of great data and of the ingredients out there we actually have a very good understanding how it works to reduce breakouts. But are we actually using the right concentration? We dive into the research and discuss what concentrations we should all be trying to target and why.

#110: Is salicylic acid a MUST in your acne routine?

Mon, 19 Aug 2024 06:00:00 -0700

Salicylic acid is probably the most common active ingredient you’ll run into when putting together your acne routine. But is it actually a must have? What kind of acne can it actually treat? In this episode, we dive into a few key clinical studies that look at just what 2% salicylic acid really bring to your routine.

#109: Are Collagen Supplements a Scam?

Mon, 12 Aug 2024 06:00:00 -0700

One of the more popular questions we get is about collagen supplements and whether or not it’s a scam. We’d be lying if we said we haven’t been avoiding this one, but no longer! In this episode, we go through the clinical data. We discuss why it’s so hard to shop for good collagen supplements. Finally, we list our shopping tips and things to consider if you’re thinking of adding this to your beauty routine.

#108: The Best of 30 for 30 Sunscreen Challenge Pt. 2

Mon, 05 Aug 2024 06:00:00 -0700

After testing 30 sunscreens in 30 days, we’re finally going through our favorites! There was so much to discuss that this ended up turning into a 2 part segment. In part 2, we talked about our thoughts on baby sunscreens, international sunscreens, things we’d do differently in the future, and… pangolins? Let’s wrap the sunscreen series!

#107: The Best of 30 for 30 Sunscreen Challenge Pt. 1

Mon, 29 Jul 2024 06:00:00 -0700

After testing 30 sunscreens in 30 days, we’re finally going through our favorites! There was so much to discuss that this ended up turning into a 2 part segment. In part 1, we discuss what factored into our ratings and why. We then go through our “0 star” ratings and why they were so painful. Finally, we discuss our favorites for the mineral and tinted category! Hope you enjoy as we tell all in our journey to trialing another 30 sunscreens for 2024.

#106: Should You Stop Using Glycolic Acid in the Summer?

Mon, 22 Jul 2024 06:00:00 -0700

You probably hear us often championing glycolic acid as the gold standard of exfoliation and a main active to consider having in your routine. However, AHAs are known to cause photosensitivity. Does that means we shouldn’t use glycolic acid during summer months during higher chances of sun exposure? We discuss the data, what skin types should and shouldn’t use glycolic acid, and how to best use this ingredient during summer.

#105: Which Toners Should You Use?

Mon, 15 Jul 2024 06:00:00 -0700

This week we’re taking a break from skincare ingredients, and we’re talking about products. Specifically, toners! Toners will forever be a land of mystery. This category seems to always ends up in the spotlight, there are too many to choose from, and the claims can be all over the place. We decided to break down the product landscape, discuss some of the most popular toners of 2024, and weigh in on which toners we would want to use in our routine. It’s toner time!

#104: Does Tranexamic Acid Have Any Benefits for Skin?

Mon, 08 Jul 2024 06:00:00 -0700

When tranexamic acid started gaining popularity a few years back, it felt similar to CBD. Suddenly it seemed like every brand was using it, but there didn’t seem to be a lot of data shared on its effectiveness. In this episode, the chemists share the benefits that tranexamic acid can bring to skin, go through the testing (if any), and discuss whether or not it’s a worthy addition to your skincare routine.

#103: Should You Be Using the Azelaic Acid Derivative Instead?

Mon, 01 Jul 2024 06:00:00 -0700

Because of the limitations of azelaic acid, it only makes sense that azelaic acid derviative, potassium azeloyl diglycinate is on the rise! We dive into whether or not this is a good replacement for azelaic acid, what are its actual benefits, and how to use PAD in your skincare routine!

#102: Does 10% Azelaic Acid Do Anything for Skin?

Mon, 17 Jun 2024 06:00:00 -0700

The chemists don’t talk about this ingredient as much as they probably should but azelaic acid has a solid amount of data behind it…at the prescription level 15-20% concentration. Naturally, you have to wonder if the 10% azelaic acid products you can purchase as a cosmetic would actually do anything for skin? They dissect the benefits of azelaic acid, discuss the formulation challenges behind this active, and ultimately how they would use a 10% azelaic acid product in their routine.

#101: Do You Need an Oil Cleanser to Remove Sunscreen? A Sunscreen Update!

Mon, 10 Jun 2024 11:12:10 -0700

The chemists are gearing up for their 30 for 30 sunscreen challenge test! So naturally this is a great time to check up on some of the latest studies on sunscreens. We cover a large survey study on people’s sunscreen application habits (spoiler alert: it’s not great), an oil based vs water based cleanser study on sunscreen removal, a new J&J SPF50 vs SPF100 study, and an update on the ongoing studies on sunscreen’s impact on coral reef.

#100: The 100th Celebration! Chemists' (true) Confessions

Mon, 03 Jun 2024 06:00:00 -0700

We’ve reached the 100th Episode! This week we’re going down memory lane ranking our top 5 podcast moments and our favorite skincare science. We also decide to reveal some true chemist “confessions”. We share what popular ingredients we might not be fully on board with and even what skincare steps we forget. Time for some fun!

#99: Plant Stuff That Should Be On Your Radar

Mon, 27 May 2024 06:00:00 -0700

We’re back in the realm of plant extracts in skincare! This is a realm where real clinical data is quite sparse. So even simple questions like “does this extract work?” can be difficult to answer. In this episode, we discuss 3 plant ingredients with just enough interesting testing data for us to say “this is worth trying”.

#98: Does Petrolatum Clog Pores

Mon, 13 May 2024 06:00:00 -0700

Journeying into the more controversial ingredients, we first have to talk about petrolatum. One common question that we haven’t answered yet is, “Will petrolatum clog my pores?” There’s a surprising amount of data to discuss on this subject and after, we share best practices on using petrolatum in your skincare routine.

#97: How Does Gluconolactone Compare to AHAs?

Mon, 06 May 2024 06:00:00 -0700

Taking a break from plant stuff and antioxidants, let’s talk about the newer exfoliator on the block, gluconolactone. Uniquely, gluconolactone has been tied to many skin benefits, being called hydrating, brightening, exfoliating, to maybe even…acne fighting? Ultimately we dissect the data to discuss what exactly gluconolactone does for skin and how it compares to the classic AHAs. Tune in to learn if gluconolactone deserves a place in your routine and how to best shop for this category!

#96: What Actives Can You Layer With Vitamin C?

Mon, 29 Apr 2024 06:00:00 -0700

In this episode, we’re continuing our Vitamin C series and are focusing on actives layering. Most of the questions we get are on whether or not you can layer certain actives with the very fussy ascorbic acid. We first review guidelines on the concept of layering, go through any evidence on ascorbic acid layering combinations, and finally discuss which pairings you should and shouldn’t worry about.

#95: How Good is Vitamin C For Hyperpigmentation Really?

Mon, 22 Apr 2024 06:00:00 -0700

We’ve dedicated many episodes to Vitamin C, but there’s still more to cover! Recently, there have been a lot of Vitamin C launches and they are specifically for tackling hyperpigmentation. What makes this arena slightly confusing is that many of these products use Vitamin C derivatives. But, how helpful is Vitamin C in helping to tackle this very stubborn skin concern? And which Vitamin C molecule is best? We discuss all this and more. It’s time to go down the rabbit hole again!

#94: Is Resveratrol Better Than Vitamin C?

Mon, 15 Apr 2024 06:00:00 -0700

We’ve encountered many skincare users who have discovered that the Vitamin C realm is just not their cup of tea and neither is it for their skin. Enter resveratrol! We discuss what resveratrol is, its antioxidant capabilities, and why despite the amount of data, we consider this a solid option as a non-Vitamin C antioxidant replacement. You’ve been warned, we get nerdy here, but lets go down the rabbit hole shall we?

#93: What Benefits Does Kojic Acid Have For Skin?

Mon, 08 Apr 2024 06:00:00 -0700

There’s a lot of rice-based ingredients and rice-adjacent ingredients in skincare. They can span from functional ingredients such as waxes and thickeners to exotic actives like the very famous Pitera. Amongst all of these ingredients, there’s one isolated active compound that we believe deserves some attention and that is kojic acid. This ingredient is a byproduct of the sake fermentation process and happens to have some solid data as a hyperpigmentation-fighting active. So let’s dive in!

#92: What Does Centella Asiatica Actually Do For Skin?

Mon, 01 Apr 2024 06:00:00 -0700

Centella Asiatica (aka cica) has continued to reign as a trendy plant-based active. For good reason! With origins as a wound healing ingredient, the research behind centella asiatica as a skincare ingredient has really grown. We go through the research update and talk about its benefits as a skin soother and possible anti-aging ingredient. Finally, we walk through how to shop for centella asiatica and ultimately how to hunt for the good stuff: madecassoside & asiaticoside.

#91: If There's Glycolic & Lactic Acid, Why Should We Use Mandelic Acid?

Mon, 25 Mar 2024 06:00:00 -0700

In the world of AHAs, mandelic acid feels like that forgotten child. We always talk about the golden child, glycolic acid, as well as the more gentle exfoliator, lactic acid. So when would a person need mandelic acid in their life? We go through the data and discuss who it’s good for, how much you should be using, and how to shop for this unique AHA.

#90: Why is Ginseng in Skincare?

Mon, 18 Mar 2024 06:00:00 -0700

Ginseng is definitely one of those alluring, almost magical ingredients that not only gets touted as a cure-all but almost as a skin cure-all as well. This root has been linked to a wide array of skincare benefits such as being an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging. But is there any merit to these claims? We discuss the science and just how helpful ginseng can be to your skincare routine.

#89: Can You Have Too Much Niacinamide?

Mon, 11 Mar 2024 06:00:00 -0700

Niacinamide is EVERYWHERE in the skincare world, but for good reasons. It’s a jack-of-all-trades type of molecule that has actual clinical evidence that ranges from improving skin barrier function, reducing sebum production, to brightening hyperpigmentation. But in recent years products now have way more niacinamide than ever before. So let's review some of niacinamide’s most famous clinical tests and answer the question “is there such thing as too much niacinamide?”

#88: Can Urea Replace Your AHAs?

Mon, 04 Mar 2024 05:00:00 -0800

Urea has surprisingly been creeping up the ranks in skincare ingredient awareness. This oldie but a goodie has actually been looked at for some time and been compared to some of the greats like glycerin. Uniquely, urea at lower percentages serves as a hydration ingredient but at higher concentrations acts as a keratolytic similar to AHAs. So you have to wonder, can urea replace our AHAs?

#87: Is Glycerin the BEST humectant hydrator out there?

Sat, 24 Feb 2024 05:00:00 -0800

Glycerin is probably one of the first ingredients that chemists learn to work with in formulation. In fact, we happen to call this the Frank’s Red Hot of skincare because the industry really puts that sh** in everything! But despite its economical, functional status, this ingredient has really risen in the ranks in terms of trendy ingredients! In this episode, we review glycerin’s benefits and discuss whether or not glycerin deserves the title of best hydrating ingredient in skincare.

#86: Are Ceramides Only For Compromised Skin Barriers?

Tue, 20 Feb 2024 05:00:00 -0800

It’s great to see awareness grow around maintaining skin barrier health. In caring for your skin barrier, ceramides would probably be the first ingredient that would be suggested. However, there are a lot of questions on who and what skin types should be using ceramides. Based on the data, are ceramides only good for those with compromised skin barriers? We dive into the research to see what the data says and how to use ceramide in your routine for your skin scenario!

#85: Is Hyaluronic Acid a MUST in Your Skincare Routine?

Mon, 12 Feb 2024 05:00:00 -0800

Hyaluronic Acid has consistently been a trendy ingredient in skincare for better or worse. There’s so much confusion with this ingredient because it’s been touted as a miracle anti-aging ingredient but also gets flagged as a potential irritant that may even cause skin dehydration. Not to fear! In this episode, we go through the science, and talk about when and how to incorporate hyaluronic acid in your routine.

#84: Is Bakuchiol Better Than Retinol?

Mon, 05 Feb 2024 05:00:00 -0800

Bakuchiol was put on the map as soon as results came out that bakuchiol seemingly performed on par with retinol in treating anti-aging concerns. But does this hold true? The chemists’ review what bakuchiol even is, the actual study that made this ingredient famous, and discuss who would benefit from using this ingredient! Let’s talk babchi stuff!

#83:Is Retinal Better Than Retinol?

Mon, 29 Jan 2024 05:00:00 -0800

Retinal (aka retinaldehyde) is definitely a hot ingredient in skincare right now! You might have heard that retinal is more potent than retinol because it only needs one step to convert into retinoic acid vs. retinol’s two. But is retinal truly better than retinol? We go through the data and give you the inside scoop on the state of retinal skincare!

#82: Can You Use Retinol During the Daytime?

Tue, 23 Jan 2024 05:00:00 -0800

We talk about retinol a lot. That’s because it’s the most popular retinoid that can be used in cosmetics. Most are well aware of the anti-aging and hyperpigmentation benefits but there are still a lot of questions on how to properly use retinol. In fact, one of the most common questions we get is, “Can I use retinol in the daytime? Does the sun destabilize retinol and thus what I’ve applied on my face is now useless?” Let’s dive into the science!

#81: Can Adapalene be Used for Anti-Aging?

Mon, 15 Jan 2024 05:00:00 -0800

Adapalene is the one retinoid that’s available to us as an over the counter topical for acne. This third generation retinoid has become a popular alternative to tretinoin and for good reason! It’s found to be more stable and has less irritation. So naturally, you’re probably wondering…if tretinoin is great for anti-aging, can adapalene work too?

#80: Using Tretinoin Long-Term Bad for Skin?

Mon, 08 Jan 2024 05:00:00 -0800

A New Year! A New Theme! 2024 is all about skincare ingredients and in this episode, we’re focusing on the OG of retinoids, tretinoin. We review what it is, why it’s so prevalent, and answer one of the most common questions we get on this ingredient: Is using tretinoin long-term bad for skin?

The 2023 Wrap-Up | CC Podcast S4E36

Mon, 11 Dec 2023 05:00:00 -0800

It’s the last episode of the 2023! It’s time to lookback on all the skincare science we discussed, all the animals we shared, all the skincare goodness (and craziness) that happened this year. It’s been a great year and we can’t wait for what’s in store for 2024! Happy Holidays!

Gifting Skincare | CC Podcast S4E35

Mon, 04 Dec 2023 05:00:00 -0800

How is it already end of year?! Well it’s gifting season again, so let’s go through skincare gifting! We decode gift sets, what might be worth it and what we would pass on. We also discuss skincare we would gift as well as skincare we would want gifted to us! TIme to get into the Christmas spirit!

Acne Scars - What works and What to Expect | CC Podcast E4 S34

Mon, 13 Nov 2023 07:57:56 -0800

We’ve talked a lot about tackling your active breakouts, but what about post acne marks & scars? They can seem so frustratingly persistent. But the good news is, things that tackle your breakouts like tretinoin and adapalene can also help tackle the healing phase to minimize acne scarring. Another active ingredient that can be helpful is glycolic acid… butttt that comes with a lot of caveats. So let’s dive into the science of post acne care!